JP Peters

The climbs across the lake are very inspiring, Banks still has some gems left that we will be looking for in future seasons; as well as the surrounding Coulees. It was good to run into you and glad you got on Zenith. We had a pretty good laugh when one of your partners asked "how long we were staying?" and our reply was "until it warms up" it was worth sharing just for the look on her face. See you around.

Vern, we knew you were trying to find out the name a couple weeks before we climbed it- glad you did. Did you find out who put it up and when? just curious.

Mark, Thanks for the info. We had a perfect boot track which made it especially speedy with all the simul-climbed sections. It could go much faster than 12 hours if somebody was trying and had similar conditions. Hopefully we'll bump into you next season. -Joe Peters

Thanks for the write up Marlin. You put a lot of effort into the tr. Here is a video of some of my stuff.

Has anybody made an offer? 100 bucks.

I've been in AK since the 31st of March and have not been following the weather down here. Does anyone know if the North Side of D'tail is holding up? Looks like freeze-thaw this week and I might be able to sneak in and would like to back-to-back this and the Gerber Sink.

Fantastic.

Get a guide and find an appropriate adventure to your ability (IMHO there is a ton of BS in clubs, many people use it as an ego trip and a dating service). Maybe an alpine multi-pitch in the 5.9 realm. Tell him/her what your into and that you want to learn. You'll be able to be in an environment where you can soak it in and be safe. Basically learn from a pro then seek like minded partners (I'm of the Twight school of thought on partners- its sacred in the Alpine) That being said I'm self-taught like many others, but the learning curve took a bit longer by doing so. Shoot I'd love to have Barry Blanchard guide me around a day just to hear the stories. 2 cents.

Thanks I'll check that out.

DPS- We started it last night. Zipper is out hood is chopped off, got to bring in the sides and sew it up. About 4 hours into the project. I'll post up a few pictures later tonight.

Where do ya find that tape? I just googled Sigatape and a roll of it costs about as much as a new thermarest. Whats the name of the 3M version?

I use the FF Vireo UL for all my climbs and with success. However, a trip up to Shuksan this past summer got us caught out in the rain for 2 days. The kind of rain where you fill your nalgene up in a matter of minutes from drips the stream running off the tarp. Not exactly the Vireo's niche environment. I did some digging on the webs but have not found a synthetic bag like the Vireo so I'm going to make one. My wife is an excellent seamstress so it's worth a serious attempt. I'd like input on materials and patterns if anybody has also done some experimentation. I'm leaning towards Primaloft Sport and Pertex Endurance. In the meantime were going to chop up an old REI bag with Polarguard and see what we come up with. Input would be appreciated I know someone has had to have tried/botched this by now. -Joe

Which side of the state are you on?

Has anybody figured out a way to patch the platy's? I emailed Nalgene but they just offered to send a new one. I was thinking about those quick bike tube patches or maybe tenacious tape, but I don't want to poke a hole in my new play just for science. I've never given thought to the small .5L Nalgene's but I'll be getting one. Thanks for the insight.

Thanks for the post Dave. I carried the platy in my jacket as well and it works well. How did you rig up the adjustable sling? Also, have you figured out a good field patch for when/if the platy springs a leak? -Joe

How's the taste with the dromedary? I've been told they get a little funky. Any truth in your experience?

Excellent water holding capabilities yes, how about the boiling hot water part?

At the risk of being flamed for such a simple question... What's the best method you have found for carrying water on serious alpine objectives? Nalgene's with an OR cozy are the tried and true and what I have always used, but there has to be a lighter set up that still can take boiling water and doesn't require a dangling cozy and bottle. I used a collapsible Nalgene on Curtis Ridge this year with success but it sprung a leak on the following trip - not exactly confidence inspiring. I have not tried the Dromedary or Gatorade bottles, anyone fancy those? Other ideas?

That is inspiring climbing and you guys are tough as nails. 36 hours and 3000 calories, next time I think I'm doing something hard I'll use that as my mantra. Atta boys. ...36 hours....3000 calories...tough as nails...36 hours...

I wanted to add a few photos of Marlin since he does such an unrelenting job documenting our climbs. He selflessly has his camera out when I'm focused on something else and grabs some great shots on route because of it. A couple will be framed up on the wall from this trip for sure. Every night he writes notes in a small journal of the days events for future beta for himself and others while I've already closed my eyes to rest. Mthorman is the Energizer Bunny! Preparing for our day up to Curtis Ridge From the rappel point on Curtis Ridge. The wind was ripping and visibility nil. Stuck rope at the rap point. Snap! On the ridge exited about the weather window we just nailed. Some easy scrambling with the upper ridge in our face. In the final exit gully. Steep snow! Looking back with the Winthrop Glacier below.

Nicely done.

Trip: Dragontail - Triple Couloirs Date: 5/11/2014 Trip Report: The weather aligned with our schedules and we were lucky enough to get up the classic line up Dragontail before it disappeared for the season. Only one other party was on route and left several hours after we did, we could see them at the top of the second couloir when we reached our bivy site. Hidden Couloir step kicking was straight forward and quick. We soloed through the first bit of the runnels as well but set up a belay when they got too thin for fun. We belayed one full pitch plus a very short bit to just below the entrance of the second couloir. More step kicking up to the top second couloir and climbed un-roped until the snow covered slabs proved to be a little too spicy- a short quarter pitch and then un-roped to the summit. Entrance into the Hidden Couloir Top of Hidden Couloir Into the Runnels Snice Fest From the belay in the runnels Nearing the top of the second couloir Joe, Jason, Rich We had a fine time together many more climbs to come! Mt Stuart from the summit of Dragontail Gear Notes: Rack: 3 bugaboos, 2 knifeblades, 1 baby angle, 4 cams up to 2’’, several nuts, two pickets, few ice screws. Used everything. Approach Notes: Snow starts at the turnoff for Colchuck now and is a bit sloppy given all the traffic up to the lake. We walked a large majority of the lake to just below Dtail where we bivied. I don’t think it will be safe to walk on for very much longer give the temperatures this week.

Jeff and Goran, Nice climbing, you guys have had a great string of inspiring climbs. I sent Marlin another text with, "Jeff and Goran Strike Again!" Ha I think that is the second one in as many weeks. Congrats on some awesome climbs this season. Thanks for the TR. Enjoy SanFran Goran- best get to Yosemite! JP Peters

Top notch climb.

Jeff and Goran strike again! Excellent job