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      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   11/10/22

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bedellympian

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Posts posted by bedellympian


  1. Today (Sat 10/3) Smith was the busiest I've seen it since last fall. Seems like the park has thrown out all COVID precautions, even the grass overflow lot was open and mostly full. Still weirdly warm and smokey though. 


  2. I recently bought this. It was on sale on Backcountry.com and I needed a new belay jacket. I had heard some good things about Norrona in general being a high quality brand from the Euros I climbed with in Canada last winter. It's one we don't see much of here so its kind of an unknown and I figured I'd give a run down as it is a very nice piece, well suited to Cascades winter climbing and a resonable price too.

    Pros: light weight, warm (relative to other 100g primaloft jackets I've tried this feels very warm), lower cost than some other high quality options like Patagonia or Arcteryx ($260), has several large pockets (2x chest outside of insulation, 2x hands inside insulation, 1x mesh inside jacket), double zipper, and MY FAVORITE... the hood is awesome (best single draw cinch i've seen, has a brim to shelter from spindrift, zips up to the nose, really seals in the warmth).

    Cons: I would prefer a second mesh pocket inside the jacket, the giant uninsulated chest pockets don't seem very useful to me at this point.

    Overall: I think this is a really well designed and quality belay parka. 


  3. If you're really looking for coaching and interested mostly in aerobic development I recommend Trails and Tarmac https://trailsandtarmac.com/coaching/ as an alternative that is a bit cheaper. They mostly train ultra runners but I have a couple mountain guide friends who have worked with them and seen significant results. One of their owners Ryan Ghelfi is a former mountain guide and still does a lot of skimo stuff.

    • Like 1

  4. You could purchase an uphill athlete training plan. Paying a monthly fee is for people who really need hand holding... either because they aren't willing to put in the effort to read and learn themselves, they are lazy and rich, or they are really pushing their limits and need someone with lots of experience to hold them on that edge without going over. 

    If you've read TFTNA and played around with training already you're most likely going to be able to coach yourself and see significant gains.

    • Like 1

  5. I have a lower quality Showa knock-off. They're durable but moisture builds up inside and kills the warmth too quickly for long days. I save them for wet leads. 

    I've typically climbed alpine routes in the OR Arete which is good but less durable than I'd really like. 

    I bought a variety of gloves off steepandcheap (you get what you pay for) the other year to try. Two were OR and they both wet out and then fail to dry... pretty terrible. One was BD, not super durable but stayed dry longer and dried out sooner. I would really like to support OR over BD but BD does seem to be doing a better job on the gloves right now. 

    Cowolter I'll be trying those soloists and looking into the new Showas.

     

    • Like 1

  6. With some of the next generation hard shells (stretchy, breathable) coming out (NF Futurelight seems to be the most advertised) I'm curious if folks have tried them or seen good unbiased reviews/comparisons. I've typically worn softshells in true winter conditions as much as possible and pulled out the goretex for wet ice or technical climbing with spindrift/precip only when I really need to. Curious if this new new stuff lives up to the hype and could be a quiver-of-one outer layer...


  7. Pictures:

    Sunrise near top of Teewinot

    IMG_0783.thumb.jpg.ab044b2cb2ad5322e651e561a358e6b8.jpg

    Lucas on Teewinot

    IMG_0785.thumb.jpg.6918c6c70078c5bcc032c030006e7c03.jpg

    Raps on 11,8XX

    IMG_0787.thumb.jpg.03d52128a04153e5abea360e375a2f0c.jpg

    Lucas descending from East Prong on very firm snow.

    IMG_0789.thumb.jpg.2aa1f5d63aadce0c5601af4c4d67b68b.jpg

    North side of the Grand from Owen

    IMG_0792.thumb.jpg.b8d2f7e9055d4ecbe7e61843298cfd41.jpg

    Lucas scoping the Grand

    IMG_0793.thumb.jpg.00e416de1f46d52296b8043d923d9912.jpg

    Start of N Ridge of the Grandstand, separate team ahead of us...

    IMG_0794.thumb.jpg.af33dc2421a44700ef368cc3b4c8f2a2.jpg

    Icy chimney pitch on the N Ridge, dude below is pulling an overhanging chockstone with minimal ice-free hand holds (not your typical 5.8)

    IMG_0796.thumb.jpg.a47c62ec34efd3c10dabc5fcc0776646.jpg

    Looks like easy traversing to OS but an ice gully separates us from that route and we end up going straight up after some faffing.

    IMG_0799.thumb.jpg.5eac1fd9b092affbb46b13d5c00082bd.jpg

    Peaks on L are the Cathedral Group (Teewinot, Owen, Grand)

    IMG_0803.thumb.jpg.cc3d5c87bfc3e460cec095d3cafb182f.jpg

    Rock sporings buttress... very cool featured granite, long approach, tons of routes

    IMG_0810.thumb.jpg.05fe3263f2971ff2564f0f1052c32387.jpg

    secret Teton Canyon Zone

    IMG_0815.thumb.jpg.8ee3864139a27984831a57aba536efaf.jpg

    Dog Wall (4p, 5.12+ or 3p 5.11) goes up the edge of the black just above Matt's head and traverses L on a ledge a little before following bolts straight up and finishing on the giant roof just L of the sun.

    IMG_0816.thumb.jpg.5c85bf2dac4b52d334476fbb9986781b.jpg

    Morning clouds at CMC camp

    IMG_0835.thumb.jpg.a6a4e3c8cdf8edc0f0ca9c53b2f2b732.jpg

    Standing water post-storm in the tent

    IMG_0836.thumb.jpg.445c2fddcee0c3f84b1b83e8905fb033.jpg

    Of course the day just cleared perfectly after I'd retreated and shwacked my way to the trail... at least the sun was out for some swimming.

    IMG_0841.thumb.jpg.123310317ab70a60bef6deb862e7e8d3.jpgIMG_0844.thumb.jpg.e77c1185519be3a33ba64da73faca599.jpg

    TR soloing the shiite out of Blacktail Butte

    IMG_0847.thumb.jpg.284f9565e2623347a4bc6e6477dd3db5.jpg

    • Like 1

  8. Trip: Tetons - Cathedral Traverse + some other stuff

    Trip Date: 07/18/2020

    Trip Report:

    I spent the past week in the Tetons. On Saturday my friend Lucas and I attempted the Grand Traverse in snowy early season conditions. We did fairly well, minus a route finding snaffu on Owen, but were slowed down a lot by snow/ice and route finding difficulties on the North Ridge of the Grand. We had bivy gear but opted to bail from the Lower Saddle.

    A couple thoughts for would-be suitors... If you want Sierra-esque conditions this is a mid-August to early-September objective. Rolo's beta page on the Pataclimb site is good but not super detailed and would be worth looking up some more pictures if you are trying to onsight like we were (I'd been up the Grand before but never on the North and Lucas had skied Garnet Canyon once). Italian Cracks and N Ridge in general is not obvious splitter climbing, be prepared. You need to be super stoked if you want to walk right past an easy trail down and continue up Middle and the rest of the traverse, or don't be cause you've already done the best parts (so I was told, and tell myself to soothe my battered ego :crash:).

    The next few days were spent climbing at various crags (all have directions on MP, but identifying routes isn't always easy)...

    Rock springs buttress is AMAZING and also an amazingly sustained steep long hike for a crag. I took 2 hrs and was worked. I think camping up there would be sweet and the rock is awesome but S/SW facing so its really a morning-only venue. You can also take the tram or gondola from Teton Village but that costs a lot of money. 

    Teton Canyon's Shady Wall is a short approach and shady all day (big surprise). It's also HARD (sandbagged 10+ warmup, 1-2x hard 5.11, several 12s/13s) and on weird rock (featured granite with flowstone (like limestone) over the face in places). There are other cool crags in Teton Canyon, we did a cool multipitch limestone sport route in a wild location one day but its hard to describe the location and kind of a locals' secret, maybe ask around?

    Blacktail butte in the NP is also nice limestone sport cragging on vertical edges. People talk sh!t about it but given that I don't get to climb limestone often I thought it was nice and had some good routes. 

    I also went to solo the CMC route on Moran with a leisurely overnight at the CMC camp. I bushwhacked instead of canoe'd, which was a nice mini-cascades flavor, and ended up going in one way and out the other to see both options for going around Leigh Lake. The guidebooks all say to go out the Valley trail and on the East side of Leigh Lake and then bushwhack around the N side of the lake to the gully/creek leading to the the CMC camp, but on a map it looks much better to take the Paintbrush trail around the West side of the lake and then bushwhack in from there. Turns out the guide books were correct (who'da thunk?) and going the E side of Leigh is much more efficient although longer mileage (it's still a pretty decent shwack with neck high ferns, steep side hilling, and downed trees). Anyway, all the jungle blundering was for naught as I got rained on all night at CMC camp and was socked in by cloud all morning. I hiked out only to have things turn perfectly bluebird for the entire afternoon... c'est la vie.

    Will post some pics later this week. 

    Gear Notes:
    Approach shoes and an extra pair of socks for when they wet out with the snow travel and post-thunderstorm shwackage.

    Approach Notes:
    What the guide books say...
    • Like 1
    • Rawk on! 2

  9. Warning: Kyle took a lot of these and I was being a goof

    Leaving the car

    IMG_6253.thumb.jpg.d99df55f6679414b6a8347616b8e4533.jpg

    Switching to boots at the snow line above Glacier Basin

    IMG_6256.thumb.jpg.93faeb9915033c089a3387f5d1d1d482.jpg

    Coming up from Carbon

    IMG_0706.thumb.jpg.4e0481b5f11a40241dea479aba3e9ac3.jpg

    Bivy sites on P Ridge

    IMG_6266.thumb.jpg.6faab485f56afef9c1fac2dd3b7b13a8.jpg

    Route pictures pre/post sun, note moon which helped with night nav

    IMG_0704.thumb.jpg.04b1e814ae4094b778e050fc801977d0.jpg

    IMG_0707.thumb.jpg.bed0c74e0bf1d673f44c9681e1f17c76.jpg

    Schrund pitch L of regular start involved loose conglomerate that was verglassed and frozen just enough

    IMG_6271.thumb.jpg.301704fcc4933c16edcd585a8ee8a01c.jpg

    Coming up lower snow section

    IMG_6276.thumb.jpg.348c36e845e15092cb0b80356ae8976c.jpgIMG_0718.thumb.jpg.ab3f320c5c7d7b2b479e3c73607763c7.jpg

    Icey ramp leading to rock step

    IMG_6280.thumb.jpg.63fe76d0f3ce5d75c9826baf23778d06.jpgIMG_0720.thumb.jpg.98e415a5231ac665703eae63d3944787.jpg

    rock step

    IMG_6283.thumb.jpg.0522de77e426dceba2c2ed7e36865456.jpg

    Kyle suffering on the upper slog

    IMG_0726.thumb.jpg.32d114e5752692a3b35bbac125ba50d2.jpg

    I think I was eating a bar but the silhouette is funny

    IMG_6285.thumb.jpg.7c634ba92a878c5e12438db0dac74ae3.jpg

    Sundog

    IMG_0730.thumb.jpg.0c33307b380e46db2ff5e1eb513239ab.jpg

    Not many pics of the descent, didn't stop on Lib Cap, just kept going

    • Like 1
    • Rawk on! 1

  10. Trip: Liberty Cap - Ptarmigan Ridge C2C

    Trip Date: 07/11/2020

    Trip Report:

     

    Kyle Tarry @ktarry and I climbed Ptarmigan Ridge round trip from Whitewater Campground July 11/12. We originally planned to climb it 12/13 with a bivy at the standard location, but increasing winds and cloud forecast for Saturday night convinced us to just do it in a push starting the evening of the 11th. I think we benefitted in our late season climb from the conditions resulting from this more cloudy and cold summer.

     

    We drove up after Kyle got off work and left the car at 8:30pm, did the St. Elmos-Winthrop-Curtis-Carbon approach in the dark and arrived at the start of the route at dawn (water drip on the Curtis and brew stop near the normal bivy spot). The route was in thin conditions compared to other pictures I've seen but the glacier crossings were pretty easy and direct. We climbed a small (20m) ice/mixed step that was pretty gross to cross the schrund, a little L of the typical start, which saved some elevation loss. Firm and sun-cupped/rock-smashed snow made for relatively easy movement above this. There was some low angle ice that took good screws starting the ramp towards the rock step variation, but even this did not require much sustained front-pointing. The rock step seemed longer/steeper due to the low snow there (again compared to other pictures I've seen, and based on the fact that I was past the crux when the fixed pin appeared). We topped Liberty Cap and descended the Emmons (good condition for this time of year, I hear). Visibility dropped significantly as we reached Camp Schurman and it even snowed a bit as we descended the Interglacier. We were back at the car by 7:10pm on Saturday and slept about as well as you would think.

    Pros of the single push strategy: cool/dark glacier approaches, day packs don't weigh much, we nailed the weather window

    Cons: we were pretty tired (cons win)

    Gear Notes:
    one picket (not used), 3 screws (used a few places), 4 nuts (not used), 1 knife blade (used on rock step), 30 m half rope

    Approach Notes:
    standard White River approach to N Side routes

    • Like 2
    • Snaffled 1
    • Rawk on! 6

  11. There are plenty of forest service roads E of the Park, that's the car bivy spot for a lot of guides and other dirt bags.

    I'll be there around the same time. I don't have a partner everyday. HMU if you want to meet up for a some climbing.

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