DPS
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Posts posted by DPS
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Climb: Mt Baker-Easton Glacier: Ski
Date of Climb: 5/7/2005
Trip Report:
A friend and I skied the Easton Glacier on Saturday. Conditions were generally good.
Gear Notes:
skis, ice axe
Approach Notes:
snow on most of approach, had to carry the skis a little ways.
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Round laces also come untied easier. I've taken 6mm cord, pulled out the core and used the sheath as flat laces. It works pretty well.
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That was us.
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It is easier than Godzilla.
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Has anyone been up to the Easton glacier recently? I would like to ski it and I am interested to know where the snow starts i.e how far will I have to carry the skis? How are the crevasses? Open?
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We thanked you guys continuously for the great tracks. You must have worked hard to put them in. Good job!
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Climb: Stuart-Stuart Glacier Coulir
Date of Climb: 5/1/2005
Trip Report:
After a flurry of emails last week, Juan, Wazzumountaineer, Heinrich and myself planned to climb the Stuart Glacier Couloir this weekend. Saturday morning Heinrich, Juan and I met at the Bellevue park and ride to carpool to the trail head where we were to meet Wazzumountaineer. On the way to Leavenworth we passed a PT Cruiser club with their freak flags a flying. We imagined what the conversations would be like at the coventions: "I had this baby up to 60!"
We met at the trailhead and hiked to our camp below the Sherpa Glacier. The camp was deluxe with running water and boulders we could lounge on. The evening's entertainment consisted of watching a pair of climbers descend the Sherpa Glacier. The pair came through our camp where one got water and the other patiently answered our questions. They had climbed the Stuart Glacier Couloir that day and shared some beta with us.
We went to bed under cloudy skies and awoke at 3:00 am to a beautiful, clear sky. By 4:00 we were leaving camp. We followed a great set of tracks put in by the climbers the day before which speeded our ascent greatly.
In a couple of hours we were roping up below the couloir which looked fantastic. Wazzumountaineer and I climbed as a pair and Juan and Heinrich climbed as a pair. A collegiate atmosphere prevailed as we shared anchors and protection. The couloir was mostly 50 degree snow with one step of 70 degree ice that protected nicely with screws. From the west ridge notch we climbed snowy rock in our crampons for 5-6 pitches. The climbing was always interesting, but never too hard. Wazzumountaineer and I swung leads and I in turned enjoyed following and leading. The last pitch was my lead and what I remember as a casual solo in running shoes was very interesting in crampons with iced up cracks. I resorted to pulling on a fixed pin to get through a tough spot. Juan and Heinrich took an alternate route to the summit and by noon we were all on the summit.
We descended the Sherpa Glacier. Juan and Heinrich downclimbed at a fantastic speed leaving Wazzumountaineer and I to methodically plod on. Soon enough we were packing camp and hiking out to a well deserved meal at Gustav's. Thanks to everyone for a fantastic trip!
Gear Notes:
2 srews, bugaboo pitons (3), 6 nuts, camalots .75-2.0.
Approach Notes:
Snow
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I did the standard route on Colchuck on Sunday. Made it to the trailhead in a Honda Accord. Snow was generally very soft but trail conditions are good with a boot pack all the way to the summit. Avoid crossing the lake. Made it across in the morning, but fell through coming out in the afternoon. A good trail is stomped out around the lake.
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I bought my wife a pair of Aztars. In general they are a bit short and light for my taste, but are otherwise decent tools. I especially like the grips and leashes. If you plan on doing water ice I would get the Aztar over the Aztarex.
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Good job Kurt. You ready for AK?
Sharp
He better be, he's got to haul my fat ass up the big hill.
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Written by a cc.commy no less...
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Feathered Friends markets a -10 bag that they say is warm enough for any summit in the world if you wear down clothes with it. It is supposedly cut a bit large to accomodate the extra clothing without compacting the down.
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Post deleted by danielpatricksmith
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Wayne were you there? Dan it was great to see ya!
Wayne was there, we said hi. I can vouch for him.
When DPS weighed in on this thread, it was a big "d'oh" for me because I was lookin' right at him last night trying to figure out who the handsome redhead was...
Hmmm, I was there, but that neither of those adjectives describe me.
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Thanks Michael, Theron, and Aidan, great slideshow! Really well done, great photos and a great adventure!
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Is this at 7:00 or 7:30? The previous annoucement said 7:00.
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There is a really nice boulder off of the Tiger Mountain Trail on Tiger Mountain, maybe 6-8 miles in from the closest trailhead. It is signed 'Lone Rock'.
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Really nice job fellas.
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I noticed there are a number of climbers signed up for the Chukanut Mountain 50k. Anyone want to carpool? I live in Issaquah. If interested please email bighurtbob@hotmail.com. Thanks.
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It had nothing to do with beer. If people want to drink or get stoned while they climb, that's their business.
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Last weekend the NE Slab of the Tooth was dry. The NE Buttress of Chair had a tiny bit of snow.
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To the punk asses drinking beer and hang dogging the 5.4 at Roto Wall on Sunday: If we cross paths again we are brawling
Glue residue on skis
in The Gear Critic
Posted
I have some skin adhesive residue stuck to my skis. Are there any solvents I could use to remove it without damaging the ski?