Linnaeus

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Fantastic, stoke-generating TR!

Year old thread... I know. I have been going fast and heavy by wearing my ski boots (Sportiva Sideral 2.0) for long approaches, carrying my climbing boots. But it is heavy and makes for a cold change over (twice!). However, finding patches of good snow and good skiing is certainly better on the way out with a real ski, boot, and bindings. For shorter approaches, Silvrettas continue to be the binding of choice for me. However, I have thought about making some boot soles that would attach to the ski boot like a crampon, and then have tech fittings to integrate with my touring skis.

Black Diamond Mission 75. Relatively inexpensive, just works. Not the fanciest, but perfectly functional. Has a side access zipper if you don't like tube-only access in the big sizes.

Ed-the-Ted: These older Gen2/3 Nomics have a hole under the pommel to securely attach some cord for a tether. You will notice many Nomic users adding some 5mm cord through this hole for their tethers. This looks like recycled 6mm Mammut Contact sling material instead of cord, but same idea. It is different than the 2018 redesigned Nomic pommel. See pictures here: https://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/11/old-nomic-and-new-nomic.html

I’d grab the darts, irvis and stubai if you don’t mind shipping at my expense.

I am local (Sandpoint) and would like to grab the free Khamsin packs, can certainly put them to use! Will send Pm now.

Still looking for long center bars for my Darts, thx.

What were the old toe bails? I am looking for a set of non-loop wire toe bails (i.e. like the G20), could potentially use your old ones. Thx.

Have a set of older Darts that don't fit my size 48 boots, looking for a set of long Petzl center bars to make them fit. They are the old side lock heels (which Petzl seemed to abandon rather rapidly) so if you have a set of 'normal' heels you want to sell with the center bars I would consider it. Otherwise I may just grind off the side lock tabs and put my Grivel heel levers on. Also looking for a set of G20 toe bails (no loop) or wide Grivel looped toe bails. The standard loop bails do not fit my size 48 feet. I know I can get some of this stuff new, but in general in life I try to get used items. I figure someone must have some well-worn 'pons that aren't much for climbing anymore but that the above parts are still usable. Feel free to text 774-two-five-three-2O64 if that's easier than the PM function on CC. Thanks!

Sweet TR! The traverse has been on my tick list for years.

Awesome awesome awesome TR! Thanks for sharing.

Awesome TR, thanks for sharing. The definition of a successful smash & grab.

I'll grab Winter Dance, Washington Ice, and Alpine Climbing Techniques! Will send PM now.

Yes, done it many times. Works great but I never compared it directly to other pots. I had a Primus Eta whitegas stove that had an integrated large pot with a lower heat exchanger, it was much more akin to a whisperlite than a canister system. I then got a standalone Eta pot with bottom heat exchanger and used it exclusively with a whisperlite, and added the MSR outside heat exchanger too!

Long term update: I ended up getting rid of these boots last winter. They have been replaced with LS Nepal EVOs. My issues with the AKUs were as follows: -The heel of the sole has rocker, which makes crampon fit a little different from normal. It also meant that I could not fit them into my Silvretta bindings, as the heel lever didn't have enough reach between the rocker and my size 48 boots. -The sole is longer in a given size than other boots, i.e. Nepal. In effect moving the front bail a little farther out past your toes. -The quality of the boots I still thought was high, but the design/execution just wan't quite as nice as some of the competition. If you just go cragging or climb easier ice these issues would never present themselves.

Going rate for a used but good condition set of Nepal EVOs seems to be around 200-225$, sometimes cheaper, sometimes more, depending. I just got a set of Nepals used a single time for $200 on eBay. The benefit to the newer Nepal EVOs is that they are Goretex, unlike the older Nepal Extremes. (Well, technically they maybe aren't "older" as they are still sold in markets outside NA). So that may change the cost/benefit ratio of having them resoled. For reference, I had a set of Nepal Extremes that needed a resole and I chose to give them away instead, but the uppers were pretty beat.

Looking for a used but good condition Nozone 55 pack, in size M or large. I would consider trading for my Miura 55 if interested, otherwise I have no qualms about buying outright. Checking PMs here is tough, so feel free to just text or call if you have one seven-seven-four.253-twoZEROsixFOUR. I would also consider similar offerings from Cilogear, older MEC Alpinelite, CCW, etc. Thanks for looking, happy climbing.

For sale are several books. I listed a bunch on MP here: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/guide-books-aajs-cajs-ajs-mountaineering-literature-more-/112495207. However, I figured it would be worthwhile to post the PNW relevant books on CC as well. Shipping is $3 for first book, discounted for multiple. Squamish Bouldering (Bourdon/Tasaka) - great condition $30 Rock Climber's Guide to Skyline Boulevard (Bruce Morris) - great condition $5 Waterfall Ice 3rd Ed (Joe Josephson) - good condition $50 SOLD PHOTOS HERE: https://goo.gl/photos/3MB9568Q2qhwEm9c6 Thanks!

I haven't used it, however, Colin Haley used it on his "Infinite Spur Laps" last summer. Seems like it may be less durable long term than a metal connecting bar, but enough for very large alpine objectives.

Pm sent.

The best technical boot I know of made in truly big sizes are the La Sportiva Baruntse, which they make in a euro 50.

The REI flash will work for your uses. The Cierzo is a nicer pack. I agree with the other posters that the shoulder straps are the weakest part of the pack design. I have considered taking the straps off an older TNF pack and swapping them onto my Flash18, but there are always more pressing projects. But, once climbing the straps have worked OK for me. If they are uncomfortable while climbing that means there is too much in the pack, at least for the routes I commonly do (5.7-5.9 multipitch). For the approach, I would carry the rope 'backpack' style next to or on top of the pack, so that the extra weight isn't through the straps. I don't have either, but my general impression is that the BD Speed 22 is also a good option, as are the older Nozones. Arc'Teryx Fly and Black Diamond BB or Bullet have also been used by my partners and have seemed nice. Depends on the approach/climbing ratio.

We made it out for an awesome morning of moderates. Can't wait to get back some day!

Hi Friends, I am currently in the Seattle area (East Renton) for a wedding this weekend. My wife and I are hoping to get out for a 1/2-full day of climbing on Friday (tomorrow). We thought Index might be the best for some moderate trad that is relatively close by, but are looking for partner(s) to make it a bit more fun and get some inside knowledge. We are hoping to alpine start tomorrow, would like to do moderate multi pitch routes. Happy/prefer to carpool. Best thing to do would be text or call me at ***, and we can work something out. If you are seeing this late at night, don't worry you can still call/text and we will figure something out. Thanks and happy climbing everyone