DPS
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Posts posted by DPS
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If the guide services are willing to train people like that, then more power to them, becasue they can be assured the newbie guid was trained by one of their own whom they trust, if not and you need these skills prior to coming on, then that is what I was referring to.
Lou Whittaker told me that he did not care if his prospective guides could climb or not, those were easy skills to learn. He was looking for specific personality types. And short hair for men. And no earrings for men.
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Aztars shouldn't even be mentioned as all around tools. They do one thing easy ice. Quarks are a much better all around tool. They climb harder ice, climb mix well, and can still do fine in the alpine.
I think the Aztars are only inferior when compared with the super tools now available. If Aztars had come out 10 years ago they would have been the shit.
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What's with posting my mug here? It belongs in the beard thread.
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People seem to like the Yashika T4 or the Olympus Stylus. I have the Olympus and it takes photos as well as my big SLR.
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Why not have a job that pays you to climb?
I think that is the big misconception about guiding, that it is climbing. Its really closer to baby sitting in a fairly dangerous environment. That said I have friends who are good at it and love it. I was bad at it and hated it.
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3 hours parking lot to summit on Cascadian Couloirs. But that was when I was trail running a lot.
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I am looking for a climbing partner for Sunday. The weather looks decent on the East side. Leavenworth might be good or Ingalls Peak. Open to other suggestions. If interested please email: bighurtbob@hotmail.com
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A Nova: A crappy car.
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I can't find mine, sorry Chad.
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To answer your question, I tried out 12 years ago. It was a two day affair. The morning of the first day you got up in front of the group and told everyone about yourself. Then you went outside where a half dozen or so stations were set up, each manned by an RMI senior guide. In small groups you rotated through each station where you 'taught' a different skill. I can't remember every skill but I recall snow anchors, knot tying, belaying/ rope handling, ice axe arrest, step kicking.
The second day was a race to the top of panorama point, with more simulated teaching scenarios afterward. We wrapped up the day by speaking in front of the goup again.
Hope that answers your questions.
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Chad,
I had a set at one time. I will dig through my stuff to see if I still have them. If so, they are yours.
Dan
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Black Diamond made one a few years ago. It fit on the end of their Alpamayo ice axe, SMC Shuksan, REI axe, or similar.
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This reminds me of the recent US supreme court decision that allows local governments to take land from individuals and give it private land developers so they can turn a profit. Only in this case its backwards.
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No, I did not nail green dragon, but it did rain one time.
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I nailed when I did it, but that was before the social conscience that is CC.com was in existence. Now I know better.
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then you are pretentious
That's why I drive an 11 year old pick up truck that the neighbors complain about. Gotta keep up appearances.
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Partner found.
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I wonder how they were getting along with the roaming wild dog packs
Swimmingly.
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I am looking for a climbing partner for this Saturday. Prefer alpine. Please email bighurtbob@hotmail.com if interested. Thanks.
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Hug it out bitch.
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[quote
The offwidth move on G&M gets the full-value mark in my book!
I think that's the only time I've ever road-runnered. Seriously freaked my wife and belayer out! 
It helps if you are small. My daughter cruised it when she was 10.
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I recall seeing that bolt back in 1997. I thought it an odd place for a bolt.
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Local climber. Died on Slipstream with Mark Biebe (sp?)
[TR] Chair Peak- East Face 10/22/2005
in Alpine Lakes
Posted
The gulley only requires a single rap then down climbing in winter.