christophbenells

yes this is ideal for an approach ski to get to ice and mixed climbs. Also works well as a uber rugged XC/bushwacker setup! Not really for downhill use, for volcano climbing and peak bagging use an AT boot. I have done some nice turns in the mountain plates though...

https://www.voile.com/voile-mtn-plate-kit.html These work well with mountaineering boots, Use t-nuts to put into your ski so you don't throw a shoe, and replace the "pin" part of the system with a nut and bolt and some loctite. Non releasable in a fall (unless its a really big one....) These work great for approach ski bindings, I don't know why Viole doesn't market them as such. I bet you could fashion a telemark cartridge to these to make a reactive feel like modern tele bindings.

Beautiful photo, this is what draws us to the mountains

I would say, Valdez ice climbing and skiing. Ice climb if it is storming, ski tour if it is sunny. Or you can do both in one day. Highest of quality in both regards. Fly to ANC, rent a car and about 3hrs drive, or fly direct to Valdez for a few hundred more. Ice climbs are about 20 miles outside of town, skiing starts about 30 miles outside of town.

All the folks that i saw up there with those boots looked really hot and uncomfortable. They strapped the snowshoes on, unzipped the boots and clonked along the lower glacier. The reason they were wearing them is because they bought all their gear for the 7 summits quest, and most of those people are very European. I think overboots on baruntse/phantom 6000/spantik-esque boots is the way to go. Down booties inside 40 below overgaitors is the way to go for campwear. Its what everyone in the know does up there. Interesting though the weight difference is not that much. How does the overall bulk of the 2 compare? FWIW i only wore my overboots on the early-morning ascent from 14k to the summit (summitted from 14 camp), on top of stock dynafit tlt-5's (notoriously cold boots) and of course daily around camp

how about Banks Lake? anyone out there seeing anything?

a couple of climbs are in on the eliot glacier moraine on mt. hood. 4+ hours and ~5,000' ski from car...

there is cell phone service at 14k camp now. verizon i believe, people were getting 3 bars, full on.

Just moved back to PNW after 2 year hiatus, need some fresh climbing partners. Rock, Ice, Skimo. PLease and thank you. You can see me old TR's upon this website or view my ticklist upon the mtn proj.

not the anchors below the Dodd off width, the one to the left of that.

There is a very large, very loose block at the top belay on Free For All. it is about 4 x 3 x 3 feet and wobbles a couple inches with a slight tap of your foot. The ledge that this block sits on is slanted at about 45 degrees. It is the block the that makes up the climber's right side of the ledge that you stand on. You stand on this block at the belay.

There is a very large, very loose block at the top belay on Free For All. it is about 4 x 3 x 3 feet and wobbles a couple inches with a slight tap of your foot. The ledge that this block sits on is slanted at about 45 degrees. It is the block the that makes up the climber's right side of the ledge that you stand on. You stand on this block at the belay.

whats the difference between a fixed cam and a bolt? -fixed cam: ugly, dangerous, obtrusive -bolt: safe, damages rock, pussy shit I say BOLT IT, don't look back.

this year the "normal" route is the pearly gates, and the typical ski descent is down the old chute, so you shouldnt have to worry about skiing above climbers. Plus you will want to be skiing down later in the day, most climbers will have already descended by then. The tough thing with skiing hood is timing, gotta climb up early enough to where its not too hot w/ rock/icefall, but gotta descend later in the day when the snow softens up. Be ready for all conditions. The top 75' feet is usually less than a ski lenghts wide, so it is always dicey. an unarrested fall will likely end in serious trauma. there is a good spot to ski from just at the bottom of the old chute, and skiing from the hogs back can be a great time too. I personally like to go down either the west crater rim and to the north of crater rock and down the zig zag to miss head, or down the hogs back to white river headwall and down white river glacier traversing out around 7,500' to t-line lodge.

whenever I climb with someone with cord-o-lettes it takes them forever to set up belay stations. They are usually the same people that have petzl adjust butt floss style, knives on the harness, and all them other do hickeys. I use the rope for a several reasons, less stuff on gear loops (i dont do gear slings) 70m rope means extra rope for anchors/pas/longer rappels easy, simple and no extra gear needed. May end up a bit heavier, but much more streamline. Not that cord-o-lettes don't have a place, i may consider taking one or some extra webbing on a route that i'm not sure of the descent options or rappel station tat condition etc. Crags that utilize trees for top anchors you need some cord, etc. So, I guess, it depends for me. I have never owned, used or carried one, nor felt the need for it, but many people i climb with always have it on their harness. If leading in blocks, not sure how you would use the rope efficiently though...