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DPS

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Posts posted by DPS

    May I see your papers?

    in Spray

    Posted

    Seems to me that showing your ID to prove that you are the owner of the ticket is a reasonable request of the airlines. Occasionally I am asked for my ID when I use my credit card, seems like the same issue.

    Q's on Sept. Rainier ascent

    in Mount Rainier NP

    Posted

    Tie in short to a 50m to facilitate crevasse rescue

     

    30 meters is plenty

     

    At least an ice screw each.

     

    And a picket, prusiks, pulley and most importantly the knowledge to use it

     

    Ice axe each, maybe one hammer. It's a dillema, maybe a straight black prophet and bring a hammer head for it.

     

    Ice axe, it would suck to be bent over an ice tool. One can use the top of an axe to pound pickets.

     

    Prefer plastics but one step down would work. The key is to have bullet proof crampons. People have died on Rainier because of faulty/dull crampons. You go up in OK conditions and then the thing freezes hard once you're up, even the easy routes can become treacherous. Would never go on Rainier without an insulating jacket, prefer man made fibre. And wind jacket and zip wind pants.

    I agree

    You've been to 12,000' on Baker but remember it's that extra couple thousand feet that's a kicker on Rainier from an aerobics and weather standpoint.

     

    Baker is only 10,778

     

    Sept is getting colder, the air is thinner.

     

    The air is not any thinner in September.

    M-16 rifles

    in Spray

    Posted

    The M-16 fires a light, high velocity .223 slug that is designed to tumble through the body and break apart into bits of lead and copper. It would suck to get hit by one IMHO.

     

    Early complaints of the M-16 involved problems with them jamming during combat use. This problem was solved by chroming the breach.

    Mount Stuart Rescue????

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    VW4EVER and myself climbed N Ridge of Stuart in a day on Saturday. We passed the party of four. The party of four was climbing as two separate ropes with one rope considerably faster than the other. The faster rope topped out shortly after us. The other two (one fellow is the father of a hotshot local climber) ended up biving below the gendarme. (I know this because the party of four had radios and were in contact with each other.)

     

    We met another party who had ascended the West Ridge. The six of us joined together to make the descent. After some false starts and a partial descent of Ulrichs (it was a white out with cold rain and wind) we managed to find the Cascadian and descend. I was a little worried about the folks still up on the ridge, it was a horrible night to be out.

    Forbidden West Ridge car-to-car time?

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    I did the full North Ridge car to car in 14 hours, and that time includes getting lost on the way in because of the avalanche debris, and a minor epic in the West Ridge gulley on the descent.

     

    The West ridge approach is shorter and the climb itself is much shorter. So I think 8-10 is pretty reasonable.

    Fisher Chimneys

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    From the Sulphide you get outrageous views of the Pickets. Really remarkable. Having done both Fisher Chimneys and the Sulphide I can say the Sulphide is in every way less strenuous, and that my friend, is a money back guarantee.

    Fisher Chimneys

    in North Cascades

    Posted · Edited by danielpatricksmith

    Fisher Chimneys is not a difficult route, but requires a certain level of confidence in rock and ice climbing as well as good route finding skills. I did not find Fisher's Chimmeys to be significantly easier than the North Face.

     

    I have seen more than one party belay pitches in the chimneys and on Winnie's slide and the ramp gaining the Curtis glacier. A inexperienced climber may also wish for a belay on the summit pyramid.

     

    If your friends have never rock climbed or done any kind of ice axe work, the Sulphide may make more sense. The Sulphide is more scenic, has easier route finding and still offers the rock climbing on the summit pyramid.

     

    The Fisher Chimneys route may start at a higher altitude, but you promptly drop 1,000 feet which has to be regained at Lake Ann and also regained when you are most tired, right before the car. The Sulphide is much less strenuous.

    Sherman Peak???

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    I did Boulder Glacier two weeks ago and I don't think there is anyway to climb Sherman peak without crossing a glacier. Maybe I am wrong. The Boulder/Park Cleaver is very mellow and crevasse free (and not really a glacier if you stay on the cleaver) until about 9,000 feet or so. The rock on Baker is typical vocanic choss. I would not intentionally climb on it.

     

    Consider climbing Mt Shuksan via the Sulphide Glacier. Yes, it is the glacier but is very tame and would be ideal for a first time glacier plus there is a rock scramble at the top.

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