NickM

Any interest as the season nears?

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Thanks John, that all makes sense to me. I was mainly interested in the direct route because I hoped to catch the face in conditions to ski. If this year allows, I'll give it a try and report back. That's if it ever snows again...

Good condition, with some scuffs here and there. Between all my other sharp things I don't seem to use this much anymore. Not exactly sure what these are going for these days. $60 shipped within the states? In Bend, OR. Thanks!

PM sent. Coming to that zone from Oregon for the next 4 days and would be psyched to join.

PM sent. Solid last two lines on your post! I'm in Bend as well, sounds like we may share some interests

Awesome looking trip, thanks for putting this up. You may have camped too high to get the angle, but if you happen to have any photos of the Mowich face area, I'd be really interested in a glimpse. Oddly enough, I met your partner Greg a month or so ago on top of the Cooper Spur. Small world.

Hoping to make more friends to climb and ski Rainier with in the coming month. This weekend could be quite nice from the looks of it, and I have Friday-Sun off weekly and can swing more if needed. I'm capable of and would enjoy the more standard-ish routes, and would love to push it further with someone more experienced than myself. I've climbed and skied some of the bigger lines in Oregon recently, though am still but a kiddo in my mountain career. Hope it's kosher to link to another forum: http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=34312.0 Thanks!

It's probably too much to ask, but I'd like to sneak in a Sandy Headwall trip this weekend. Anyone seen or heard about the snow/ice coverage in the choke? If I lived in PDX I'd just pull out the binoculars, but I'm down in Bend. Thanks for any info.

Hi there. This is definitely feels like the 'does it still go?' time of year. I was on the North Face/Spur on 5/10, and there was ok coverage up there. No pictures, but I had plenty of room to turn the skis in the chimneys. I do remember thinking there wasn't a ton of snow in the choke for this time of year (surprise). Not much help but at least it's something for ya.

I'm curious how often folks approach a Sandy climb from the west. There's info out there on getting to the Sandy glacier ice caves from the Top Spur trailhead, but not much by people continuing up. It looks like a really cool way to get to the mountain, and I'd like to get in there for a climb and ski soon. Just curious if there's any tricks or good advice out there on the approach or navigating the lower glacier, as the area has some complicated looking terrain. The closest I've been to the area is the Reid, from Timberline. Thanks!

Awesome photos. Hoping to be in that area soon, with some definite flotation. I'm curious about the trail/approach conditions; it sounds like snowline's around 5k, how's life below? I haven't been on this approach route and am wondering what level of shwack/scrambling to expect. Thanks!

Awesome mid-weight, mid-width skis for touring in many kinds of snow, but I haven't been using them enough recently. Used touring around 10 times. The edges are not immaculate but excellent, and the topsheets show some marks from carrying through bushes on the backpack. Mounted on the line for dynafit radicals, 297 bsl. 2 holes drilled around centerline for voile ski crampons. New BD nylon skins, trimmed to fit. Basically perfect. The combo of a mid-width waist and big shovel tip seemed like a nice deal. Photos should show the shape for ya. I'd call it a user-friendly medium flex. 23m sidecut, 9lbs. Great weight for touring while still being an actual ski. Buyer pays shipping. $350 OBO Thanks

Thanks Water, awesome to know there's a better route up through the lowlands. Can I ask on which side of the creek was the N. Fork approach route? While we're talking approach, I believe that after a regular/big snow year, the S. Fork waterfall-death gully fills in with avy debris and makes for an awesome approach well into the Spring. It just needs to snow...

No worries. - I didn't summit the pinnacle. When alone and clueless with steep alpine climbing, I usually stop where the skiing does. The pinnacle is a rime ice-cake; to be honest, not sure how you would protect it. I'd imagine you'd want sharp things in both hands. - I went through Pamelia Lake, though unless one is set on skiing that line, I would never recommend the western route. Getting from the PCT to treeline involves punching up steep dirt through forest for a very long time. I tried the S. fork of milk creek in hopes of avoiding the bushwhack, but that gully appeared a choss/mud waterfall death trap. "Oregon High" recommends the ridge between the two creeks, which is how I got up and back down. The N. fork looked less gnarly, but still very unappealing. - I skied from the gully just north of the west rib, though headed over to the sunnier slope that makes up the gullies northern wall. - It's interesting, I think a summer ascent of Jefferson would be the burliest thing ever. I find climbing in the Cascades quite punishing and scary until you reach snow or ice, then life is so good.

Trip: Mt. Jefferson - West Face/Jeff Park Glacier Date: 1/31/2015 Trip Report: Ascended and skied the West Face of Mt. Jefferson on Sunday, 1/31. While I stopped at the summit ridge, I took some photos of the Jeff Park Glacier climbing route that might be of interest to some folks. If our winter stays so Spring-like, it seems like a great time to be up there. I'll just say a few things about conditions on the West Face. With the warm temps, clear skies, and light wind, I was blessed with a nice, firm climb up and some great corn on the way down. Timing is a bit hard to manage on that thing; by the time the snow's warm and ready, cliffs are starting to release ice grapefruit death-rockets. With careful terrain selection and a quick decent, I felt ok. Finally, the snow line is around 6K, which is unfortunate when you park at 3. Sometimes it's best to forget certain parts of the day. There may or may not have been rock climbing around waterfalls, and sinking ice picks into dirt and very large trees. I don't remember. Looking down onto the glacier: The summit ridge and pinnacle after topping out the glacier: Looking down the West Face. Ridiculously good spring skiing conditions, though it was tricky to balance all the sun, aspect, wind, and elevation factors needed for a perfect descent:

Email sent about pics of packs

Sent email about Pack

Got any unused, beater (or both) pickets laying around? I'd be happy to take 2-4 off your hands. Any brand, any length. Thanks.

Would like this thing. Sent ya a message

Bump. Offers welcome

Spring is here and I'm not using these guys, so they're up for grabs. Fits skis up to 110mm, and only works on new binding models (FR Pro, Eagle, Explore). Used just one or two days, basically new as the photos show. Retail is $100, I'm looking for $55 shipped.

Spring is here in Oregon and it's time to get it on with the Volcanos. Looking to pick up some sharp metal things first... Mountaineering axe: straight shaft, steel, 50-60cm. BD Raven is a good example. Would also consider any type of random, cheap axe, as I'll eventually need two. Standard crampons: Steel, moderately technical, plastic clip in back. BD sabretooth or Grivel G12's are good examples. Voile ski crampons: 110mm Thanks. The beater and cheaper the better, as this stuff holds up pretty good. PM me with what ya got!

It's hot in OR, the high Sierra is calling your name! Thought I'd post this on here in case anybody in Oregon could use a ride to the Sierras. I'll be driving from Bend to Mammoth Lakes on July 30; flexible a day or so both ways. No return trip, and I can take up to three people. If you're interested in Tuolumne/Yosemite (I'd recommend the first right now), I can drop you off at a YARTS bus stop that will take you there. I could also be persuaded to run you up the pass to Tuolumne. Split gas cost, so around $50 - $30 depending on how many people join. So that's it, hope to here from you! -Nick