JDCH

http://www.atmos.washington.edu/data/rainier_report.html I'm hoping for the best... It doesn't look good, but I am more comfortable retreating from muir where I have been before than schurman, where I have not. Just trying to map out my options, and I am wondering if the crevasses/bridges are passable, or if we should go for the DC instead.

Hello all, So I have some friends coming up from California this weekend, and they want to try to climb Rainier, the original plan was the Emmons, but based on what I am hearing/what the weather is doing, the emmons is not really in good shape right now. Conveniently, I put together a route plan for the ingraham flats from my foray up there in april, but it dawned on me that it may not be in good shape either... Has anyone been up there recently? Is the ingraham passable? Or should I suck it up and make a new route plan for the DC? thanks!

+1 I would pay for shipping

That link doesn;t work for me...

+1

I am free that weekend of the 22nd-24th. Let me know if you don't find anything else. Drop me a line and I would be happy to get out and climb something.

Are you thinking of climbing on friday or leaving Seattle on Friday? I would love to get out, but I work till noon on friday

Thinking of heading up tonight and climbing tomorrow AM, until I read the NWAC forecast, I have only been up there in later June, I am sort of assuming it will be a no go up that gully?

Do you think the Avy danger will be too scary on the approach?

The advantage of the spot however is being able to check in with loved ones at home to let them know that you are safe and/or have completed your goal. I have used the spot all over the Cascades, New England, and Russia, and I have had no problems or issues whatsoever. Correct me if I am wrong, but it appears as though the PLB (at least the one that you referenced) does not allow any contact outside of emergencies. The annual fee is certainly worth it(at least to me) to be able to let the ol' lady at home not worry quite as much when I venture up into the mountains.

Went and had a look- road closed at salmon la sac cg.

Does anyone know how close I can get to the trailhead? Is the road clear? I called the ranger station and no one answered... Thank you!

Awesome, thank you very much.

Does Anyone know if the log crossing is intact at the Eldorado creek trailhead? I know that the road is impassible at mp 17, I just am hoping to cut down the chance of walking two miles to find out that I have to turn around... Thanks!

Does anyone know if the log crossing is intact?

Went up to Muir on Monday- No flotation required, on the way down it so windblown and icy that I put my crampons for most of the way down the snowfield

Kurt- My two buddies went and did the NF of chair last Saturday, (while I had food poisoning from a funky enchiladas ) They told me it was mostly a steep snow climb, with a breakable crust and only VERY short sections of Ice. They had trouble placing decent protection for most of the route until they were in the trees. They did say however, that the NE Buttress looked beautiful and in the sun and they wished they had done that instead. I am heading up there tomorrow to do the NE Buttress, I will let you know how it goes!

Anyone want to climb something in the alpine tomorrow? I am thinking either Chair North Face or the Tooth, PM me if interested

So, I borrowed my buddy's skis for the winter while he was in flatter places. He has Silvretta 404 bindings. A couple weeks ago while skiing up around chair, I broke the heel riser on one of the bindings (see photos below) I took the ski to Second Ascent and the guy there told me I was SOL, and that he couldn't order me a new part. I am not someone who gives back things that were lent to me broken. I need to fix this ASAP. I really appreciate any suggestions. The Broken Piece: Where the Piece is Missing from: And this is what the other one (not broken) looks like:

I completely agree, but It's the same price as the firstlight, and the same weight, granted it may be bigger, but I only need to fit 2 people. So for weight and cost to warmth, I think the firstlight is a better choice (for me). It seems like the only drawback is the single wall's potential for being wet, but I think I'll take my chances and give it a shot.

Thank you for all of the responses! It looks like the price is right on the firstlight if I go the tent route. DPS, did you think it was exceptionally cold to camp on snow with the betamid? I have a WM alpinlite, and I am also concerned that it will get wet and lose its loft. Do you bring a groundcloth or just deal with the wet/cold?

Anyone used these? I have been struggling to use full length skis with mountaineering boots all season, and its... well, sloppy. I am 6'2, 220, and I have been using 179 cm atomics with silvretta 404s. Great going up, really terrible going down. I understand that this is generally the case with skiing in mountain boots, but it looks like these Kong Grimper approach skis could be a bit easier on the way down. Thanks!

Did you find that the vestibule was necessary when you were in Chamonix? Or was it big enough to fit the two of you+ gear without it? Thanks!

Awesome, Thanks for all of the great suggestions. I think I may still go with the firstlight, it seems like my concern of not being able to fit is not an issue, more likely I will get damp a few times. I can handle a little moisture with that kinda weight, as long as I can fit inside! Thanks!