mhux

I've got a 3 day weekend coming up next week, trying to do something better than go to Smith...any recommendations for routes (of any sort) with these short days and good weather in that timeframe? Or I'll just give up and realize rain is coming...

Seriously! I was just up there this weekend and Torment's a pile...I'd rather wallow in powder than sketch on loose 3rd/4th

Went up there to give it a shot, the Taboo glacier under Torment was pretty small but a 20' wide berg blocked passage to the SE face, and a sketchy deep moat basically blocked off access to the S ridge...we ended up passing the berg on the right via some 4th class and got onto the SE face with some scary soloing on smooth low-5th class to gain the 3rd/4th on the face. Figured we had spent too much time already climbing Torment, we decided to bail and rap it, adding into consideration the likely glacier/berg problems on the snow traverses, and our lack of bivy gear or experience rapping the east ledges and descending Forbidden in general. Bottom line: I'd wait until next year!

Cool stuff, thanks for the beta MX Be back with a trip report

Awesome pictures! Love that first one, so pnw!

This coming Saturday. Just posted in advance to try and solidify beta...if nothing else I'll have a conditions report on Sunday!

Less pure? Never climbed Forbidden before so we were planning on downclimbing the west ridge...heard the east ledges is scrappy Good advice though, thanks

Thanks Bronco, that's good to know. Ranger station...of course! Good call, I forgot about that resource. Has anyone done the traverse recently with conditions beta? First-hand info would be appreciated...

That's why God created headlamps. It extends the day on both ends as fitness, logistics, and conditions allow. That's the idea...but will the route be in condition? Better conditions= more route in light= less headlamps (awesome or not)

Its a 7 hour drive to get there for me and I've got 8am class on monday...plus it'd be good fun to single push it

I was stoking on the idea of this classic today, but realized most trip reports say 'late season' is late august (maybe early september)...anyone know how it might be in a week or so? I figure the glaciers might be a hassle and the snow traverse will be solid alpine ice, if not melted out choss, but other than that I can only speculate. Also, if any of you have done it car2car in a (long) day and have any tips worth considering, lets hear it!

Nice picture! Especially the last one- mini Colchuck lake!?

Nice work! Just did this last weekend, bummer you missed out on the offwidth but at least you got the one on the fin (looked fun but we were in a hurry!). Funny how you can never do justice to the exposure from the fin in a picture... dave- not sustained, if you can get up the offwidth (physical, but not too technically tough), you can definitely handle some of the 5.8-9 moves on the Fin- I was worried about sandbagging but there's no need to be! Go get it!

Trip: Dragontail Peak - Backbone Ridge Date: 7/26/2012 Trip Report: After weather shut us down about a month ago, my friend Brayton and I got after it on Thursday. First alpine rock route, fun climbing and pretty committing! 22 hours car to car, not bad for a first experience like this but we weren't rushing by any means. A great time in the hills by all means! I've already written it up here, check it out: http://verticalism.blogspot.com/2012/07/dragontail-peak-backbone-ridge-59-iv.html Gear Notes: Borrowed a (new) #5 and #6 for the offwidth from Sol, thanks a ton! Otherwise a medium rack up to 3", doubles in finger sizes. You might want crampons for the snow hike down to Aasgard pass, or maybe just an ax to control your glissade Approach Notes: Straightforward, the only snow is crossing the moraine to the base of the route and coming off the summit col to Aasgard pass Heinous mosquitos from the lake, to the summit, back to the lake- bring as much repellent as you can

Is a 5am start even considered alpine? Strong work, that's obviously the best way down...props!!

Sorry to revive this thread (especially since there's a duplicate) but- can I descend Aasgard in sneakers yet? Trying to avoid bringing crampons/boots for a Dragontail climb... thanks in advance!

Awesome pictures!! Props on the summit as well.

Super sick! Nice work...I think you meant you brought 5 ice screws and placed 3? Think it'll shape up a little more with this weather for the coming weekend?

Anyone know what those speed bump type things are on the road? Definitely man made, I figured it was so people wouldn't rally the road (which is both a good and a bad thing)

We were up there early saturday, from the top of snowdome we ascended directly to the berg under horseshoe rock, then headed climber's right until we could cross it...so that rightward bootpack is probably ours! By loose sketchy cliffs do you mean (what I believe is) the Elliot glacier headwall? Looked suicidal to head that way... The skiing from snowdome looked infinitely better than the southside (much better snow and no crowds), guess that's for another day...good on you for skiing that, summit or not!

Trip: Mt. Hood - Sunshine Route Date: 7/14/2012 Trip Report: Climbed the Sunshine route with two friends yesterday, it was fun and pretty easy with some steep slushy snow (up to 50deg) and a near-sketchy 'schrund crossing. Descended southside and got a ride back around to our car, worked out well since some weather came in as we were coming off the top! Since its mostly a one-up of the southside route, I won't bore you with the details, but you should know the berg might be a bitch (or impossible) to pass in the near future. If you do want the details, they're on the link in my signature. All in all a fun outing, thanks for the good times Conor and Brayton! I can't seem to upload pictures (or at least they don't show in the preview), so they're on flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/72705010@N04/ Gear Notes: Brought two tools for the steep snow, but it was too slushy to protect Approach Notes: Tilly Jane not Cloud Cap (unless the cooper spur trail also departs from Cloud cap, it was dark)

when I'm home from school in salt lake mountain project or utahclimbers are both great resources

Anyone know NF gullies conditions (especially the right one!)? I know its a little late in the season, just wondering if the steps are in/how terrible the berg is (and the preferred option to cross it). Thanks!

definitely a troll

nice work! bailed from backbone on sat but didn't bring an ice ax to make a snow climb out of anything...good to see you had a solid backup plan!