Thanks for your TR, Christopher!
Dan and I had our own alpine adventure on the NW arete of Argonaut this past weekend, approaching and climbing to the summit on Saturday, sleeping near the summit, and descending Sunday. I am definitely glad we did it this way -- it made for two relaxed days without any need for headlamps and the snow on both approach day one and post-rappels day two was great for climbing, never too firm or icy.
We thought the climbing was really fun and the whole trip had good adventure factor. I felt silly wearing trail runners and carrying light mountaineering boots AND rock shoes but it worked well for me; I think if I'd been climbing a whole lot of 5.8 recently I'd probably have felt good in approach shoes/not needing a third pair of footwear. We brought a single rack and that worked for us for 5 long pitches with a tiny bit of simuling.
We were able to avoid MOST of the slide alder but luckily we weren't carrying skis and it wasn't the "trap you in place" variety so the handful of minutes of it didn't feel too tuff. We both switched to rock shoes for the "slab crossing" before the snow finger. The rock was sticky and great. There was snow under the big summit block so we didn't go thirsty with our summit bivy (beautiful sunset!). The descent made us think a little bit, but there are a lot of rap stations and trees and lots of beta. We did three single rope rappels and some 4th class downclimbing that could have been avoided...
Here are our pics in case they're helpful for people heading out soon or hoping to check snow conditions in the area (high-quality photos are Dan's):
Snow finger (that's a false top to it)
Snowfield on the descent before starting rappels:
Our second single rope rappel into the gully, we walked across 4' of flat snow then butt scooted/au chevalled the moat to get to the notch, rapped off tree on other side for third rappel:
The traverse from the bottom of the raps over to the south side of the Colchuck Col was BEAUTIFUL: