Linnaeus
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Everything posted by Linnaeus
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Partners for May - June, all days of the week
Linnaeus replied to Sam D's topic in Climbing Partners
Sent you a PM about climbing tmrw! -
Easier to check out my post on Mountain Project. Please contact via MP -- I don't get around to checking on CC as much. Thanks everyone. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/two-petzl-elios-helmets--30-each-free-shipping-for-both/111733321
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spring cleaning - climbing & mountaineering gear
Linnaeus replied to idratherbsurfing's topic in The Yard Sale
Phone call just made re: Helium draws, rack, balaclava, possible bibs. -
PM sent about Alpinist Magazines.
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I think this is a result of the anti rotation pin that you can see (bronze colored) at the base of the heel, which was a new "feature" when they transitioned to the Radical line from the older Verticals. The new Dynafits are made to only rotate one direction, if you try to rotate it in the opposite direction you can blow up the plastic, as evidenced above. When they first noticed this problem, they supplied different bronze pins that were designed to fail before the plastic did; then they made brakes mandatory on the Radicals and incorporated an anti rotation mechanism into the brake in order to prevent these failures. There is some more info to this effect on WildSnow. I had a blown up heel from the very first year of the new Radicals and Dynafit NA sent me two new heels that had the slightly new design with reinforced plastic down there.
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Grivel G-14, Charlet Super 12, BD Mako ( ALL SOLD
Linnaeus replied to Don_Serl's topic in The Yard Sale
PM sent on G14s. -
Grid / breathable fleece vest layer for cold days
Linnaeus replied to sportnoob's topic in The Gear Critic
Climbing with a thin vest doesn't suck. Colin Haley climbs in a vest all the time, so it can't suck that bad. I don't have much to add to your question because I live and climb in much different climates. I normally use a light weight polartec grid baselayer (REI brand) under my grid fleece hoody (First Ascent, which is a bit lighter weight than an R1). I don't run that hot, but that combo lets me do a lot of cardio without overheating. I normally ice/gully climb in a Gamma MX over that, which I'll put on after the approach sometimes on warmer days. -
Hi Friends, Like the title says, I'm looking for an Arc'Teryx warm synthetic puffy hoody. I already have an Atom LT jacket and want something warmer and with a hood. Arc'Teryx fits well, not really interested in other brands unless it was a downright bargain. Specifically, I'm most interested in an Atom SV, Solo parka, or Dually parka. Used but in good and serviceable condition is desired. Price will depend on the jacket and condition. Please reply here or send me an email or PM (email is preferred over PM). jklaucke atgmaildotcom Thanks!
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I would be cautious with the original Reverso, it doesn't provide great friction for catching lead falls, in fact I recall reading it was the worst or among the worst. For ease of belaying a second off the anchor, a Kong Gigi or CAMP belay plate are the easiest to move rope through. Works great as an emergency rap device, and has other uses too (i.e. emergency ascender).
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WTB: Arcteryx Miura 50 - Old Style, Tall or Reg
Linnaeus replied to DavePeterson's topic in The Yard Sale
Finally found one! -
WTB: Arcteryx Miura 50 - Old Style, Tall or Reg
Linnaeus replied to DavePeterson's topic in The Yard Sale
Still looking. Hope someone has one to part with! -
http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/spo/4954420736.html
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WTB: Arcteryx Miura 50 - Old Style, Tall or Reg
Linnaeus replied to DavePeterson's topic in The Yard Sale
I'm still looking! -
I wear a size 48 (US14) have the AKU equivalent of the boots you listed: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1129379/AKU_boot_opinions#Post1129379 I really like them so far. I mostly use them for steep water ice and alpine routes, not so much general mountaineering. They work well and have a carbon shank, Primaloft insulation, GTX liner, etc. Unlike some the models you mentioned, they have rollers instead of D-rings for the lower laces which is really nice feature. I was worried before I bought them because I wasn't very familiar with AKU, but the cost was about half of a Scarpa Mount Blanc GTX or Nepal EVO. I have very, very happy with my purchase so far.
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WTB: Arcteryx Miura 50 - Old Style, Tall or Reg
Linnaeus replied to DavePeterson's topic in The Yard Sale
Still (!) looking if you've got one! -
More data, had them out for a long day yesterday on Shoestring Gully on Mt. Webster in the White Mountains of NH. It is a classic moderate alpine climb for the NE - about 2000' gully, of which the last 1/3 had formed in with steps of WI2-3 separated by snow ramps. This time I did a thin wool sock under a normal mid weight hiking sock, seem to fill the boot volume a little better for me. Never had a single hotspot or problem, toes stayed warm, crampons stayed well fixed, the walk off descent down the Appalachian Trail was similarly uneventful. Then we went down to do a pitch of WI3 at a ice crag close by, again, boots worked awesome. With the caveat that this is still early in the life of the boots and their use, I would highly recommend them.
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Tried to edit the post above, but couldn't. Does anyone know if there is a time limit to edit posts? I wanted to remove the pics and sold item and add new pics. Here are the glove pics in case anyone is interested:
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BEST WAY TO CONTACT ME: I might not see PMs, and I'd rather not put my email up for web crawlers to find, so prob just best to call or text me at 774-twofivethree-two-zero-six-four. Thanks! Scarpa Inverno boots 8.5 english sizing (aka ~9.5 US) - very very light use. Soles are impeccable, liners are great (as you would expect from the lack of use). Automatic crampon compatible. $125! SOLD BD Virago gloves - GTX, leather palms/fingers. These are labeled "XL" but are NOT a true XL, they fit more like a M/L. Don't ask me why, but they def aren't XL (or I would be keeping them!) I Sno-sealed the leather portions last season. $40, or $25 if you buy the boots. I can get you a picture if you are interested. [img:center]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-33l9qES68ao/VEhPBztD1AI/AAAAAAAABQA/niPqJxzfAiw/s912/IMG_4987.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-aBprMFCjO74/VEhPExNSTpI/AAAAAAAABQI/qoH0EW3506E/s912/IMG_4988.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mZxA4_zQoh4/VEhPVGsX0kI/AAAAAAAABQY/Lg2VB97XJDE/s912/IMG_4989.JPG[/img]
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Got these out for their first climb on the Black Dike at Cannon, NH last weekend. 3 pitches of WI2-3 with some thin/rocky areas. I used an older BD Bionic crampon because they are a larger crampon that fit my boots well (size 48). Long story short, the boots were excellent. I had never worn them out of the house and I was comfortable all day, no hot spots, they climbed and walked well, scrambled over snowy talus as well as any technical boot can. I had standard center bars and the flex was a good balance of stiffness. They breathed "OK" which is to say I didn't notice any problems on a cold, dry day. Although they claim to be Euro 48/US 13.5 and not the typical Euro48/US 14, I had plenty of room. I would say these are longer than a Nepal EVO, more comparable in size to the older Nepal Extreme (I think the EVO and extreme fit differently). Overall, I've only had them out 1 day. But, I've had single climbing days ruined before because of poor boot fit and these were just plain great. I would certainly buy again and recommend them if they fit your foot and your intended use based on the above limitations. For <$250 new they were a downright bargain. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/10155775_10203574629469880_968955486059252405_n.jpg[/img]
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Hey, I have those MH pants with a bunch of crampon holes in them! But more seriously, great pants for tall thin folks, and you did a good job patching all the crampon nicks
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Sending PM now for Spokane Area guide.
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Lots of stuff for sale, package deals encouraged, buyer pays shipping. I prefer email to PMs, or text me se7en-se7en-fou4-253-2O64 4 alpine draws - wire gates both ends, mixed dyneema 60cm slings. $40 Scarpa Inverno boots 8.5 english sizing (aka ~9.5 US) - very very light use. Soles are impeccable, liners are great (as you would expect from the lack of use). $125 Kayland 6001 full gaitored boots. Mens 13. Well used but lots of life left. $30 Patagonia button up (Mens L), 2 wool blend button ups (Mens L), 1 cotton plaid button up (Mens L) - $25 for all. Mammut Approach shoes size 14, soles in good shape, don't fit my foot shape. $15 FiveTen Moccasym climbing shoes size 12.5. Light use, great shape and soles. $30 Fristschi Freeride Pro brake parts (one working brake, one for parts, one rear binding lock. FREE. PICTURES HERE: https://picasaweb.google.com/115786631519908906122/OutdoorsGear?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCLnRlcmlg5TiqQE&feat=directlink
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WTB: Arcteryx Miura 50 - Old Style, Tall or Reg
Linnaeus replied to DavePeterson's topic in The Yard Sale
Bump, I'm still looking! -
I ended up purchasing the AKU boots. Fit is good in size 48 for my size 13.5/14 feet. The finish and craftsmanship seem nice, maybe better than Scarpa Mont Blanc (which I think is not quite as nice as the Nepal EVO). I'll try to update this post later after I have some time on them. They will be used for water ice/ Northeast alpine climbs mostly, I just hope they are stiff enough. I read some stuff online that they may be slightly more flexible than i.e. a Sportiva Nepal EVO.
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I have an older set of La Sportiva Nepal Extremes that need a resole. I've been holding out in part to find a deal on a set of lightly used Nepal EVOs (size 48 - rare!) instead of getting these well worn boot resoled. However, STP has a boot that is similar, at least in concept, to the Nepal for much cheaper: http://www.sierratradingpost.com/aku-montagnard-gore-tex-hiking-boots-waterproof-insulated-for-men~p~7364x/ I googled around and there doesn't appear to be much info on these, i.e. reviews, on the net. My gut is that I should just continue to hold out for or spend more for La Sportiva Nepal EVOs. However, if folks have good things to say about these boots I would consider them because they are a stellar deal $234 with free shipping. My main concern is the similarity (or not) to the Nepal series, and the quality. I already know that a Nepal (or Scarpa Mount Blanc) will work for my uses. (Or maybe I should get my Nepal Extremes resoled - I have new soles from Sportiva, but need to find a good cobbler to do it - any recs?) [img:center]http://s.stpost.com/eccstorefront/product_images/7364x/f_7364x_4.1.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://i.stpost.com/aku-montagnard-gore-tex-hiking-boots-waterproof-insulated-for-men-in-orange-black~p~7364x_01~460.2.jpg[/img]