DPS

Thanks a bunch!

I have only done Easton Glacier once, CTC on skis, and I don't remember much about it. I am taking a couple of friends up this route this weekend and had some questions about where to camp. Selected Climbs mentions bivi sites at the margin of the glacier ~7,000 ft. Is this a good area to camp? Any idea how far it is to these camps? Is there a better place to camp? In general I like to camp as high as is reasonable to make the summit day shorter. TIA, Dan

I wore boots. There was continuous snow from Ingall's Pass to the lake and below the peaks.

Very good points. Ice screws on the DC this time of year are probably not necessary. Tiblocs are a great idea. I have at times pre-tied two very short prusik cords to the rope and clipped them off with carabiners and carried foot slings and a waist sling in my pocket. The idea is the short prusiks stay out of the way and in a crevasse fall all I need to do is clip the waist and foot slings on.

30 meter rope is probably enough, but I would still tie in short of each end to give yourself a bit of rope to work with. One picket, one screw, one pulley, plus a few slings and carabiners for each person on a three man team is sufficient. One prussik is fairly useless for ascending a rope. Setting up a z haul system is not really intuitive, nor is ascending a rope. Best to spend some time with your partners reviewing the skills.

Ha! My interest rate is lower!

For the most part the rock is well textured orange rock, but is in places fractured exposing the green, glassy stuff.

Trip: Ingalls East Peak - South Ridge Date: 7/5/2008 Trip Report: Richard Zeigler responded to my partner wanted ad for an easy day trip on Saturday. We decided on a traverse of the Ingall's Peaks. We hiked up to the North-East Ingalls Couloir under poor visibililty and theatening skies. We started scrambling easy rock on the left margin until I chickened out and asked to rope up. We climbed over the chockstone to the gain the slabs of the East peak and in two pitches reached the summit. The first pitch was low 5th, the second 4th class. Three rappels brought us down to the start of the East Ridge of the North Peak. Richard lead off in a light drizzle. By the time I reached the belay it was raining lightly and I wasn't having fun on the slabby rock so we bailed, making one rap to the couloir and another down the couloir to the snow. On our hike out we saw a family of mountain Goats at Ingall's Pass. All in all a nice day out desipite the gloomy weather. Thanks Richard! Gear Notes: Small rack, rope, axe Approach Notes: Snow, wear boots

Does anybody know how much snow is at Ingall's Lake? Will I need boots or will approach shoes suffice for going to Ingall's Peaks?

I took an old, non functioning XGK in to be reapaired at MSR. The dude behind the counter hands over a BRAND NEW stove. Charge: $20.00.

Hi Rick, Thanks for the resonse. I am still looking for a partner. Do you live in the Seattle area? I was thinking of a half day climb at snoqualmie pass or if the weather is bad making the trek over to Ingalls Peak or something. Email me at bighurtbob@hotmail.com if you are interested. Dan

That is actually with out a doubt quite true. African American males were purposefully infected with syphilis to study the disease. We studied that case in microbiology in college.

Looking to get out this Saturday to do a little alpine climbing at Snoqualmie Pass or the Mountain Loop Hwy. I am also open to suggestions. Experienced or newbies welcome. If interesed please email bighurtbob@hotmail.com. Thanks, Dan

Nice trip report, great photos!. The rodent you encountered is a busy tailed woodrat AKA the Snaffelhound. When I attemped the TF traverse a number of years ago he chewed through my brand new pack straps. Grrrr!

Best. Trip report. Ever.

Same here, I would have enjoyed meeting everyone too. I was indeed in the same party as the girl in the green.

Camping where we did was a poor decision on my part. We kept thinking we could find a nice, protected site 'just a little higher', but we never did. The rock fall all night was coming down from the gulley climber's left of the FF. We had a pretty sleepless night. Only one rock came down the FF and it came pretty close to our camp.

That must have been us you saw, we hit our bivi site about 4:30.

We camped at about 10,000 feet on a rock ledge at the base of the 'Finger'. Not recommended.

30 years ago my childhood physician was Dr. John Roper at Group Health in Renton. He was a climber and his office had lots of mountain climbing photos on the walls. I thought the name Roper was appropriate for a climber, or a rodeo cowboy. Is this the same John Roper that has climbed all that stuff in the Cascades?

KKK, I think I saw your group on FF. Did one guy in your party have a pony tail? I was with a guy and a girl. I was greeting folks with 'hola amigo'. At the top of the finger where everyone kind of stopped, we saw the group that placed pickets to protect a pull over a crevasse lip thingy (you guys I assume). We went left and down - it was quite easy. We turned around shortly thereafter, one of our party was running out of steam. Dan

Niiiice!

177.5. It won't budge.

West Ridge of North Twin Sister (near Bellingham)

Thanks for the encouragment. I keep hearing things that suggest I may never be rid of this bug.