Linnaeus

Yes, done it many times. Works great but I never compared it directly to other pots. I had a Primus Eta whitegas stove that had an integrated large pot with a lower heat exchanger, it was much more akin to a whisperlite than a canister system. I then got a standalone Eta pot with bottom heat exchanger and used it exclusively with a whisperlite, and added the MSR outside heat exchanger too!

Long term update: I ended up getting rid of these boots last winter. They have been replaced with LS Nepal EVOs. My issues with the AKUs were as follows: -The heel of the sole has rocker, which makes crampon fit a little different from normal. It also meant that I could not fit them into my Silvretta bindings, as the heel lever didn't have enough reach between the rocker and my size 48 boots. -The sole is longer in a given size than other boots, i.e. Nepal. In effect moving the front bail a little farther out past your toes. -The quality of the boots I still thought was high, but the design/execution just wan't quite as nice as some of the competition. If you just go cragging or climb easier ice these issues would never present themselves.

Going rate for a used but good condition set of Nepal EVOs seems to be around 200-225$, sometimes cheaper, sometimes more, depending. I just got a set of Nepals used a single time for $200 on eBay. The benefit to the newer Nepal EVOs is that they are Goretex, unlike the older Nepal Extremes. (Well, technically they maybe aren't "older" as they are still sold in markets outside NA). So that may change the cost/benefit ratio of having them resoled. For reference, I had a set of Nepal Extremes that needed a resole and I chose to give them away instead, but the uppers were pretty beat.

I haven't used it, however, Colin Haley used it on his "Infinite Spur Laps" last summer. Seems like it may be less durable long term than a metal connecting bar, but enough for very large alpine objectives.

The best technical boot I know of made in truly big sizes are the La Sportiva Baruntse, which they make in a euro 50.

The REI flash will work for your uses. The Cierzo is a nicer pack. I agree with the other posters that the shoulder straps are the weakest part of the pack design. I have considered taking the straps off an older TNF pack and swapping them onto my Flash18, but there are always more pressing projects. But, once climbing the straps have worked OK for me. If they are uncomfortable while climbing that means there is too much in the pack, at least for the routes I commonly do (5.7-5.9 multipitch). For the approach, I would carry the rope 'backpack' style next to or on top of the pack, so that the extra weight isn't through the straps. I don't have either, but my general impression is that the BD Speed 22 is also a good option, as are the older Nozones. Arc'Teryx Fly and Black Diamond BB or Bullet have also been used by my partners and have seemed nice. Depends on the approach/climbing ratio.

We made it out for an awesome morning of moderates. Can't wait to get back some day!

Hi Friends, I am currently in the Seattle area (East Renton) for a wedding this weekend. My wife and I are hoping to get out for a 1/2-full day of climbing on Friday (tomorrow). We thought Index might be the best for some moderate trad that is relatively close by, but are looking for partner(s) to make it a bit more fun and get some inside knowledge. We are hoping to alpine start tomorrow, would like to do moderate multi pitch routes. Happy/prefer to carpool. Best thing to do would be text or call me at ***, and we can work something out. If you are seeing this late at night, don't worry you can still call/text and we will figure something out. Thanks and happy climbing everyone

Sent you a PM about climbing tmrw!

I think this is a result of the anti rotation pin that you can see (bronze colored) at the base of the heel, which was a new "feature" when they transitioned to the Radical line from the older Verticals. The new Dynafits are made to only rotate one direction, if you try to rotate it in the opposite direction you can blow up the plastic, as evidenced above. When they first noticed this problem, they supplied different bronze pins that were designed to fail before the plastic did; then they made brakes mandatory on the Radicals and incorporated an anti rotation mechanism into the brake in order to prevent these failures. There is some more info to this effect on WildSnow. I had a blown up heel from the very first year of the new Radicals and Dynafit NA sent me two new heels that had the slightly new design with reinforced plastic down there.

Climbing with a thin vest doesn't suck. Colin Haley climbs in a vest all the time, so it can't suck that bad. I don't have much to add to your question because I live and climb in much different climates. I normally use a light weight polartec grid baselayer (REI brand) under my grid fleece hoody (First Ascent, which is a bit lighter weight than an R1). I don't run that hot, but that combo lets me do a lot of cardio without overheating. I normally ice/gully climb in a Gamma MX over that, which I'll put on after the approach sometimes on warmer days.

I would be cautious with the original Reverso, it doesn't provide great friction for catching lead falls, in fact I recall reading it was the worst or among the worst. For ease of belaying a second off the anchor, a Kong Gigi or CAMP belay plate are the easiest to move rope through. Works great as an emergency rap device, and has other uses too (i.e. emergency ascender).

http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/spo/4954420736.html

I wear a size 48 (US14) have the AKU equivalent of the boots you listed: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1129379/AKU_boot_opinions#Post1129379 I really like them so far. I mostly use them for steep water ice and alpine routes, not so much general mountaineering. They work well and have a carbon shank, Primaloft insulation, GTX liner, etc. Unlike some the models you mentioned, they have rollers instead of D-rings for the lower laces which is really nice feature. I was worried before I bought them because I wasn't very familiar with AKU, but the cost was about half of a Scarpa Mount Blanc GTX or Nepal EVO. I have very, very happy with my purchase so far.

More data, had them out for a long day yesterday on Shoestring Gully on Mt. Webster in the White Mountains of NH. It is a classic moderate alpine climb for the NE - about 2000' gully, of which the last 1/3 had formed in with steps of WI2-3 separated by snow ramps. This time I did a thin wool sock under a normal mid weight hiking sock, seem to fill the boot volume a little better for me. Never had a single hotspot or problem, toes stayed warm, crampons stayed well fixed, the walk off descent down the Appalachian Trail was similarly uneventful. Then we went down to do a pitch of WI3 at a ice crag close by, again, boots worked awesome. With the caveat that this is still early in the life of the boots and their use, I would highly recommend them.

Got these out for their first climb on the Black Dike at Cannon, NH last weekend. 3 pitches of WI2-3 with some thin/rocky areas. I used an older BD Bionic crampon because they are a larger crampon that fit my boots well (size 48). Long story short, the boots were excellent. I had never worn them out of the house and I was comfortable all day, no hot spots, they climbed and walked well, scrambled over snowy talus as well as any technical boot can. I had standard center bars and the flex was a good balance of stiffness. They breathed "OK" which is to say I didn't notice any problems on a cold, dry day. Although they claim to be Euro 48/US 13.5 and not the typical Euro48/US 14, I had plenty of room. I would say these are longer than a Nepal EVO, more comparable in size to the older Nepal Extreme (I think the EVO and extreme fit differently). Overall, I've only had them out 1 day. But, I've had single climbing days ruined before because of poor boot fit and these were just plain great. I would certainly buy again and recommend them if they fit your foot and your intended use based on the above limitations. For <$250 new they were a downright bargain. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/10155775_10203574629469880_968955486059252405_n.jpg[/img]

I ended up purchasing the AKU boots. Fit is good in size 48 for my size 13.5/14 feet. The finish and craftsmanship seem nice, maybe better than Scarpa Mont Blanc (which I think is not quite as nice as the Nepal EVO). I'll try to update this post later after I have some time on them. They will be used for water ice/ Northeast alpine climbs mostly, I just hope they are stiff enough. I read some stuff online that they may be slightly more flexible than i.e. a Sportiva Nepal EVO.

I have an older set of La Sportiva Nepal Extremes that need a resole. I've been holding out in part to find a deal on a set of lightly used Nepal EVOs (size 48 - rare!) instead of getting these well worn boot resoled. However, STP has a boot that is similar, at least in concept, to the Nepal for much cheaper: http://www.sierratradingpost.com/aku-montagnard-gore-tex-hiking-boots-waterproof-insulated-for-men~p~7364x/ I googled around and there doesn't appear to be much info on these, i.e. reviews, on the net. My gut is that I should just continue to hold out for or spend more for La Sportiva Nepal EVOs. However, if folks have good things to say about these boots I would consider them because they are a stellar deal $234 with free shipping. My main concern is the similarity (or not) to the Nepal series, and the quality. I already know that a Nepal (or Scarpa Mount Blanc) will work for my uses. (Or maybe I should get my Nepal Extremes resoled - I have new soles from Sportiva, but need to find a good cobbler to do it - any recs?) [img:center]http://s.stpost.com/eccstorefront/product_images/7364x/f_7364x_4.1.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://i.stpost.com/aku-montagnard-gore-tex-hiking-boots-waterproof-insulated-for-men-in-orange-black~p~7364x_01~460.2.jpg[/img]