JasonDowns

Same here...i left after the presentations. All downhill after the Hyggelig video...kinda hard to top that!

Looked for ya last night at the party but you must have left after the presentations. Was laughing my ass off when you played this video! The best moment was when some old dude said "Is it gonna be 8 mins of this?" when the video started with just a tame campfire....little did he know! Hit me up if you need a buddy to hit the mtns this winter...perhaps some backcountry skiing?!?!?!

I'll plan on being there Ill bring a few celebratory beers for ya, Pat!

Cool that you're doing it with your dad. Man, that's rare. Yeah, that's why I've loved doing the list, too. I've been to some really amazing places off the general radar.... ....with some really, really shitty rock! I hear ya on the shitty rock. Have already had a couple serious bouts of it climbing Jack and Boston! Horseshoe was a blessing after having just climbed those two earlier that summer LOL Its been a great time sharing this with my dad, though. It makes all the hard work, long approaches and, at times, shitty climbing well worth it. Part of doing this list is for my love of climbing and part of it is because my dad is doing it (and i wanna be like him when i grow up! ) Too many of my friends dont have anything in common with their parents...i really cherish my time with my dad in the mtns. Sounds cheesy, i know, but its the truth

Just got #30 this last weekend on Flora...still a long ways off! The cool thing is by the time i get to #50, ill have all the tough ones out of the way! LOL Thats the benefit of helping my dad finish up his list Should be smoother sailing after that but who knows. Ive been wrong in my assumptions before and had my ass handed to me on peaks i thought would be easy. Looks like you've found a good climbing partner in Josh! Anyone willing to put up with "The List" is a-ok in my book Ill say one thing about the T100 list, it has taken me to places i probably wouldnt normally travel to.

Great pics, Pat! Was up on Horseshoe last summer...quite the vantage point

Amazing photos! Looks like a great place to spend a few days...or weeks

Trip: Dark Peak - Swamp Creek Date: 8/21/2010 Trip Report: Took off Thursday night with my dad, headed for my parents future retirement home in the hills above Chelan. The plan was to head up lake via the Lady Express and go try to climb Dark Peak. This is an account of that heinous bushwhacking adventure! Arrived at Stehekin at around 11am via the Lady Express and promptly jumped aboard the shuttle that goes to High Bridge. Got to High Bridge around noon and were off on the PCT (Agnes Creek Trail) by 12:30pm. The goal for the day was to get up to Swamp Creek camp, maybe the lower basin if we had time. We made pretty good time to Swamp Creek camp (~9 miles in just over 3 hrs with a break at Five Mile camp for lunch) so we looked at each other and said "Lets shoot for the lower basin tonight, shit its only another few miles and bit of elevation gain, why the hell not!" The rest of the trip to the lower basin resulted in the most cursing ive ever heard on a climb...even more than the time we climbed that rotten piece of shit Jack Mtn! The going from Swamp Creek camp to the lower basin started off innocently enough. The old trail was not too hard to follow (lots of blaze marks on the trees at eye and knee level). It wasnt till we hit the first plateau that the hell began. The devils club and slide alder was some of the worst ive ever dealt with. We tried following the path beat in by Tvashtarkatena and JoshK (thanks guys, your swath really did help at times!). Nonetheless, it took us 4 hrs to get from Swamp Creek camp to the lower basin, covering about 3 miles and roughly 2000 vert (thats my guess-timate). Having just had back surgery a month earlier, this was not what I had in mind! I read Klenkes report on summitpost and figured it would be bad, but not this bad! I guess my dad was just as frustrated as he would reply to every "FuckinA, this shit sucks!" said by me with a loud "ARGGHH, DAMN THIS SLIDE ALDER!!" The reason I say this is because in all the time ive climbed with my dad, he is never one to complain. Hes the epitomy of an old, tough outdoors guy. He just plods along, never bitching and moaning. I found it funny to hear some of the shit that came out of his mouth! We reached the lower basin at around 7:30pm and started looking around for a camp spot. This was our next problem. As we looked around for suitable spots we realized there really werent any for two solo tents. The more we looked around, the more we realized how much bear scat there was too. One thing to know about me - I fear sharks, clowns AND BEARS! We settled on a lumpy, grassy spot between two tributaries of the creek. Lets just say I had a very uncomfortable nights sleep. The next morning we woke up at 5:30am and started up the headwall by 6am. We thought we knew how to get up the thing but ended up going the wrong way and had to deal with some 4th class bushwhacking but with ample green belays. Even so, its was not how I wanted to start the morning off (note to anyone going up here in the future - from the lower basin, locate the talus slope on the east side of the headwall. Take this to near its end and look for an obvious climbers path in older timber...STAY AWAY FROM THE NEW TIMBER CLOSEST TO THE WATERFALL!!!). We got to the upper basin in about 1hr 15mins and saw we were not alone. Apparently Tvash, JoshK and a couple others were sleeping in the upper basin after having climbed Dark the day before. Also turns out it was Tvash's completion of the T100 list so congrats to him for that! From the upper basin, we headed to the west side of the glacier then made an ascending traverse back east towards the summit ridge. We roped up, as a fall on the upper glacier would have probably resulted in being swallowed whole by a huge crevasse. We summited at around 10:30 or 11am, cant remember exactly. Hung around on the summit for about 15 mins, signing the register (only about 40 or so entries in it since 1995, mostly T100 climbers) and taking pics. Headed back down to our camp, packed up and started the dreaded trip back through the alder swaths. Got to Swamp Creek camp at about 7pm on Saturday night and called it a day. Sunday morning we woke up at 4:30am and left camp by 5:15am so we could cover the ~9 miles back to High Bridge to catch the 9am shuttle to Stehekin. Got back to Stehekin, ate some pastries from the bakery, and waited for boarding of the noon boat back to Chelan. Overall, in hindsight, this was a very rewarding climb. The views are amazing and the toughness of the approach really makes you appreciate all that those before us have had to deal with. The more T100 peaks I climb, the more respect I have for those like the original Bulgers, Paul Klenke, Dave Stephens, Tom Sjolseth and Pat Gallagher. Anyone who finishes that list has a ton of respect from me! Pics here: FLICKR _DARK PEAK Gear Notes: Trekking poles, Ice Axe, Crampons, rope (8mm x 30m), bug spray, LOTS OF PATIENCE! Approach Notes: Follow the old climbers path from Swamp Creek to a point where you come to the creek near the plateau. Look for 2 large logs to get you across to the east side of the drainage (roughly 2 miles and at 4000 ft.). From here, its just a game of trying to find the easiest way through the swaths. I think we lost that game Try to stay high. When we came back, we stayed higher up on the east side of the valley and this was a big help.

My pleasure I feel ive mooched off this site long enough...time to start paying back with some trip reports!

Trip: Primus Peak - Thunder Creek/Borealis Glacier Date: 9/3/2010 Trip Report: My dad and I decided to go climb Primus Peak over the Labor Day weekend. There isnt much info on this climb via Thunder Creek so I figured i'd post a quick report. Left Seattle around 1:00pm on Friday, skipping out early from work, and got to the Thunder Creek trailhead around 4:30pm. McAllister camp was our objective for the evening and we covered the 6.7 miles in just over 2 hrs. Set up camp right at the base of the ridge where the climbers path starts. Got up at 5:30am, Saturday morning, and were off towards the Borealis Glacier by 6:15am. The climbers path is fairly visible for the first 2000 ft of the hike up to the glacier. Once you get to the first plateau in the ridge, it tends to disappear and reappear every so often until you get into the thinner alpine environment at around the 5000 ft level. From there, the path is pretty obvious. The going is never really tough as we made the 4100 ft climb, with 35 lbs packs, in a little under 3 hrs. We set up camp near the northern shores of the tarn and took off for the summit. Our route went up the west side of the Borealis (not straight up the glaciers east side like some reports say) due to the how heavily crevassed and steep the east side was). The route finding and crevasse negotiation was never a problem. We made it to Lucky Pass in about 3 hrs after leaving camp (this could be done faster but we took a detour to check out the NW face of Primus prior to heading east towards the pass). The route from the pass to the summit is real easy...class 2/3 tops. We summited around 1:30pm and hung around for about 30 - 45 mins eating lunch and taking in the unbelievable views. Very awesome vantage point, definitely one I will never forget! Made quick work back to the glaciers terminus, going around the east side of the tarn as my dad wanted to check out the lakes outlet and go explore a bit. Got back to camp at around 5pm. The next morning we woke up fairly early and headed back to the car. I believe the trip time for that morning was right around 4 hrs. The reason I bring up the times is that I believe this trip could be done from McAllister camp, as opposed to the glacier like we did. This would save some wear and tear on your body by not having to haul your loaded pack all the way up to the glacier. With the times we posted (and we are by no means a super speedy group) it would have been completely possible to leave when we did from McAllister camp with light day packs and make the summit of Primus and back down in one long day (even though our camp at the tarn was one of the most memorable ive had...very beautiful setting with the glacier and both Primus and Tricouni Peaks towering above. Also great views up the Fisher valley towards Ragged Ridge). Pics here: FLICKR Another great and memorable trip with the ol' man as he trys to complete the T100 list Hes been the best climbing partner I could ever ask for (dont know if he'd say the same about me though LOL). Gear Notes: Trekking poles, ice axe, crampons, rope (8mm x 30m). We actually never roped up or used the ice axes but that all depends on your comfort levels I guess. Approach Notes: Look for cairns along the climbers path up to the glacier. My dad built quite a few so this should make following the path easier at times. .

Great video, Pat