
Nick Sweeney
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Everything posted by Nick Sweeney
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Nice work!
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[TR] Argonaut Peak - NW Arete 06/14/2025
Nick Sweeney replied to Christopher Fisher's topic in Alpine Lakes
Great work! I'd really like to do this one. I've been to that basin twice and that shwacky section in the woods is very hard to navigate. Enough so that I took detailed notes each time and made a GPX track for myself. How was the climbing on route? -
[TR] Dragontail Peak - Triple Couloirs 05/09/2025
Nick Sweeney replied to TheJohnnyleeMD's topic in Alpine Lakes
Proud! Nice work man. Love to see that the persistence paid off!- 4 replies
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- triple couloirs
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[TR] Colfax Peak - The Polish Route 02/09/2025
Nick Sweeney replied to tr0y's topic in North Cascades
Nice moves Troy. Glad you had a good adventure and didn't get hurt in that fall! Scary stuff. Gotta love the Twight-esque writing style. It takes a certain kind of climb to put a climber in the mood to write like that. -
[TR] Peak Argonaut - NE Couloir (with East Summit) 01/12/2025
Nick Sweeney replied to Alex789's topic in Alpine Lakes
Nice one! You know how to get after it. -
Great adventure. Thanks for posting! Almost makes me want to climb this route...
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first ascent Sloan Peak - [FA] Borrowed Time (WI5 M7)
Nick Sweeney replied to Michael Telstad's topic in North Cascades
Proud line, proud effort! Thanks for the stoke builder. That upper snow gully looks like the icing on an already very icy cake. -
The East Ridge of Inspiration makes for a rugged and unforgettable trip - it’s just so cool up there! Full TR with photos on my site: SPOKALPINE Gear Notes -Gear: Crampons, ice axe, 70m single rope, one set of nuts, cams .2-3 with doubles of 2 and 3. -Make sure to bring extra cord to leave on rappel anchors. -For pretty much all alpine rock routes in the Cascades, I prefer to use a highly breathable approach shoe like the La Sportiva TX3 along with aluminum crampons as my approach footwear. It was exceedingly hot during this trip and I really appreciated the breathability on the big hiking days. I find that Goretex or leather approach shoes tend to get wet and stay wet on multi-day trips, while breathable shoes will get wet and dry out relatively quickly. Strategy Notes -Terror Basin is located within North Cascades National Park and requires an overnight permit which you can get from the ranger station in Marblemount. -The approach and hike out deserve their own day on either end of your trip. -The glacier is mellow. Roping up is still a smart call.
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Thank you AAI and Jason!
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[TR] North Side of Yak Peak - Humbled Beginnings 02/14/2024
Nick Sweeney replied to AlexC192's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Speaking out of sincere concern and well wishes: I am seriously worried about you and your friend living for very long. You are in your first year of climbing and mention multiple epics and serious injuries. On this climb, you used a bunch of single point rappel anchors. There's other things you wrote that give me concern too, but I'll leave it at that for now. You seem to be making decisions like you are running out of time to climb... which you might be, if you don't start making more conservative decisions. If you slow your roll a bit, dial in the fundamentals, and make more conservative choices, you'll have a long climbing career and live to tell the tale. It would be a shame for a stoked climber like you to have (another) serious injury that takes you out of the game, or worse. -
[TR] Gimli - South Ridge III 5.9+
Nick Sweeney replied to Nick Sweeney's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Even with its location, it's still extremely popular. Tons of climbers and non-climbers alike up there! -
[TR] Gimli - South Ridge III 5.9+
Nick Sweeney replied to Nick Sweeney's topic in British Columbia/Canada
The road was chill, we had more than a Prius but less than a truck. No issues! -
This route is a bit off the beaten path, but undeniably classic and honestly pretty mellow for a 7 pitch 5.10a (guidebook grade). The perfect way to wrap up alpine rock season! Full TR with photos here: Spokalpine
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[TR] Kangaroo Temple - Northwest Face (II 5.7++ R)
Nick Sweeney replied to Nick Sweeney's topic in North Cascades
God damn! I was so scared on the first pitch that I didn’t even notice the second one being badly protected, though it totally was in retrospect. -
Lion Tamer is the Acid Baby of the Idaho Selkirks. Do it! Bring a strong partner and all of your lichenous choss wrangling skills. Full report/photos here: Lion’s Head – Lion Tamer (III 5.10c) – SPOKALPINE
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No snow gear needed currently. Do this climb!! Full TR with photos: https://spokalpine.com/2023/08/04/slesse-northeast-buttress-v-5-10a/
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[TR] Forbidden Peak - East Ridge Direct 07/22/2023
Nick Sweeney replied to Nick Sweeney's topic in North Cascades
NW Ridge/Face/Buttress/Arete is as good as it gets. Truly one of the best all-around adventures you can have as a climber in the Cascades. Do it! -
This might be my least favorite route on Forbidden, but paradoxically the 5.8 crux might be the best pitch on any of the classic ridge routes on the peak. Unquestionably worth doing! No snow gear is currently needed if descending the East Ledges. Full TR and photos here: https://spokalpine.com/2023/08/01/forbidden-peak-east-ridge-direct-iii-5-8/
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I thought this route was about as legit as a grade II 5.7 gets. Full TR here: https://spokalpine.com/2023/07/25/kangaroo-temple-northwest-face-ii-5-7-r/