Woodcutter

We attempted to climb NE couloir yesterday (sunday) but retreated half way up the 1st mixed pitch because there wasn't any ice. There were a few patches of neve but mostly rotten sugar snow and the odd bit of rotten ice. Camera crapped out at the top too. I can't get the photo's to load http://www.kodakgallery.com/imaging-site/services/doc/5369:202185318212/jpeg/BG http://www.kodakgallery.com/imaging-site/services/doc/5369:927675318212/jpeg/BG http://www.kodakgallery.com/imaging-site/services/doc/5758:237675318212/jpeg/BG Maybe this route is always sketchy on the initial low section, but when the rock started to disintegrate under my frontpoints I had enough. Reversed down leaving a cam & a wire which I gladly bequeath to the next guys who do the big hike. Spoke to a really nice fella on the hike out who suggested that there wasn't enough snow on top yet and there hadn't been any melt-freeze cycles. The dude also said that the fat ice from 3 weeks ago on Colchuck NBC was greatly diminished. Everything else was great.

I have have an XCR jacket which I have replaced with paclite jacket and climb in both to good effect. And I'm a sweaty gindofaguy. The key in my opinion in the PNW is to judge your baselayer just right & not to wear a midlayer, use your pitzips. This way you have what Mark Twight calls the action suit, which means you are OK when moving verging on the cold, but not sweating. You feel lightly dressed and can open/ close the pitzips if you feel you've got the baselayer a bit off. Also hat on/ hat off helps control body heat to a good degree. And when you stop, put your synthetic puffy on. The paclite is...light, and packs small, which is good. Windproof & waterproof if necessaey. Rubbish for skiing in on sunny days though. My baselayer is an REI silk longsleve + IO biocompatibles very thin wool waffle longsleve (2nd ascent) + IBEX woolies wool tanktop if it's getting cold. My 2 cents. Jake

3 of us climbed this route on Sunday 13th. Definitely more mixed than expected lower down. Snow in the upper gully is now infinitely deep and chest high & almost impossible to move through. We bailed about 200' from the notch due to the snow depth & lightness. Also a 6-8" windslab forming.

Handling is rather good, supple. Make good pillows too.

Bump. Still looking

something like this? I'm not convinced about the ID design for 3 men with the door shut without the middle man having to sleep with the pole between his legs! Thanks for the thought

Something like the GoLite ShangriLa3, or the BD MegaLight. Seattle or around as I'm in a bit of a rush. Thanks Jake

http://www.groupon.com/deals/second-ascent-seattle

Looks like the guy who nailed your floors had beer for lunch.

That is some excellent information, really great. The R values from Pacific Outdoor are brilliant if accurate. R 4 for a 9OZ closed cell polyethylene pad looks great on paper. Thanks Again. Jake

I climbed Buckner N Couloir last Oct with the 30l CIlo pack as part of a 3 man team. It can work, the pack does becomes uncomfortable if overloaded, I can still remember the pain in my shoulders now form the approach, but that may be from carrying really heavy skis earlier in the season, can't remember. I also used (& still use the vireo & helios combo (both with 2oz overfill) on that trip and was just about right. The vireo combo is great for me cos I don't sleep like a corpse on my back, I squirm around all night and you don't and up getting twisted in a full bag with the hood upside down. I packed for Rainier last weekend into the 30l Cilo, but re-packed into a 40l MEC pack for an easy life. Love the pack though, just don't overload it. Love the Vireo combo, saves carrying sleeping bag & puffy parka.

I have the Metolius 7.8's and like them. Pretty stretchy on the raps though.

Hi, Can anyone recommend a good (high r value) closed cell, or similar sleeping pad. ie NOT an inflatable that can puncture. It's for alpine use, so I'll probably cut it down to a 3/4 & put my feet up on my pack. Many thanks Jake

PM sent on the WT parka

PM sent on pitons.

Yup, that's the thing, Don't fall. The rope helps for peace of mind when you're a few 1000' up feeling exposed. So my formula would be a 60 or 70m rope with a guy at each end and one in the middle. If there is a piece between each guy, that means one picket/ screw/ fluke every 100'. So 6 pickets will get you up 600' before the leader needs them back, and you'd want a belay to bring the other 2 guys up to to gather the gear back. Assume you make the belay from axes, the leader has to carry 6 pickets. Personally I'd solo it, but the rope is nice to have. Thanks Jake

Sounds good. I'm worried about one fall taking all 3 climbers off and the snow/ ice protection being too weak to hold 3 climbers. I don't have a lot of faith in pickets unless you T them in (which takes time), and good ice screws are rare on those mellow angle routes. Would you require the leader to sink more pro?? I reckon this is the way to go, but it means the leader has to carry & place more gear which slows the whole show down. Thanks for the reply. Jake

3 of us climbed N Couloir of Buckner last oct, perfect conditions but we had to pitch it rather than simul because I don't know how, or even if it's possible to safely simul with 3 climbers on snow/ ice. Do you do it? How do you do it? Any thoughts most appreciated. Jake

That's a really great website, thanks everyone for the input. Dane, appreciate the offer but right now I'm not ready to buy anything, just checking out what exists and how well it works. Seems that the boots one is wearing dictate the ski-ability of the setup. Watched a friend carry his alpine boots dangling off his pack nearly 15 miles a few weeks ago while we skiied into the Cirque of the Towers. Seems there should be an easier way. Thanks again for the info. Jake

Can anyone point me in the right direction....... I need to know what bindings work on alpine or mountaineering boots for approach skiing on full length backcountry skis? Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Jake

Ha. Respect.

Excellent photo's, you can really see the snow terain, corinces etc. Cool Jake

I'll forgive you for not climbing the peak grit, but next time, the North Wales Slate Quarries. Or I'll have to take you there myself. Jake the Gyt

That's just what I needed to know. I posted a beta-request on Supertopo: Reports of 250% snowpack & conditions 'pushed back one month' have led me to re-think the Sierras. Might just have to do a ski tour and embrace the gigantic snowpack http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1512478/High-Sierra-beta Thanks Curtveld, nice reply.

Looking for conditions reports & some advice about where to head in the Sierras in mid June? Looking for long multi-pitch rock routes, with multiday traverse options if possible. Read about Matterhorn, Incredible Hulk etc, which look good. And Bridgeport is closer to the North so shortens the drive from Seattle. Any input would be really appreciated. Climb around 5.10, got 8 days. Thanks Jake the Brit