DPS
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Posts posted by DPS
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Worse yet, you know the weather will crap out for the weekend.
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Try the Sound Transit #574. Goes from SeaTac to the Tacoma Dome park-and-ride. $2.00. You can view the schedule here: http://www.soundtransit.org/riding/fac/stexpress/schedules/574.asp
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My BD Ice Pack is ~3500 cu inches (45 liters) and works great for the Cascades. Its large enough that I leave the lid at home for summer climbs.
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NE Buttress on Chair is in.
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i have an acquiantence (sp?) who lost most of his fingers and toes trying this same route in winter.
Stacey Moon?
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I like this thread of discussion...
I liked it too until crazyjz got mean
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DPS, not to nit-pick, but you are wrong in practical terms about gas fuel bieng a mix. Sinsu-stricto iso-butane is a pure gas, but MSR markets their cannisters as a mix of propane and butane. So in reality, Kurt is right, and you are a dumb son of a bitch.
I had to check the MSR canister and you are indeed correct. You needn't be mean about it though.
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My office is hiring a senior software developer developer. Before you say "whoa, I don't want to work in the computer industry" consider the following: Among your co-workers would be a guy who climbed K2, a guy who has climbed literally all over the world, kick ass back country skiers, a guy who won the Seattle Marathon, and many, many climbers and well, myself. If interested send me an email and I can hook you up with the job specs. It pays between 70-90K with great benefits.
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How about the waterfall pitches on Triple couloir.
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I use the Courmayer pants, they are lighter than the Champ and the Castor and are still quite water resistant.
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In cold temperatures the isobutane canisters will burn the butane first and then the propane,
Not to pick nits but isobutane is NOT a mix of butane and propane. Isobutane is a branched isomer of butane, both having the same chemical formula. This molecular structure allows it to volatilize at lower temperatures than regular butane.
To answer the original question we should look to Boyle's Law which states (and I paraphrase here) that the vapor point is based on temperature and atmospheric pressure. The higher the altitude (lower pressure) the colder it can be and still have the fuel volatilize. Isobutane may not volatilize at 0 F at sea level, but volatilize at 0 F at 20,000 ft. In short, it has everything to due with elevation and temperature.
As someone mentioned previously, there are some tricks to getting a cansister stove to work in the cold. The simplest and most effective is to use a foil wind screen. This will deflect enough heat onto the canister to keep it running. Sleep with the cansister to keep it warm for the morning too.
In practical terms, however, I think AlpineK nailed it on the head. In summer I bring a canister stove, in winter and Alaska I bring a liquid fuel stove.
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Nice work Chad, I know you wanted that route badly.
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Looking for parnter for tomorrow. Chair Peak or ??? Please email bighurtbob@hotmail.com
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You should see them on your right, below the E face of the Chair. The ice is totally not in condition right.
The 'Rap Wall' is not below the E face of Chair. It is below Bryant Peak, I believe. Otherwise your directions were right on.
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Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss, Infinite Bliss.
I'll call it any damn thing I like includings Dan Smith's route if I like it.
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I mistakenly thought someone mentioned their friends were going to try it. I was wrong.
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Next time somebody would have to hose me down to model how this would work on a wet glacier.
I think Catbirdseat is first in line for that job
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Climb: Cascade Peak-South Side via C-J Col
Date of Climb: 12/22/2004
Trip Report:
mtnfreak and I attempted Cascade Peak on Wednesday via the C-J Couloir and south chimeny. We believed this would have been the first winter ascent of the peak.
The C-J couloir had deep snow and avalance debris in it. We mostly post holed our way up, sometimes to our waist. Once above the Sill Glacier at 6,000 ft we realized we were moving too slowly to summit and descend before dark. The snow above this point was quite deep,unconsolidated, and had not yet slid. (On a 30 degree slope no less, yikes!) Due to our slow progress in the deep snow and the avalanche hazard, we descended.
The folks coming up today should have nice steps up to this point. Good luck to them. Its a cool looking climb, regardless of it being winter or not.
We noted some cool multi-pitch water falls starting to form in the area. If we get a cold snap this would be a great, low effort area for ice climbing.
Gear Notes:
Crampons, ice axe. Brought a rope and rack, did not use it. Shoulda had less sense, more gumption.
Approach Notes:
Drive to Eldo Creek was cake, a little snow on the ground
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Funny, I just got back from Cascade Peak.
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I use them and love them.
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Does anyone know roughly how many people (hikers and climbers) use the Little Si trail in peak season?
Thanks
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Partner wanted for Sunday, Dec 19th. Don't really care what we do, just want to get out in the hills. If interested please email bighurtbob@hotmail.com
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Any advice on things to do / not to do when applying and trying out?
Be tall and blond. I sent you a PM.
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There were hangers when I did it.
Pack it up, pack it in......
in Newbies
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Well, I know have the 45 liter, not the 50, so maybe it is only 2700 cubic inches? Seems bigger than that though. Either way, 45 liters is plenty big for the cascades, Tetons, etc.