Jeremy.0

Cleaning out older gear that either no longer fits me, or I have since replaced, or just don't use anymore. It's all used and has been well cared in its prime and still functional, but is a bit older now and probably not stuff I'll make much in the way of trying to sell. A few notes on a couple of items. I don't really want to piece it out and deal responding to multiple messages and stuff, so I'm hoping somebody just wants to take it all as I don't want to put much more effort than creating a post into putting it all in the pack and putting it on my porch for somebody to take it. Oherwise its less effort me to just throw in the donation pile for good will. Pickup in Monroe, WA. Gregory Makalu Pro size M (70 L pack) MSR Hubba Hubba 2 (stuff sack is ripped and it has some small patches on the mesh body) Mountain Hardwear Sub Zero down Jacket size M Arcteryx Alpha SV Size M. The same tape is coming off in some areas. Probably can send in for a warranty, I'm just too lazy to. Considering how expensive these jackets are, I'd think it would be worth it to somebody. Mammut 10.5 x 60 M rope Smartwool Mountaineers Socks Size L OR MT Baker Shell Mitts Size L Black Diamond Momentum Harness Size M 5.10 Anasazi Verde climbing shoe size 10. 5.10 climbing shoe size 10.5 (don't remember model name but its basically a entry level velcro type shoe). There may be some other smaller things I find that I might throw in as well.

Pair of Black Diamond Rage tools. One adze/one hammer. They have leashes that are removable if you don't want them. Still have plenty of climbing life in them-I just don't use them anymore and haven't for a while. Asking $75 for the pair OBO.

Potentially interested in sahale. Pm sent

I feel like just about any softshell would work. OR cirque pants and enchaintment jacket is what I took and pretty much lived in the entire trip, then added a light down jacket when it got cold and the big puffy jacket came out at 14 camp and above and the puffy pants on summit day. I put on my hardshell jacket once and never used hardshell pants. In general I'm a fan of softshell over hardshell in that they are just more comfortable in how they fit and are more forgiving to stuff like crampon point snags, plus they are usually cheaper to replace than goretex if you thrash them.

I agree with what they said. A night at Muir and moving up to IF the next day was the most enjoyable Rainier climb I have done. It shaves 1000 ft and at least an hour off the summit bid, which you can use to either sleep in a bit or get ahead of the crowds. It's never a bad thing to bring a shovel, but I have done it without having one and without much issue found a vacant tent platform on a busy summer weekend. no guarantees you can find a vacant one though.

I never have used the stiffer cord but have been told it's a little easier to slide when not loaded and releases a bit easier after being loaded.

Ditto to what others have said. I bought a GoPro specifically for Denali and i wish I would have put the money to upgrading my phone instead for pics and video. The newest ones might be an improvement over the one I have, but the sound was very muffled inside the waterproof case and footage super shaky, so most of the footage I took was not worth watching.

Cloud cover wasn't an issue. Even on cloudy days it would somewhat charge. The solar panel itself did okay, although it was small, but the little power pack that comes with was the issue. It had a male USB connector where you Unfolded it, and Then plug it to the female USB connector to the panel. The fold out male USB part it would frequently come out of contact and not charge (see middle image). It was brand new too, just a crappy design so It was just difficult to put on sled, pack, or on top of tent without it coming out of contact. The anker one just seemed more robust and we never had issues putting on sleds, etc.

I brought a small goal zero solar panel to keep the GoPro and phone charged. Worked for my purpose but was very finicky to get it to work. and A team mate bought one of the larger anker ones off Amazon (which I liked a lot better) for his phone and in-reach, which he was using a lot more electronics than I was.

Was looking to be cool and wet a couple months back with a la nina watch, but that has since shifted to a more normal outlook now.

It's been a while since I was up there but maybe halfway up pitch 2 on the far right there was a block that people would sling and use for a rappel anchor and even belay anchor. Using that It can be done in a total of 4 single raps. I recall the anchor being far from textbook, so maybe it has grown out of favor

This may not be your issue, but if your boots are wet at all on the outside, try coating them with Nikwax or something to add some water repellency to keep the outers dry so they breathe better. I only get blisters when the outside of my boot gets wet, even with a goretex boot. The goretex liner keeps the water from seeping in, but with a wet leather outer, the boot doesn't really breathe anymore since there is little to no gradient (difference in moisture content) from a damp foot to a saturated leather boot outer that is required for moisture transport to occur. Keeping the nikwak coating up has helped keep the outside of my boots dry, which in turn has cut down on pretty much all my blister issues. As will others suggestions about antiperspirants, sock changes, drying your boots, etc.

Permits aside, Colchuck could also be an option.

We climbed Dome a few weeks ago as part of the Ptarmigan Traverse, so I don't have experience following the "trail" uphill, only downhill. We never crossed the creek near there, and stayed on the north side From about 4600' down to Downey creek (best guess on the numbers, I could be way off) and did as you mentioned, staying in the trees as much as possible. I'd recommend doing that if at any point the trail disappears (it did several times for us) and the depths of slide alder hell looms ahead of you. Good luck.

Climbed it last year. Was back up in Alaska a month ago doing the tourist thing this time. Seeing Denali, talking with some climbers in passing, and seeing your recent pics kind of make me "miss the misery". Congrats!

If you don't have any experienced partners, then the Mountaineers or Washington Alpine Club both have basic classes which are popular (There's plenty of opinions out there you can google for better or worse out there; I'll just leave it at that). Most any guide service will offer some sort of basic program as well, which will cost more, but you'll have certified guides as instructors.

Memorial day weekend is when we started and I thought we picked a good time. In addition to what other people said, a nice thing about that time frame was there were enough people ahead of us schedule wise that there was a nice boot pack for parts of the route and we were able to roll into at least a semi-established camp almost every time. Words cannot describe how happy I was to not have to dig a campsite out at 17.

Yeah understandable. I was originally looking the guide route as well until I talked a friend into going. I think one big thing I would have done differently was how I should have trained a bit more. Having to dig a camp out in the cold at 17 after the climb up was one of the most exhausting things I have done. -Probably with a guide service they will take care of this all, but having a meal tent I thought was worth the weight to have some place to congregate on rest or weather days. -Booties are worth it -I was always fighting chapped/burned lips. Lots of lip balm. The inside of my nose got fried and was irritated almost the whole trip. be vigilant about sunscreen.. -not sure the remedy but our fingers would swell a bit, and with the dry air, the skin would crack next to our nails. it happened to most of our team. Maybe some lotion of sorts? -A steri pen cut down our snow melting times quite a bit -From what I saw, the guides seem to provide pretty good food, all things considered. I think it's definitely worth taking some extra food you know you'll like, since some days that your stuck in your tent all day, having a meal your looking forward to goes a long way to boost morale. There was no such thing as too much hot chocolate. Anyways, good luck to you.

I don't have any direct experience with the guide services, but his perspective may be helpful with what he says about guide services. http://www.alanarnette.com/7summits/denalifaq.php There is the Exposure Alaska company, which offers expedition support in different forms. (We used their 15 day food package). They might have some transportation support. http://www.exposurealaska.com/denali.htm I was on a private climb up there this past year in 2015. Personally, I was glad that we didn't go a guided trip. From our perspective, paying for a guide really is paying a lot of money for somebody to organize the logistics and to cook your food and boil water for you. Based on our time schedule, we moved up to 17k for our second summit attempt in what looked to be a small weather window between storms and our last chance. Only a few teams moved up with us, and we were able to summit. If we were on a guided trip on our time schedule, we would not have summitted. I liked being able to have control of my own destiny.

Few items that I used on Denali this year and all worked great and kept me warm up there but I don’t have plans on needing them again. Everything is used but in great condition and has plenty of days/ nights out in the cold ahead of them. Feathered Friends Frontpoint Jacket-Medium, Black-$250. Feathered Friends Peregrine Sleeping Bag (-25 F),Long Red,-$400 (will include compression bag). I think this has a goretex shell. OR Alti Mitt-Large, black-$90 Also have a (comparatively) lighter duty down jacket than the FF I’m looking to part with. Mountain Hardwear Sub Zero Jacket, -Medium, Blue-$60. Buyer pays shipping, or can arrange for pick up in Seattle or possibly Spokane areas when I’m in those areas. Send PM for more info or pictures.

Yeah those days at the airstrip were a straight up lesson in brutality. I think your summit day was the day we moved to 14k camp. I'm pretty sure your summit views were a lot better than ours haha. Anyways congrats to you and your team as well.

Trip: Denali - W. Buttress Date: 6/6/2015 Trip Report: Climbed and summitted Denali via W. Buttress. We had a lot of marginal to bad weather to deal with, and barely were able to sneak to the summit in semi-marginal conditions (forecast wind chill low was-56 that day and had several inches of snow fall below us at 17k; made the descent down the autobahn a bit harrowing) after having to abandon our first attempt due to high winds and retreat down to the 14k camp for 3 days due to a storm. We spent a full 20 days on the mountain, with 4 of those being spent waiting at the airstrip for weather to clear so the plane's could come in. It's been kind of an usual year in that before we were there high winds were preventing anybody from summitting until the very end of May (the success rate was less than 1% when we checked in), and since we left the weather has been very mild and lots of teams having success (57% as of today on the season). All in all, the mountain was in really good condition. A few sagging snow bridges on the lower Kahiltna on the way from the airstrip to the base of ski hill, but after testing them they were solid. Quite a few holes in the ground passing around windy corner that seemed a bit sketchy, but otherwise the mountain was in surprisingly good condition considering Alaska had a very mild winter like we did. My team mate wrote up a pretty lengthy trip report http://mightydaughertys.blogspot.com/ At some point I might do something similar. Gear Notes: Do not recommend Whisperlite stove. Compared to the Dragonfly we had, it didn't perform nearly as well. There is no such thing as too many wet wipes or pringles Approach Notes: K2. TAT has Paul and his cajones of steel, and in hindsight had we gone with TAT we might have been able to get off the mountain a bit earlier since there was one day that TAT was flying and K2 was not.

Potentially interested. A friend and I (both experienced) are looking to climb something around that time frame before our denali trip and rainier is one were we're looking at. Interested to hear any set plans or people looking to get plans together.

Cascadian Couloir on Stuart (when it has snow in it)

Hey guys, I am getting a group together for a W. Buttress next year as well. We are shooting for target dates of being on the mountain May 22-June 8, with the possibility of extending a few days beyond for those that want to plan on a few days longer (there is at least one of us limited to those dates). As of now there are several people that are pretty firmly committed (4) and a few others that have expressed interest we are still trying to sort through and gauge how interested and qualified they really are. We were hoping to get a group in the 6-8 range for the sake of margin of safety in numbers and for the sake of general camaraderie, so we have a few more spots still open for the time being. Shoot me an email for more info if your interested. jeremyosguthorpe@gmail.com