bistro

now thats odd. one would think that if one doesnt know the answer to a question then the most logical place to go would be the Newbies section. While i do know that you cant just screw an ice screw into the ice and use them as stairs I think the point missed was that I am looking to learn techniques from those with expierience. If i were so cocky i wouldnt even ask this question but I do have a desire to live if for some reason I am stuck on a glacier because of unforseen cirumstances. as I stated I have no intension of puposely traveling alone across a glacier however I will be prepared. I might ask, where would one go to ask these DUMB questions if not the NEWBIE section. Newbies section is not just for people new to this sport but in my opinion a place to get info for those aspects of the sport we are NEW to. the ones that seem to be COCKY are the folks who make fun of and offer ridicule to those who would want only to better or perhaps expand their knowledge of aspects of this sport in which they have a weakness. That is what this section is for,am I mistaken?? So to reiterate, those who dont offer positive information should not comment as those that are truly new to this sport would, in my opinion, be less inclined to ask for instruction or guidence for fear of feeling their questions would be thought of as STUPID. Again, thanks to those who offered constuctive thoughts to my inquiries.

THANKS to all. It is true i havnt much expeirience with ice screws, having said that, i do travel alone a great deal of the time and am always looking for ways not to become a statistic. the way to do that is find ways of self preservation and self rescue and being prepared for the worst.this philosophy has served me well over the years. I do agree that traveling alone on glaciers is not safe and have avoided it thus far but ya never know what you might have to do,ie climb out of a crevase after a tragic accident. THANKS again to those who offered constructive ideas. to those with the underwear jokes. well, your not much help and probably should not post on the NEWBIE site.

kurt thanks for the tips on placement of the ice screws. as usual your advise is given with candor and shows respect for those who seek answers to questions that may seem to others unnecessary.

there was a fellow whom along with his partner fell into a crevase on rainier. his partner died from the fall but he climbed out using ice screws. you never know eh.

how would u place them, straight in or angled up or down

Senario, I am traveling solo across a glacier. I fall through an ice bridge and land on a ledge or am wedged between two walls of ice 10 to 20 ft. down. I am uninjured. How many and what Ice screws would be needed to get out of the crevase if useing srews was the only escape. Keeping in mind, besides traveling across the glacier alone isn't wise,I have crampons on and have a standard ice ax and am prepared in general for travel of this nature.

i think you can buy tails for those shoes. my MSR shoes came with 2 sets 6" and I think 9" turns out I have only needed the shorties. I bought them for denali thinking I would need the extra length for the weight of the pack.

i have a first accent shell that is very light and packs in a bag i bought that is about 6inches long and 3 inches in diameter. the shell weighd ,i believe,about 14 oz. i bought a large so as to layer underneith. i weigh 155-160 lbs it has been very bomber for me and i have worn it to the same places you have been plus a few more.

ok, lets try this. What is the best route to take to get to the summit of Glacier Peak? I am interested,in a solo trip and the overall expierience of the journey. I am proficient at most things trail, off trail,mountauneering, alpine travel, etc.I plan to go July, August 2012. I know that trail conditions may change. Ive read the blogs, which are too old to be of much good as they generally point to Kennedy Pass and the hot springs. So I am interested in hearing from some one who has been there within the last year as conditions have,it seems, been some what stable. I'm not scared of the dark, high places, slippery slopes,or Rabid Hoary Marmots.I also know that the area suffered a great deal of damage during the "big storms" and there are road closures and trail closures and it's a loooong fucking walk.I have done as much research as I can, now i'm looking for personal expieriences to make the best informed choice for this trip. Now can I get some info???

which approach is open? is SUATTLE RIVER APPROACH THE LEAST DAMAGED?

what can you tell me? route, why you were close, what the approach was like, etc.

has anyone been up glacier peak this fall ?

i have a patagonia down sweater that i layer with a long sleeve base and a windpro fleece,think capalin 4, and then if necessary a light weight hard shell,which is a first ascent "rainier" shell. and for serious warmth i can add a western mountaineering "meltdown" jacket. the meltdown weighs about 18 0z. and is hooded the down sweater weighs about 9 oz. the shell is about 15 oz.you can learn more at their web sites.

I am inspired by mountaineers such as Norman Vaugh. On his 89th birthday on Dec. 16, 1994 he summited Mt. Vaugh in Antarctica. Now that, is inspiring to all us Young Pup!!

thanks for that info,i am thinking about Denali on my 60th. I don't really know how much more climbing i'll do after that but I only want to buy one last pair of boots just in case I get the itch again after that. Last year I bought Scarpa Omega's thinking they would work on Denali but have since learned they are not warm enough even with over boots. However they are really a first class light double boot good for winter slouging and did well in Equador. I have noticed and perhaps their are others but it seems my feet require more managment as I age. Having said that I will definatly check into Evo and Mons type boots. thanks again for the info

Scarpa, Inverno or Koflach, Arctis Exped. which is considered the warmest and best fitted for narrow to medium feet??

Mt. Hardwear thech. pants(soft shell) have full side zipps. I also have hard shell full side zipps from REI with conduit material. very nice pants. They are very usefull in winter if your in wet snow and or cold windy conditions. they dont freeze up like soft shells. soft shell pants seem to always collect some moisture. If you go with guide service they will want you to have both in most instances. depends on how much you go out in the winter and what the conditions you expect. for instance, if you are hiking Nelson ridge or American ridge or trail 2000 around Bumping lake in the winter, I would take hard shell pants because of the deep snow and cold wind. A few months back I climbed in Ecuador and wore the hards shells climbing the mountains but the soft shells ever where else. When I climbed Rainier I wore the hard shells just to be safe, mountain weather is unpredictable so I plan for worst case scenario to be sure I come home. What is your comfort level?? That is the deciding factor.

damn good question. I'd like to know the answer too.

'YOUR ANSWER MAY INFLUENCE THE REPLIES YOU GET" perhaps you can give me the appropriate "answer" that would ensure the greatest number of replies, i thought my post was simple and to the point. my motivation is no doubt simular to many others. i dont believe ive ever read a post warning of having the "correct answer" in order to find climbing/hiking partners.if your concern is my reference to "hiking" to these summits I will ,for you, change that wording to ,climb to these summits, now do i have your approval to solicite partners for my quest to hike/climb/scale/ascend/go up/top out/summit either of these great mountains?

easiest route is subjective depending on weather,date,conditions, ect. going during the best conditions is always my goal. bagging the peak is only one of the reasons for climbing, is this not true? i would like to travel with a person with some knowledge of these mountains because it is, after all, safer.

i'm 58 not blazin fast but steady. have climbed rainier,adams,hood,st hellens, shasta, and summited in ecuador. would be interested in hiking one or both of the above summits during appropriate time period for highest chance of success. I am not in a hurry and have no problem making either of these climbs in two or more days, whatever the traffic will bare, so to speak. prefer someone who has been to these summits previously and of couse a person of like skills and not in a big hurry. i am stong and fit, have glacier travel, crevase rescue skills, roped travel, and winter mountaineering/camping skills and appropriate equip.

i say go for Mt. Adams. When I climbed that mt. years ago it was to me a big deal. I also did this mt. solo and was excited to go so high. I was also thrilled to spend the night at the lunch counter. The whole event was great. I knew the ascent was straigfht forward and objectivly non hazardous. That my friends did not damper my excitment or my subsequent pleasure in reaching the summit. I say go for it. it,s your first high mt. and will be a great learning expierience regardless.

I agree that good choices make for a safe climb but I also adhere to the ideal that good gear makes for a safe climb. I have traveled with a guy who wore crampons that were tied to his boots(summer hiking boots)litterally with raw hide strips though he was very good at many things alpine he chose the old scool of using what he had because (it works) well not for me I have good equip that I never have to worry about failing so that I can concentrate on making the best choices for my alpine ascent whether that means summit today or turn around and summit another day. much wisdom is available here in many different forms it can at times be a daunting task to dicide the coure of action to suit your situation. So what i've done in the past and still do today is read, listen, experiment until something works. The best thing that happened to me is that I met folks that were very knowledgable. I stuck to them like glue!!! One last thing about equipment is I am very slow at choosing gear. I find out what I need and it's limitations and durability and applications before I buy. I also buy the best gear that I can Afford. Good Luck

of course you are getting the perfect day secarios here #1 do go slow to avoid head ach ect., so you don't get in over your head. ive seen Hood with 50 mph winds out of no where. # 2 spend the coin for the preservation of your life. #3 more people died from exposure and falls "in the old days" because they DID'NT have the gear we have. #4 if this Hobby is too expensive take up something else. This is all about ejoying the expierience and to do that you NEED good safe equipment and clothes. I wouldn't hesetate 1 nano second spending money on an item that will will ensure my safty. a bad day above ground beats a good day dead anyway you look at it.

speed is safety?? i've not heard that one before.what does that mean?