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DPS

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Posts posted by DPS

    Closed Roads and Winter Routes???

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    There are some areas that are popular for winter mountaineering due to reasonable access and good climbing routes. Look into Colchuck Lake (Dragontail and Colchuck Peaks), Snoqualmie Pass (Chair Peak and The Tooth), and the Tatoosh Range (Pinnacle Peak, Lane Peak, and The Castle) for starters.

    winter descent off jo'burg

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    DPS, how long did you descent of the NE butt take from the snow arete? seems like it'd take the better part of a day? but then you're spared the long traverse over to cj-col of course, and don't really have to worry about avi at all.

     

    It did not take all that long, certainly not more than half the day. Rappel anchors were easy to come by, either using vegetation or ice anchors. The ice was unually fat though, in less than ideal conditions it may be harder to find anchors.

    winter descent off jo'burg

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I have descended both the C-J coulior in winter and the NE Buttress from the snow arete (our high point) in winter. Descending the Buttress was not bad, we did it with a single rope using bollards, v-threads, threaded icicles, and vegetation for anchors and down climbing.

     

     

    Near the top of the CJ Couloir there is a bowl sort of thing that likes to collect spindrift from the flanks of Cascade and J'Berg. I have been there when the entire couloir is neve and ice but that bowl is waist deep snow. Scary.

     

    When Colin climbed the NE Buttress in winter, he did it in really shitty conditions and descended by traversing West over multiple sub peaks until able to drop down to their car.

    Sat phones

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    crazyjz,

     

    I found no local dealers of satellite phones when I looked last year. I ended up renting through Satellite Oufitters (look for them on the Web). I was able to speak with a sales rep on the phone who was pretty knowledgeable. I would recommend giving them a call.

    McHale S-Sarc option ideas?

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    I have a SARC built with pack cloth, it is plenty tough, I think the Cordura is overkill. I went without the zippered bag access. I also had him put the smaller Zero SARC hipbelt on to save weight and improve mobility. I am impressed with how well the set up carries. I have carried as much as 60 lbs on training hikes with no discomfort.

     

    I agree with mattp, longer side straps would be nice for strapping down thick winter sleeping pads and the like.

    Tent and Sleeping bag for Denali

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    Well, is there a tent out there, which would work both on the West butt and let's say on speedy ascent of one of the Denali ridges? Weight vs Vollume. Too small of the tent would drive you crazy during the long hours in the base camp. Lets say I-tent, as an example (thanks griz for betta). Wouldn't it feel claustraphobic having spen weeks in it?

     

     

    Maybe the Mountain Hardware EV-24 (or whatever that thing is) would fit the bill? Light weight but roomer than an I tent. We camped next to a couple of guys who had one and used it with three people on technical routes.

    Intro and getting started

    in Newbies

    Posted

     

    I'm getting a 5k to 7k capacity McHales pack.

     

    Bear in mind that Dan McHale's pack volumes are very generous. A 5k McHale is often much bigger than other companies' 5k packs. I used a SARC (4500 cu in) on Denali and is was just about right. For most things you do, a 5-7k McHale pack will be way overkill. A SuperSarc would serve you much better and be big enough for Denali. Consider getting your pack built with the light weight fabric options, it will save a lot of weight and be plenty tough.

    [TR] Mt Hood- NF 11/19/2005

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    Climb: Mt Hood-NF

     

    Date of Climb: 11/19/2005

     

    Trip Report:

    Climbed the NF of Hood on Saturday. Left the car fashonably late a bit after 4 am, summited a bit after 4 pm. Descended South side, but descended a chute a bit to skiers right of regular chute and did not have to resort to any rappeling, just easy downclimbing. Hitched a ride back to our car.

     

    Gear Notes:

    2 pickets, nuts, pins, screws

     

    Approach Notes:

    Approached from sno park, Cloud Cap road pretty snowy.

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