alpine et

Trip: Mt Thomson - East Ridge Indirect Date: 6/30/2013 Trip Report: After a failed winter attempt at Thomson earlier this year, I was motivated to return and get to the top. The conditions to and past the Katwalk were cruiser, with only small snow patches. Snow took over soon after and stayed with us until Ridge Lake, where the south facing traverse above Alaska Lake was again melted out. A snow finger delivered us to Bumblebee pass where we scoped out the rest of the approach. We opted for the east ridge route to save time, but ended up doing a variation with slabby moss, lots of trees and downsloping holds for a few hundred feet. We termed it the East ridge indirect. All in all - great day.... conditions are excellent out there now.... not sure how bad the walk off is when its all scree, but the foot glissade down was great. From what we saw, west ridge should be totally dry. full writeup and pictures here. Gear Notes: We didn't need crampons, but also had super warm weather.... might be nice to have some Al ones in the coming weeks if it cools off.... Approach Notes: PCT to bumblebee pass. read the beta you brought until you understand it, unlike us.

Howdy, We climbed N. ridge Baker on June 8. After now unpacking all gear that was with us on the trip, we're still short one ice screw. If you find a BD express screw, I can tell you the size and initials written on it, as well as provide a 6 pack of a beer and a firm handshake. For those looking for conditions, it's been a few weeks now, but navigation was striaghtforward through the lower glacier - certainly went over some bridges, but all felt very solid. We made two pitches on the ice, and then did our best to move slowly by pitching out 3x50m of hard snow above. Sketchiest snow bridges were present up high crossing from the firm snow on the north ridge to underneath the seracs you walk around to get onto the last snow slope. A few will be gone soon, and one we already had to throw tools on the other side and step up on a very trusting right foot...Other options weren't explored much, but could include more vertical ice. thanks Erik

My understanding is that glide ratio does not change with altitude, but speed does. Glide ratio is the relative speed forward versus downward through the air. These speeds are both linearly related to air density, so the glide ratio remains the same as the air thins. (Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.) Lowell, I think you are correct - below is an excerpt from a website detailing high altitude soaring. It describes how the best glide ratio is unchanged at altitude, but the speed changes. I believe best glide ratio is just the ratio that maximizes distance, so is basically the same as the glide ratio you'd reach while base jumping if your aim is to get out as far as possible, which is usually the goal??! http://www.ssa.org/myhome.asp?mbr=4616398811 As we climb to higher altitudes, the air becomes thinner, or less dense. However, the indicated airspeed for stall, minimum sink, and best glide remains almost exactly the same. Some errors do creep in at the higher altitudes, but they are not larger than a knot or two. At 31,000 feet in our example, the minimum sink speed will still be near 50 knots IAS, and the best glide speed will still be near 60 knots IAS. The angle of attack of the wing at these indicated airspeeds will be the same as it was at sea level. The thing that has changed is the speed through the air mass (true airspeed). It is 100 knots in our example situation, and since there is no wind, the ground speed will also be 100 knots.

squinting... I don't think so - I never really realize it until I'm back at the car and the stinging starts up. more I'm thinking it through, more I'll probably see what a dr. has to say... and thanks - I'll check out those other Julbos - I don't mind throwing down more money at all, just want to make sure they'll actually be stronger / better fit thanks

I was up there mid-May, and there was snow about a mile or so down from the TH. I would assume much of that is gone already.... I wouldn't plan on being able to ski any of the road at this point... and a shameless plug for a blog I don't have ads on: Coleman Deming TR

nope, no meds, and since this is a recurring issue I suspect it's something rather fundamental. No one has come jumping out with some specialized expedition style glasses, so I guess the only thing I can do is minimize leakage... i'll give that a whirl this weekend... looking like another one that'll test out the setup well....

Yeah was out this past weekend on the Sulphide, and it wasn't very windy at all. I guess I'll hope there is some leakage going on, and will be extra vigilant...thanks for your thoughts.

from the sounds of it, the road is in fairly rough shape: http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=28694.0

thanks for your responses - I feel like I do have a good seal around the edges - I'll double check though, to make sure.

I've been using Julbo Colorado glacier glasses for a few seasons, as they were the strongest I could get at 2nd Ascent. I still come back from every glacier trip with bloodshot eyes and lots of irritation - clearly on the exposed parts of my eye. I'm fairly meticulous with keeping them on tight. Anyone have tips for real strong glacier glasses? The ones I've been using have a 5% visibile light transmittance.... I don't see much that is lower - perhaps that is not the key thing to look for? Seems all decent pairs claim 100% UV protection.... I'd like to retain a decent color cast, if possible, as about half the reason I'm out there is to take pictures... thanks!

don't see a date right off for this accident, but perhaps this is the group mentioned with the avy incident... http://missoulian.com/news/local/missoula-ice-climbers-survive-fall-from-mount-rainier-cliff/article_b0a13dae-c80b-11e2-8b4d-001a4bcf887a.html

got in touch with the forest service - NF23 is closed at milepost 47, though she couldn't tell me where that is measured from, since you only drive 36 miles total from the turnoff from 131 to the trailhead. She said that NF23 didn't get you very close at all to the TH....she didn't seem that familiar with the area, though. The closest SNOTEL site I see is about 600' above the TH at Potato Hill: http://www.wcc.nrcs.usda.gov/reportGenerator/beta/view/customSingleStationReport/hourly/702:wa:SNTL/-167,0/WTEQ::value,SNWD::value,PREC::value,TOBS::value

Has anyone been up towards Killen Creek TH recently? The most up to date information I get from the forest service is snowlevels at 3500' on the south side of the mountain in mid-April. I'm hoping that by now in mid-May, snowlevels have gotten up to 4500' where the TH is located? If anyone has climbed up from the TH recently, I'd also love to know if snow is continuous up towards Adams Glacier... planning on pulling a sled in for kicks to set up a camp to climb, but was curious what conditions I'd run into... thanks

came across this: http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=28531.0

This might be the dumbest thing I've ever read on this website. Which guide service do you work for Kurt so we all know which ones are hiring the best and brightest? Perhaps you can click the link in his signature. It seems you might need a guide to help you along during your journey on the internet. I'm available to help if you'd like, though perhaps you feel that because you don't have the requisite skills in html and css you shouldn't be allowed to use it...

can it be backwards? I'm no expert, but I thought most breathable materials just depended on capillary action through some thin (non-directional) hole, and that together with some sort of water repellent finish was enough to keep the water on the correct side...curious? I have no experience with your tent, but you can always re do the seam sealing to see if that helps?

make sure you check out the road and fire closures... last I checked they added about 6 miles one way to the approach...

Great conditions on Saturday. We let loose a few wet slides coming down at 1:00... but they were only when we ventured onto steeper terrain, and only the first two inches that slowly growled down. The wind kept the snow from getting mushy... otherwise would have been junky and perhaps deeper wet slides, all the way down.

it's already spring

I use an Osprey Variant 37 as well. I'm sure most single day pushes I could get by with a pack in the 20 liter range, but the pack cinches down well (you could leave the brain off too if you wanted). Others have detailed other packs to look into...Only issue I've had with this pack is it's not easy to get into any pockets with skis in A-frame (but is possible) and when fully packed for a 2+ night trip, don't try and look uphill with a helmet on. Not happening. I've started carrying a .5L nalgene clipped to my shoulder strap with a biner. It's great... I'll fill it up at each stop after I've had a swig from my platapus inside, then I have quick water access on the go. It could still freeze, but is less susceptible than a camelbak hose given the larger amount of water and lower surface area etc. I've had it get slushy, but never freeze.

amazing pictures... thanks for sharing. That one of the moon is just fantastic!

Jason thanks for your story and sweet image. Funny you should mention Patagonia, as it's still up in the air if we're going to hit NZ (till now my preference) or Patagonia. We had planned a climb of the NW ridge of Aspiring, as this is more in line with our abilities at the moment, but it seems this SW line on Aspiring and the seemingly difficult lines on Cook (summitpost states the standard route is harder than Liberty Ridge??) might make a climbing trip more fruitful after a few more years kicking it in the Cascades. I'll go to Patagonia now and walk around, because I don't think I'll ever climb anything serious there anyway!?

unless Dchromey is speaking from experience from a recent trip, I'd bring floatation of some kind. Last year early season on St Helens was almost an epic for some folks in our party who did not bring snowshoes. postholing on alll the flat approach and even more so on the flat walk out. Bring slowshoes and stash then at the base of the climb for that walk out... better yet bring skis.

Bummer - we're planning on going from mid-late December through mid-January. Weather is that unpredictable, even during those times? I know how it goes with the Cascades... May and June you're pushing your luck, but by July there are usually ample windows... same go for NZ? When is that sweet spot?

The walk isn't much of a detractor really, as 2/4 of our group will be mostly trekking and not climbing anyway. Though a helicopter ride does sound like fun...