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Daphne H

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Everything posted by Daphne H

  1. question Light alpine shoes?

    One of the biggest problems I come across climbing in the Cascades is finding an appropriate shoe to climb in. For my first year of alpine climbing, I mostly used high top, goretex hiking boots. This worked well on soft snow and glaciers - kept my feet dry, and were for the most part crampon compatible. When it came to the rock climbing portion of climbs though, I found them to be less than stellar, underperforming my climbing approach shoes and climbing shoes. I did end up switching into climbing shoes and carrying the boots in my bag, but ultimately wanted something that climbed snow and rock well. Following that, I started climbing in boulder x approach shoes. The boulder x mids are goretex and high top, so work well for keeping my feet dry, climb extremely well on rock, can hike for miles in them, and worked reasonably well with strap-on crampons. But now they're discontinued. I have a pair of mountaineering boots, but they don't walk very well, and I'm hesitant to wear them on a 20km+ hike so that they can perform well in snow / moderately on rock. So what are you all using for your alpine shoes? We live in such a limited market area of the world... need something that hikes well, is waterproof and mid/high topped, strap-on crampon compatible, and climbs well. Why La Sportiva discontinued the boulder x mid is beyond me, but any awesome replacements?
  2. question Light alpine shoes?

    I was thinking of picking up the TX4 Mids as the reviews looked good, glad to see others here are using them too. I like the scarpa crux for cragging / multipitch with short approach/descent, but definitely not for glacier...
  3. Awesome, thanks for sharing!! So those camp spots are technically outside of the permit zone? Interesting.....
  4. Sensing a common theme! We also got lost coming off of the south twin in the valley, and then again in the woods. I think getting out of the woods took longer than the rest of the climb... haha
  5. question Light alpine shoes?

    I read in Rogers Pass Alpine that the Asulkan traverse was a fine outing on solid rock... at the end of the trip, I was left wondering what the authors definition of "solid rock" was, as I didn't really find much of that!! Guess that is the Rockies and close-to-Rockies for you?
  6. question Light alpine shoes?

    And the few that pop up are discontinued extremely quickly I'll check out Salewa - thanks! I think that sounds just fine, as I wouldn't climb more than 5.5 or 5.6 in them.
  7. question Light alpine shoes?

    @JasonG I aspire to climb a lot of what you have climbed, curious to see what you wear.
  8. Awesome pics, we were on the Asulkan traverse the week after, and didn't see a single soul until we hit the Abbott Hut. Rogers Pass is definitely a well kept secret that everyone knows about but overlooks! I guess when you're that close to the Rockies or the Bugs, you can't be bothered to stop? How were conditions on the Sir Donald traverse? We took a look over and it seemed like the snow patch was entirely melted out - did you use crampons for that one? Any snow left on Tupper?
  9. [TR] Enchantments - 7 Bulgers in a day 07/14/2018

    This is so rad, well done!!!! Definitely giving me some ideas for a (shorter) linkup... LOL...
  10. I'm interested in shaving a bit of weight off my kit and am wondering if anyone has tried the Patagonia Hybrid sleeping bag. Ideally it would replace my current sleeping bag on everything summer alpine climbing related - a spot in my backpack in case of unplanned bivies, planned bivies, weeklong trips in the bugs. - is it actually warm? - is it durable - can I use it as my main sleeping bag or is it prone to ripping? - is it comfortable (does it breathe or will i be waking up in a pile of condensation/sweat?) Any other reviews / recommendations would be awesome. Thanks!
  11. Leavenworth bouldering in Late June?

    I've done some bouldering there in Jul/Aug and it can definitely be hot, but I've been able to send comfortably - as Hans mentioned try going up Icicle Creek, and there are tons of shady, forested areas.
  12. Glad everyone in the situation ended up ok, Chilliwack SAR is awesome!!
  13. can i come with you then? I'll carry your food if I get a spot in the tent
  14. [TR] Dragontail Peak - Serpentine Arete 7/8/2017

    Thanks! We ended up going crampon-less and I definitely regretted it. Great route though! Made me definitely consider lugging the bigger pieces up and trying Backbone too...
  15. [TR] Dragontail Peak - Serpentine Arete 7/8/2017

    Woo, thanks for the TR! I'm headed to the area this weekend and couldn't find too much info on DT. Sounds like an awesome (epic) trip! So based on your picturse it looks like crampons are something i'll definitely want to bring... how about shoes? Do you think the snow is shallow/hard enough for approach shoes or are boots better?
  16. Trip: Nesakwatch Spires - Ensakwatch Enchainment attempt Date: 8/28/2016 Trip Report: The Ensakwatch Enchainment has been on my to do list for a long time. A short approach, low key climbing, and gorgeous views the entire way up make for a pretty type 1 kind of day in my books. With only one free day this past weekend, we decided that this was the time to try it. Sunday's weather forecast was overcast, but according to various sources, we would be able to avoid the rain as long as we got off the mountain before Monday morning. Easy peasy right? The drive up the FSR took so long, we may as well have walked. Not really, but it was definitely a slow and painful process. The road has not been graded in a while, and we had to continuously get out of the car to make sure we wouldn't bottom out or get stuck. We were actually able to get within 1km of the trailhead, right before a log blocks the road and a major washout a bit further down would prevent any more vehicle travel, even without the log. We started off on the trail at about 7:30 on Sunday morning. The valley was entirely fogged in, but the sun was trying to shine through, resulting in a gorgeous glowing sky. Morning sky, hiding views of Mt. Slesse The hike up to the famous bivy rock took us about 3 hours at a relaxed pace; as the clouds cleared from the valley we started to get views of Slesse and Baker peeking through, and we stopped multiple times to gawk and plan our next trip (Slesse!) There is water available at a creek about halfway up the trail, but it was definitely on the trickling side, so I don't know how much longer it will be there. Hey there, Slesse! Alpine Select is unclear about the exact start of the Ensakwatch Enchainment. We knew we had to start on the North Ridge of the North Nesakwatch Spire, but we couldn't quite figure out where that was. In the end, we relied on a trip report that said to aim for a patch of bushes on the very left of the spire, as soon as you emerge from the trail. We poked around there for a while, couldn't really find a clean patch of rock to start up, so just picked our way up the face towards the ridge. We were able to keep the majority of the climbing at class 4 / low 5th, with a couple of ~5.6 moves thrown in. Once we reached the ridge, we followed the ridgeline, staying slightly to the north, to the summit block. View from the base of the North Spire The final push to the summit included us going up a chimney between two large blocks. At the top of the chimney, you have an option to go right up a slightly overhanging offwidth, or left, up and through a narrow squeeze that we dubbed the "birthing canal". Neither looked too appealing, but in the absence of gear, we decided to go through the birthing canal. After some struggling, cursing, and general good times, we both managed to free ourselves from the confines of the canal, through a second narrow slot above it, and emerged on the summit, about 1.5 hours from the bivy rock. Going up the chimney Going through the passageway Part 2 of the birthing canal, exiting onto the summit An artistic rendering of the "birthing canal" From here, the descent is extremely easy - follow the very clear, well trodden path down from the summit, along the ridge, and up to the summit of the south spire. The rock is white and free of lichen and moss - you really can't miss it. Be really careful of loose rock here - I nearly bailed multiple times, and it was a good reminder that no matter how big the rock is, it can and will still move on you. We were also able to keep the majority of the climbing here at low 5th, with a couple of 5.6/7 moves. Looking up at South Nesakwatch and Rexford from the North/South notch When you get to the summit block, the easiest way up is a 5.7 offwidth. There are honestly only about two offwidth moves - then there are tons of features on the outside that you can grab onto or step on to make your way to the top, but unless you bring a big piece up, there's no way to protect it (except a small, sketchy looking chockstone at the bottom of the offwidth). From the top, there's no real feature to use to rappel off of. We've read that the options are to downclimb the offwidth, sling the horn on the offwidth, or counterbalance rappel. We considered slinging the horn, but with the likelihood that it would get stuck, we decided to each rappel off one side of the tower and then just pull the rope from one side. It was pretty quick and easy. Summit! Unfortunately, when we reached the summit, we could see storm clouds approaching. Before we were finished getting off the summit block, the rain had come. We briefly considered waiting out the rain, but the clouds looked pretty ominous and didn't seem like it would let up at any time. Still hopeful, we headed down the southwest ridge of the South Spire. When you look down from the tower to the right, with Rexford right in front of you, you'll see a clear big patch of sandy area on the ridge, with a cairn. Aim for that, and you'll find two rappel stations that will bring you down to the notch between Rexford and South Nesakwatch. This is a full 30M rap, and will leave you having to downclimb the last couple of meters still. From here you can either head up the north face of Rexford, or walk down the sandy scree col to the boulderfield below, which is what we ended up doing. The fun scree down the Rexford South Nesakwatch col. After Cascadian Couloir, this was a piece of cake. From here it's a quick walk across a boulderfield (there is still a ton of snow patches left in this boulder field, so if you're bivying here, water is definitely available). The descent took us about 1.5 hours in the pouring rain. Snow patches in the bowl, with tons of bivy rocks This was definitely an enjoyable day in the alpine, maybe one of the beset i've had (But I say that every time!) I've never been to this area before, but now I have an excuse to come back. Next time I come i'll definitely plan for a bivy to enjoy the gorgeous views and try out some of the other awesome routes (Dairyland, Fantasies and Fairytales!?) Additional pictures: The wall you hit halfway up the approach - you follow this the rest of the way up The approach Alpine meadows Cool clouds Slesse Baker South Spire and Rexford Looking out to the north The entire enchainment Gear Notes: Light single rack (barely used) 60M half rope (needed for 30M rappel) A lot of water - nothing is available after the approach unless you melt Axe/Crampons not needed! Approach Notes: Take the Chilliwack Lake Road until you reach Nesakwatch Creek FSR. Take a right. Drive as far as you can and then walk the rest of the way (about 8KM). Take a left where you reach the Rexford Trail. The rest of the approach is very straightforward and well marked with flagged cairns.
  17. Excellent TR, thanks for sharing!! Based on what you saw... do you think the BS Col will be in for much longer? I had given up on going up BC this year but maybe there's still a possibility.. (Don't want to take the longer approach)
  18. Great TR! How did you find the snow slope on Dragontail with just trekking poles / no axe?
  19. Is this before or after you hit the Dragontail summit?
  20. Seems like you guys went plenty fast to me Great job! We were looking over at Slesse from Nesakwatch wondering if anyone was climbing... wonder if I zoom in on my pictures enough I can see you? LOL. Good job guys!
  21. I'm looking to do this but can't find much beta. Has anyone done this recently or been up in the Chehalis and know what the snow situation is? I'm wondering what snow gear if any is required. Most TRs I read take 3 days. We have 2. All of the bivies I've read about are either below Viennese or after Clarke. Is there a good bivy spot for 2 people between the two? Thanks!
  22. Viennese Clarke traverse

    Thanks for the info. After going up there and seeing/experiencing the approach / descent for myself, will definitely be trying this in three days next time... There' still a fair bit of snow on Clarke and nearby. Don't underestimate the time required to find your way from Upper Statlu up to the climb and back down. There's a good reason most people do it in 3.
  23. Viennese Clarke traverse

    We left on a clear, beautiful, 25 degree day in Chilliwack.... and then also ended up doing a day trip to upper statlu carrying bivy gear when we were hit by a torrential downpour! Heard the same thing from a party the previous day. Guess that's the Chehalis for you... After that experience I'll definitely be adding a day to my next attempt.
  24. Great shots! This area looks unreal. Totally agree with your comment that climbing in the Cascades makes all the other approaches seem chill in comparison!
  25. Trip: Mount Torment and Forbidden Peak - Torment Forbidden Traverse Date: 7/30/2016 Trip Report: We completed the traverse in two days on July 30-31. I had difficulty finding recent condition reports when preparing for the trip, so wanted to share some information here. We arrived at the glacier at about 11:30am on Saturday morning, a ridiculously warm day even at that elevation. The glacier crossing was pretty mellow - a few crevasses and a moat at the notch, but these were easily navigable. The snow was pretty soft and slushy (maybe due to the time of day) so crampons were not absolutely necessary, but nice to have. Glacier Crossing Crevasses We used Steph Abegg's trip report and topos for route finding, and they were spot on. From the summit of Torment, we dropped about 30m down the south face to some grassy ledges, and then traversed east towards the large, noticeable notch. From the notch, there are two rap anchors. Using the anchors to the east allows you to rappel across the large moat below, avoiding having to climb out of it. Rappelling into the moat From here, we downclimbed / rappelled past a bergschrund. There were numerous open crevasses below, but again, easily navigable. Bergschrund From here, we traversed to the east again, towards the ledge system, which was slightly snow covered but not icy (again, likely due to the warm weather and time of day). We climbed up towards the snow patch, and were able to walk around the snow rather than through it. This led us to the steep snow section of the traverse. This was again, in very good condition. The snow was stable and bootpack from a previous party was visible. From the saddle, we dropped down to the south again, towards another series of grassy ledges. These ledges brought us past two snow patches to an excellent bivy spot on the south side of the ridge. A headwall to the north and several rock barriers around the site protected us from the wind, and we had a great view into Boston Basin. We decided to settle here for the night, just a bit more than halfway through the traverse. The site comfortably fit three of us, and likely would have had room for another party. Route we took to the bivy site View from Bivy Note that water was very difficult to find on the route until this point. We had figured that we'd be able to fill up while on the glacier on the north of the ridge; however, there wasn't a lot of easily accessible snow melt. We actually weren't able to refill our water until the first snow patch on the south side of the ridge, after the steep snow traverse, so plan accordingly or be prepared to melt snow while on the glacier. We started the next morning at about 8am, and the remainder of the route was an enjoyable scramble to Forbidden Peak, with the ridge widening into the "sidewalk in the sky". At this point, we found a set of rappel anchors, and rappelled off the south side to (more) grassy ledges. From here, we traversed east until we reached the notch that starts the west ridge of Forbidden. Although the west ridge route generally stays to the north of the ridge, we climbed slightly to the south of the ridge or right on top of it, and found that the friction was amazing / moves were generally 4th to low 5th class. As noted by several trip reports prior to mine, the general theme was, if the terrain got too difficult, generally stepping off to the north helped ease the terrain off a bit. The ridge was entirely socked in to the south From the summit of Forbidden, we downclimbed / made a few rappels on the north side of the route. Once we got back down to the notch, we downclimbed the gully about 30m, until we found the first rappel anchors skier's right. From there, the majority of the anchors were on skiers left of the gully. I would estimate that no rappel went more than 20m, and the majority of them were quite a bit shorter, about 10m. The final rappel before you drop off into the snow (so second to last rappel) is a bit of a rope stretcher, and we had to downclimb the last few moves of the gully, so beware of that if you have a 60m rope. The descent on the snow was fine - there were a few areas where running water had exposed the rock face underneath, but the descent was simple and crampons were not used. Glacier on the descent from Forbidden Peak Some additional pictures from the traverse: Forbidden Peak from the summit of Torment Sunrise from Bivy Summit selfie! Gear Notes: 60m 8.5mm rope 12 alpine draws 2 ice screws (not used) single rack to #3 single set of nuts (not used) Ice axe and crampons
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