Matt

quote: Originally posted by Bronco: Come over to the darkside Matt. Become a Capitalist and you can have your own park! We could use some creative thinking over here anyway. Things have gotten dull with all the Enron boys out of the picture, those guys could make money appear out of thin air I tell ya'. Thanks for the invite Bronco! When me lucky charms finally lead me to the pot o' gold I think I will buy my own park. There's some nice property for sale in the Icicle! As for participatory democracy, filling in a bubble on a ballot is a pretty lame way of "participating" in one's own self governance. I favor a more active approach: join the Marines or build a house with Habitat for Humanity or serve as a volunteer fire fighter or join a union or go to your local town hall and sit in on the city council meetings and make your voice be heard! Do something. Contribute actively! I think Alison has it right. We elect legislators to pass laws and run government and all Tim Eyman seems to do is stymie any forward movement. Fairweather, I was waiting all day for you to show up! Let me tell you my friend, I don't know why your property taxes have gone up. Maybe it's because you property value has gone up? Yes, we would all like to see more in public services for the taxes we pay. My point is maybe we'd get more if we gave more! Now I know you don't trust government to spend the money wisely, but that's why I say decentralize! Let local government collect the taxes and make the decisions if it is capable. King County was unable to be fiscally responsible enough to manage something as simple as a park. That pisses me off!!! From what I understand the City of Mercer Island bought the park so I wonder what that means for the future. Will those of us who don't live there have to pay to use the park? If so, that will really piss me off. Yes, we should pay more taxes. We need better hiways, better mass transit, more services. Those who have more should pay more. Fairweather, it sounds like you have more, so you deservedly pay more. How do you like them apples?

Personally I think the initiative process is a poor way to legislate and Eyman has abused it to the nth degree. As an individual, he has lowered the quality of life in Washington State.

quote: Originally posted by MtnGoat: If there losses of revenue have been due to the fact that tabs no longer support non transpo issues, this is entirely appropriate. The city and county's job is to make priorities and meet a budget, not just spend and spend and meet the budget by raising taxes. I don't get to go to my boss and demand a raise because I couldn't decide between a boat and fixing my house, and neither the city nor the county should be building apartements for drunks and closing parks and then claiming they don't have money. They do have money, they choose to spend it in the wrong places. They are paid to make hard choices, and it's time to make them. Govt is not a bottomless cornucopia. MtnGoat-- You said that Government is not a bottomless cornucopia. Well, I say America is. We are the richest nation in the world. We have everything. Money, power, everything. We are the only superpower left standing. Personally, I would like to see a state income tax in Washington so we could have the resources to solve our local problems ourselves. I think closing parks to save money is akin to cutting after school sports and art class in public schools-- an atrocity in our afluent society. From what I understand, Eyman is not Republican (that is, pro-local government), rather he is anti tax. He's just a greedy selfish pig who doesn't want to give any of his money to help anyone but himself. Didn't I-776 actually take away power from local government? How is that democratic? I want my park back.

1. Dogs keep the snafflehounds away from your pack. 2. Dogs are chick magnets. (Lambone, I know you're a newlywed so watch out!) 3. Dogs dig you out when you've been buried by an avalanche. 4. Dogs love you when no one else does.

I just drove over to Luther Burbank Park on Mercer Island. It's closed--- stinking King County! Why are we closing parks? What is wrong with our people that we are so unwilling to pay taxes that we'd rather close parks? I just don't get it...

If you live in Seattle and drive a Subaru, how do you ever find your car? I swear every 3rd car is a Subaru Outback. I like Subarus, used to own one, but the 4-cyclinder boxer is so weak! The WRX would be fun... I don't think it's for you Matt. As for Audis... my last car was an Audi A4 Quattro. Minx, I'm not sure if you're a car salesman or something, but these cars are not cheap. Fantastic to drive, but not cheap to buy or maintain. Also, the A4 is very small. No way Matt could go from a Toyota truck to an A4. Plus, you'll want to stay away from a car w/ an engine that requires premium gas like the A4. It costs more to fill up the tank on an A4 than it does on an SUV. I can't really see you in a Pathfinder/FourRunner SUV type rig. Definitely more comfortable than your Toyota, but the mileage sucks. It pains me to say this, but I'm with Fairweather. The VW Jetta wagon is pretty cool and is it the TDI version that gets close to 50 mpg? A definite option. The Passat is a great car too. German's know how to make a great driving car, though they require more upkeep than a Japanese car. Mattp, I know you want a Volvo station wagon. Don't worry, your climbing buddies won't make too many jokes about you becoming all yuppie-fied and domestic. Volvos are tough, lots of room, good ride, semi reliable. How are the Law Offices of Perkins, Perkins and Perkins LLP doing? Are you ready to shell out for a new V70 or do you want an old 240? Go for the Volvo! You know you want to!

See y'all at the the rope up this weekend! I'm looking forward to the moonlight climb of castle rock! [ 10-18-2002, 01:56 PM: Message edited by: Matt ]

Law Goddess-- I think about half the class already had their EMT and let their certification lapse or had taken a First Responder class so you are testing against people with a lot of knowledge. I see my math was bad-- 40 out of 120 is 33%, but whatever, there was a large auditorium of people testing to get in. Personally, I bought the book "Emergency Response: USDOT First Responder Curriculum" published by the American Red Cross and learned enough on my own to pass the entrance exam. I wish I had taken a First Responder class, because it is clear in the practicals who has done this before and who is learning it for the first time. So law goddess, yes, you have to study for the test, both to get into the class and have a base of knowledge to work from once you enroll. It's well worth it.

You are close. EMT-Bs can administer O2, oral glucose, and activated charcoal. Additionally we can help patients self administer auto-inhalers, epinephrine, and nitroglycerin. If you have a partially obstructed airway we can stick a tube down your throat. At the moment I'm planning on eventually going for my EMT-P, but generally you need to work as an EMT-B for a year before going to paramedic school. I don't think we have EMT-Is in Washington.

For the past month I've been taking an EMT-B class at North Seattle Community College and it's been really empowering and enjoyable. I wanted to give the cc.com climbing community a heads up so that those who are interested might sight up for next semester's class. There are a few hoops you have to jump through before you can enroll in the class, the two biggest being you must get a CPR for the Professional Rescuer card and there is an entrance exam you must pass to get into the class. I think there are generally 120 or so students trying for the 40 seats in the class so you must score in the top 25 percentile. The class is three months long, 110 hours of class time, 6pm to 10pm Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursdays. Honestly it's a lot of work, and when combined with a 40 work week it makes getting out and climbing very difficult. I think in the end it will be worth it for both my partners and myself. From a climber's point of view, it's better to take the class when it's wet and rainy outside and you can minimize your missed climbing days. Here's the hyperlink: http://www.northseattle.edu/health/emt/index.htm Here's a list of other EMT programs in Washington: http://www.cityofseattle.net/fire/employment/ffjob_EMT.htm Feel free to email me with any questions you have. I'm planning on cruising over to Leavenworth to join the rope up so I hope to see you all there!

Congrats all! Mattp-- the photo is beautiful! Michael Carter-- Awesome! Lambone-- Good luck! I wish you all the best, and hope that marriage is never a hinderance to your passion for climbing! Uhh-- I mean I hope climbing is never a hinderance to your passionate marriage! Gongxi gongxi!

I own the book. Stream climbing is fun when the temps are cold and it hasn't snowed yet! The only bummer about ice climbing in Japan is the massive amounts of people. I mean, talk about picked out-- I did many climbs where I hooked my way to the top, never having to swing a placement. And the Japanese have a different concept of safety-- they are much more willing to climb right above you/below you/next to you on ice, which personally I don't care for. There is so much ice in Japan you can't even imagine! I don't think Canada or the US has to worry about the Asian invasion-- this isn't the 80's you know. They've got plenty of good stuff to climb. BTW, about climbing ice in the summer, many of the slab areas in Japan would be attacked by ice climbers training for mixed routes-- the climbers would climb the rock in their boots and crampons, scratching up the route much the way the South route on the Tooth is scratched up, except even more so. Ugly, to say the least.

Hey Mtngrrl- I've been on Fujisan in the winter time. Technically, its very easy, even in the winter, comparable to climbing Mt Hood in the winter. The interesting thing will be the fact that there won't be many people. I went on several climbing and tele skiing trips around Fujisan in January/February and there was a lot of snow. It's beautiful when there aren't so many people there. You might not be able to drive up to the fifth station that most people start from in the regular season. They close the road in the winter, even when there is no snow on the ground, but it doesn't snow much in the end of November/beginning of December so you might get lucky. Expect very cold conditions-- bring double boots, down jacket, 4 season tent, the works. I had a car when I did it which made winter climbing on Fujisan a bit easier. Assuming you are stuck with using public transport, you might have some difficulty getting to the approach trail you want-- I'd say take the train and then try to find a taxi driver that will drive you up there. Hopefully you speak and read Japanese so negotiating your way there will be easier. Most Tokyo bookstores carry very detailed hiking maps and I sugest you buy the map to Mt. Fuji after you arrive in Japan. I have one somewhere in my house, but I can't seem to find it. You will need this map. If the weather is warm I suggest you go climbing at Ogawa yama (Small River Mountain). It's the leavenworth of Japan-- stellar granite with multi pitch trad routes and crazy steep sport routes. It is the least grid bolted of the Japanese crags I visited. Yatsugadake is also a great area to hike. There are hot springs and amazing road side ice climbing if the weather gets cold enough, though usually December is when the ice comes in. There are plenty of onsen (hot spring houses) near fujisan. You should check them out. Have fun. Be sure to eat some Shabu-shabu, it's my favorite Japanese dish. If you have any questions email me. Matt

Happy Birthday Erik!

quote: Originally posted by payaso: Shin Ramyun Korean Ramen "Hot and Spicy" I live on this shit. Shin Ramyun is the tastiest ramen on the market if you're into spicy food. Add and egg and it's even better!

quote: Originally posted by texplorer: Have only used a few DMM's but I think they would work just fine. I still like having my camalots but. . . . WC are IMO the best large size (>#4). I would like to get a couple of 5's and a 6. Matt dude, not to diss but the big BD's are wobley and unstable and you don't need a #5 on the Kor Ingals either. I swear on pitch 4 there was a big off width/chinmey/overhang that only protected with something bigger than a number 4. My partner told me there was a way around, but that's what I'm thinking of. Kor-Ingals is one of the few climbs I've done where I brought two #4s and a #5. Someone told me pitch three has been retrobolted and now what used to be the scary offwidth is tame-- you know, the part where the calcite (white rock) is? I climbed it during spring break 1995 so it's been a while. What I do remember is waiting on top of the tower for a few more parties to get up before the sun went down. There were maybe four of us, just hanging out, passing a joint around, strangers sharing in the comradery of climbing. Loving every minute of it.

Dru-- I'll tell you which big friend I want-- that one in the Patagonia "committed to the core" add where Royal Robins (or some old school Yosemite climber) is hanging out in J-Tree with a cam the size of a small umbrella. That is a cam I want.

Is that why he drives the F250?

Nothing beats BD Camalots in the big sizes. They are wide and solid. The single shaft keeps them from walking. The colors make them easy to grab when your stuck in a chimney and you can't see your gear loops. Bronco, unless your going to climb the Kor-Ingels on Castleton Tower (or something like it) you don't need a #5 Camalot. I rarely do climbs when I need anything bigger than my #4. I think the new 3.5 and 4.5 are way cool and if I hadn't just bought myself a set of aliens I'd be covetting them, but as it is I have more cams then my hardest trad lead rating (I have yet to lead a 5.11 crack, but I have more than 11 cams). DMM cams are a waste of money.

Yesterday I climbed Princely Ambitions. I had followed it before, but yesterday was the first time I'd ever lead it. I love the way it kept asking me to step out into nothingness. It used to be 5.8? No way. Even 5.9, I know lots of 5.9s that are easier than PA. A friend thinks Princely Ambitions is harder than Sagitarius (a nearby 5.10). I love Index sandbags. So tasty. Mmm.

Right on! Climbing is the coolest sport there is and buying shoes is the first step. I remember telling my dad I wanted climbing shoes for Christmas and he was psyched to buy me some big burly leather mountaineering boots. He was disappointed when he saw these pink ballet style shoes that I wanted. He was all, "What's with these gay shoes?" He didn't understand why I would want little fairy slippers when I could get big manly boots. Teenagers are always misunderstood by their fathers. Anyway... Most beginners drag their toes up the rock and this is where your shoes will wear out first. Like Erik said, place your feet decisively. Don't drag your toes. If your shoes develop a hard gloss on the outside of the rubber you can rub them with sandpaper to give them that "sticky" feel again. You can tell your shoes need to be resoled when you wear all the way through the rubber and you can see the colored leather underneath. I think climbing on plastic indoors wears out your shoes faster than natural rock so climb outside as much as you can. Have fun!!!

There is a .5 Camalot stuck on Godzilla. Anyone with more time than money can go get it. All the lobes are moving, it's just deep and the triggers are broken. It's not mine. I don't care.

quote: Originally posted by sayjay: Am I nuts or on my way to nirvana? Probably both! This is a good thing!

Welcome back Mattp! I suggest that all ladies who wish to donate bras and undies to the "Mattp-Darrington Trail Restoration Project" should bring them tonight to the Pub Club!!! This could make the best Pub Club ever! See attached thread: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002701