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DPS

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    Elevation and stoves

    in Climber's Board

    Posted · Edited by danielpatricksmith

    In cold temperatures the isobutane canisters will burn the butane first and then the propane,

     

    Not to pick nits but isobutane is NOT a mix of butane and propane. Isobutane is a branched isomer of butane, both having the same chemical formula. This molecular structure allows it to volatilize at lower temperatures than regular butane.

     

    To answer the original question we should look to Boyle's Law which states (and I paraphrase here) that the vapor point is based on temperature and atmospheric pressure. The higher the altitude (lower pressure) the colder it can be and still have the fuel volatilize. Isobutane may not volatilize at 0 F at sea level, but volatilize at 0 F at 20,000 ft. In short, it has everything to due with elevation and temperature.

     

    As someone mentioned previously, there are some tricks to getting a cansister stove to work in the cold. The simplest and most effective is to use a foil wind screen. This will deflect enough heat onto the canister to keep it running. Sleep with the cansister to keep it warm for the morning too.

     

    In practical terms, however, I think AlpineK nailed it on the head. In summer I bring a canister stove, in winter and Alaska I bring a liquid fuel stove.

     

     

    Snoqualmie

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    You should see them on your right, below the E face of the Chair. The ice is totally not in condition right.

     

    The 'Rap Wall' is not below the E face of Chair. It is below Bryant Peak, I believe. Otherwise your directions were right on.

    Reminder-Don't Call it "Infinite Bliss" anymore

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss.

     

    I'll call it any damn thing I like includings Dan Smith's route if I like it.

    [TR] Cascade Peak- South Side via C-J Col 12/22/2004

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    Climb: Cascade Peak-South Side via C-J Col

     

    Date of Climb: 12/22/2004

     

    Trip Report:

    mtnfreak and I attempted Cascade Peak on Wednesday via the C-J Couloir and south chimeny. We believed this would have been the first winter ascent of the peak.

     

    The C-J couloir had deep snow and avalance debris in it. We mostly post holed our way up, sometimes to our waist. Once above the Sill Glacier at 6,000 ft we realized we were moving too slowly to summit and descend before dark. The snow above this point was quite deep,unconsolidated, and had not yet slid. (On a 30 degree slope no less, yikes!) Due to our slow progress in the deep snow and the avalanche hazard, we descended.

     

    The folks coming up today should have nice steps up to this point. Good luck to them. Its a cool looking climb, regardless of it being winter or not.

     

    We noted some cool multi-pitch water falls starting to form in the area. If we get a cold snap this would be a great, low effort area for ice climbing.

     

    Gear Notes:

    Crampons, ice axe. Brought a rope and rack, did not use it. Shoulda had less sense, more gumption.

     

    Approach Notes:

    Drive to Eldo Creek was cake, a little snow on the ground

    Best Belay Jacket?

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    The best belay parka is the one having the most fun. While I love my Wild Things Belay Parka, it mostly sits in the closet not having much fun. It comes out only once in a blue moon for very cold trips like Rainier in winter or Alaska.

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