robertm

Climb: Redoubt-NE Face Date of Climb: 7/17/2005 Trip Report: Climbers: RobertM, MVS, Der Wanderer From Der Wanderer... Trip Report: MVS, RobertM, and I went in and tackled the face over the usual three days. We hiked all the way to Ouzel Lake on day 1 arriving in about 5.5 hours...pretty stiff approach! We crossed the Depot Glacier from the west about two thirds of the way up. Crossing was fine...looked even more crevasse free higher. Down low (which is clearly visible from the valley below) is very broken. There were some short steep sections of icy snow to reach the base of the ice apron. There are good belays in 'shrunds along the way. The conditions were a bit sloppy in places; we ended up going straight up the middle and hugging the ice on the right for periodic ice screw placements, pickets were useless in long sections, but good at belays. The traverse above the apron was tedious and slow, crossing from snow to rock and back. The final steep snow face was pretty easy - more deep kick stepping with better snow conditions up high. The final scramble is pretty exposed but solid. We lounged on the summit for a while (30-45 minutes). The descent wasn't all that bad, mostly just slipping on scree and talus and plunge stepping. We returned via the Redoubt Glacier which was easy. We were back at camp about 14 hours after leaving (5am). Go 'n get it soon. Gear Notes: light rack: 3 ice screws, 3 pickets, 3 hexes, set of nuts, 3-4 cams varied widths, lots of slings. Approach Notes: Depot Creek was overflowing in spots and we got sprayed good on the slabs in front of the falls. The wet slaps were slick as ice in places (I wore plastic boots) but the holds were all there - kinda hard to take your time while getting pelted by cold water though. The ascent up the falls is steep and tiring. When arriving at the campsites in the bogs at the top of the falls, cut directly across in a beeline to get to the opposite side of the valley to avoid the marshes. There's a nice trail (hard to follow in spots) right on the edge that will take you to a long moraine slog up to the lake. We thought about camping under the face but didn't want to fool with crossing numerous streams and the West Depot Glacier looked broken. Gear Notes: a couple of pickets small rock rack full shank boots crampons hammer and axe Approach Notes: good trail via depot creek

We just went in there via Depot creek to hit the NE Face of Redoubt. Trail was pretty good... You could probably make Silver lake in 4-5 hours. Spickard was in the cards but fatigue and indifference after climbing Redoubt got the better of us.

Has anyone done GunnSlinger the 5.9 route on Gunn? Is it worth doing?

one axe per peep.... no poons 90% of snow on asgard is melted as of 4 days ago...

Approach: Across the Glacier... On the ridge: On the crest... Pickets from Summit.

North face looked good. It had some significant snow patches... I would give it another couple of weeks to melt off. It looked like there were plenty of ledges where the snow collected.

Climb: Triumph-NE Ridge Date of Climb: 5/28/2005 Trip Report: Climbed NE ridge on Saturday. Some snow in Col... none on approach (patches between lower and middle lake) Lots of Ice worms on glacier... really warm not much post hole action as snow seemed to set up pretty good. Rock on the ridge was dry and snow free. backed up sketchy anchors and left biners on stations without rap rings. Took just as long down as up... 4 hours from base with party of 3. 4 hours down. Just off crutches with a bad ankle sprain... taped up good and went for it. Got flu on day of climb which made it more of a sufferfest than it should have been. Awesome views of the surrounding peaks! Go get it. Gear Notes: light rack: #1, #2, #3 set of nuts and #6,7,8 Hexes... lots of slings Approach Notes: a little snow between lower and middle lake. Running water at Col. Notch bivy on ridge was snow covered.

http://www.scramble.org/robert/photogallery/DomePeak/chickman.JPG http://www.scramble.org/robert/photogallery/DomePeak/chickaman_snowdome.JPG

When we did it there happened to be another team so we put our ropes together which elimintaed some 50 degree downclimbing... so although we used 2 ropes although it wasn't entirely necessary. A single 60 will get you down to some steepish downclimbing. We climbed it in Mid-March of last year.

Thanks for the info! I am looking at Mid - Late May so hopefully the rockfall will not be increased by this low snow year. Donnv - your itenerary is the exact one we were looking at. Gator - I see that you are visiting the empire on 5/12 so I will try to touch bases with you. Later - R

I am thinking about heading up Curtis Ridge. Is it a classic or should I do something else? I have done lib ridge before so was looking for something else on that side of the mountain. Is ptarmigan better? Any and all responses appreciated.

How far in is the trail to 3 O Clock ? 3 miles?

still closed at 29 pines

We climbed the tooth via the South Face on Saturday. There was a boot pack up to source lake and then the snow got deep. Take snowshoes. The rock is dry and sunny with no ice. NE & E face was bare. Rap wall looked in for harder mixed conditions. N. Face of Snoq. looked bare from summit of tooth. Parties returning from Chair mentioned said there is no ice on N Face. There is no connecting ice band on NE butt to upper snowfield... you could probably still send. Guye peak routes (including improb traverse) looked bare and dry.

there is always lots of stuff at the base of elcap. I found a iPOD a month ago below N.A. wall. The only thing that survived was the headphones which still work.

Probably just as alpine as Slesse. At least you cannot see logging roads while on route. I was surprised to find chains on most of the routes in the bugs now. The ranger said it saves lots of $$ on rescues.

I think McTech has to be my favorite rock climb that I have ever done. I don't think it gets any better for alpine rock.

That is interesting. When I climbed Lib Ridge in June 1998 a fellow had the exact samething happen. A rock came down and punched through his tent and slammed into his leg. He was able to climb the next day but had a noticable limp. That schrund looks nasty... ours was much easier to surmount so I assume it was not you that day.

I agree in general about the micro-camelots. The one place where they do excel is in thin vertical finger cracks. The west face of NEWS is one place I can think of that they proved very handy and fit like a glove. I place my TCUs much more than the micros. The other place they work pretty good is under flakes on slab climbs.

I have done this one a couple of times. I have always just went straight up to LL in your diagram. There is a good 5.7ish Dihedral that pops you right onto the traverse.

We had our entire tent tore through... all they took was the new squamish guide. Left all of our cams and other gear. strange...

Hey Piney, last I saw you was from a helicopter. I am from the area and my dad said they just got snow above 4000' so unless the weather changes I would rule out Chimney. Minne is good as is postfalls (for sport)... tubs was mostly bouldering last I was there. No other real alpine stuff close. There is a place in CDA that has a guide to PF and Minne is covered sufficiently in Smoot.

I would just carry on and hit the summit of snoqualmie and then down the trail. There is a tower on the ridge that is worth climbing if you have the time. It is granite (grandorite) and has some old pins. I think it is a sattelite summit of snoqualmie.

When I did this climb I stayed to the right of the crest in the picture until the Offwidth was encountered. The climbing wasn't too bad 5.7ish. We simuled one pitch from the shrund up to the start of the hard climbing. It appeared to me that if one wanted to avoid the offwidth this would be possible on the left? In any case the offwidth adds character to the climb. We got caught in a blizzard (in May) at the start of the fin. We had to traverse left and enter the third coulier and chop steps up to the top. This was a memorable outing. Good job Alpinefox... I will need to go back and finish this one right one of these days. I agree with the green cam... I thought the ow was tough and scary (lucky for me I didn't lead that pitch).

A good day trip is to do Del Campo, then traverse the castles and hit Gothic. The views are great. Is the summit register on the Castle you are refering to still a bandaid box from the 50s placed by Boy Scouts?