christophbenells

i get 20% off wholesale at all times from patagonia, 10% off wholesale from BD, twice a year BD runs a shop employee special at 20-30% off wholesale, i've even seen companies do %40 off wholesale for limited times. i am not truly deserving, just work in a ski shop.

Usually you get pro deals in the 20-30% off wholesale range, so cheaper than cost for retail shops. They are still making money on it though, most of those manufacturers have at least a 50% markup from production cost to wholesale, then of course another 50% markup from wholesale to your MSRP price.

as big of a floorless-style tent as you can find, coleman 2 burner white gas stove, real cooking utensils (get at thrift store in ANC) rubbermaid storage boxes to store food in, clear so you can see what is in it. extra closed cell foam pads for pot holders, seats, etc. big soup pot for melting snow 3 person tent to yourself Ipad w/ tv shows

there are piles of them in the hangers at the air services. they will let you use them for no charge if they're nice (sheldon air service) or charge you $15 to rent it if they're cheap (TAT [of course tat has to pay for that fancy radar tech somehow], K2)

this, and the garbage thing is why i had no qualms about paying the denali fee last year.

oh, and also there is cell phone service at 14k now too! times are a changin.

i really don't think that is that bad... and you know that fee is only for denali and foraker right? i think paying $300 to clean up after everyone, provide free medical support, and the ability to initiate a rescue at a moments notice is totally fair.

i second sheldon air. they may not have the fancy planes and tech that TAT and K2 have, but holly will offer a much more personalized experience and bake you cookies. its the dirtbag choice, about $50 cheaper if i remember correctly, and they fed us while we stayed there...

Yep, he had a daisy chain girth hitched to the belay loop that wore through the belay loop. He went to go on rappel and the belay loop snapped. Now you see everyone with there PAS girth hitched through the two tie in points, for good reason. I tie in through the two tie in points, because, well, thats what your supposed to do.

i'm pretty sure skinner died from having a sling or daisy chain girth hitched to his belay loop for a long, long time. he didn't check the wear that was happening underneath the hitch.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1144422/Re_TR_Mt_Hood_North_Face_11_6_#Post1144422 well i think this answers that question pretty well!

if you get the "polar vortex" conditions that usually happen in late nov. early december, preceeded by a rain/snow event than the conditions should come in good for north face gullies to be pure ice. I would say a solid week to two weeks of polar vortex temps to get nice thick, safe ice.

bump for guy named ham-balls selling used underwear

i would encourage you to hike up to triangle moraine or illumination rock first, just to get experienced with whats happening up there. No real experience needed for that. it can be climbed in november and december, i have had some of the best conditions up there during those months, but that was after I had climbed it about 10 different times and spent many other days up there skiing on many different areas of the mountain. December in a low snow year has great climbing, but hard ice that requires real crampon skills and proper equipment, plus all the other skills that mountaineering requires.

would love to climb there soon, the rappel picture...are alot of anchors there set up that nice? suprised to see those nice chains.

cool, i love that place. great camping! anyone ever done the long routes on steinfeld? dome (thats whats its called right)

seriously people, I bought these on pro deal, i will let them go for cheap!!!

NO REASONABLE OFFERS REFUSED! Great set of gear for lots of cascade action. Boots, size 44, some wear on toes from rock climbing. 82/100 condition crampons, full auto, great for ski boots. Some wear from volcano rocks. 87/100 condition

you're gonna need rigid sole boots that hold crampons well, an ice axe and a helmet. all the necessary layers, gps, headlamp. and what you need to know is that you're gonna want to wait until its snows and covers up all the rock up there, then wait till the avalanche conditions are stable, and you have nice weather. then get up real early and start climbing.

google it

i don't think people are actually reading what the OP is posting... he wants this set-up to approach climbs in the ruth gorge...using ski boots for that is not needed. going up to 11k on denali...definitely want ski boots for that. if you are good, you can ski in mountain boots. I have skied 20~ degree slopes in the setup pictured above, you just have to get used to leaning forward correctly. Xc skiers have even less support then mountain boots, think of the stuff that went down on 3 pins in places like the Sierras in the 70's. Weren't the Skoog guys skiing all those cascade peaks in mountain boots back in the day?

try the backcountry snowboard trader group on facebook

not sure where diepj is going in AK, but the most popular climbing venue there is the central alaska range. I think that Spantiks and Phantom 6000's (popular boots in AK range) are much warmer than tlt's. I havent used the 6, but have used the 5 for the last few years. Double climbing boots are really the best option up there, as lots of routes have rock climbing for several pitches, and descents that don't bring you back to your skis. bringing skis up and over routes there is not really an option on many mountains. I did use TLT 5's, with closed cell foam under the liner, and 40 below over boots for a successful Denali West Buttress snowboard descent in May this year.

those arcteryx boots look pretty fancy, what are they comparable to in terms of warmth?

depends on where you are climbing i guess, but if you're in AK range TLT's are not really warm enough anyways...