abarlow

The official range is much higher with the #4 camelot though. So it's covering the range of at least two tri-cam sizes. At least from the official sizes on the respective websites.

His body has not yet been recovered?

If I had to lead the OW gendarme pitch with only a massive tricam I would have bailed into the gully too! ;P

I left two crazy stout draws with steel locking carabiners on the rope end at the Mountaineers outdoor wall Sunday. If anyone picked them up please let me know!

Ben have you seen the Nisqually right now? I'm with Kurt. It's crazy ATM. No WAY I would try and dodge my way through there right now. It looks like Dantes inferno

I did DC with my wife yesterday. The route is in great shape, being meticulously maintained by the guide services. However, it is very long distance-wise this year.

A 3 cam bail anchor! That's quite the find!

Haha. Where was this?

You can rap down into the chimney pretty easily. Should be a pretty easy bit of work..

There was a ladder there? A bolt ladder or an actual ladder? I have never considered that chimney as unsafe... I haven't climbed it in a little while though as I generally prefer sandy corner or the first pitch of aries, which are both great ways to access that area.. Has it become more loose in the last year?

I am really surprised you had a Half-dome fail in heavy winds. When properly staked out the new ones with the DAC aluminum poles can take some high winds! Did you have the guy lines attached?

Tell us what trips you need the tent for. The REI Half Dome is actually a great tent although a bit heavy and not 4 season. And would hold up to most abuses you can throw at it. It can work in snow conditions if you can shovel snow over the the edge of the fly. Where will you be using this thing?

If you have a valid northwest forest pass there are plenty of places you can legally sleep in your car in the canyon.

As cool as the cruzers are I can't imagine climbing the NR of Stuart in those..

I lost a red Yates picket w/ swaged cable today, sunday, 26th april. Somewhere around 9000 feet on the south side of Mt. Hood. It was brand new. This was on the normal south side route. Please reply if you found it. Thanks! Adam

Glad you guys made it. Were you the ones we talked to in the parking lot? We had attempted Sat. and switched to coleman demming due to not having brought our skis...

Two years ago I went with chainsaws and a good friend to the green giant buttress road and cut all of the trees out of the way. I assume it needs another trim. I hope to get to this again this year.

I can't find the links at the moment but generally an unused rope does not weaken much with age. It's impact force does however slowly rise as it ages. Basically it becomes less dynamic. This is a big deal, IMO so i generally rotate my ropes from trad, to sport, to top roping. I have a think alpine rope that I just rotated out of use for trad climbing due to age. I'll top rope on pretty much any nylon rope of any age or condition.

I think so. Then again the posts are a bit spaced out and do have relevant info in them.. Who knows.

Been meaning to make a trip report but haven't got around to it. Climbed Kautz weekend of Aug, 23rd. Conditions were actually excellent and there was glacial ice. Probably WI 2+. Was taking screws well. Able to cross Nisqually but just barely. Crossed at about 7000 feet. Hit by thunderstorm on Sunday at 13,500. Very serious. Had to ascend into thunderstorm. Remarkably did not get struck by lightning. Partner and I descended well wanded DC. Ditched pickets. Was a great weekend except for the storm / complete whiteout and scarefest of the DC during electrical storms and potential for large corn avalanche above Ingraham. Route was awesome before all this.

I believe adding an additional anchor to get off Jello tower is unnecessary. Convenience bolting is not a good way to protect the character of the crag for future generations. I don't think it's really about protecting the rock so much as the character of the crag. There is plenty of room on top of the tower as it is. However, I am a heavy believer in replacing frequently used rappel stations (those with old tat) with bolts. This is cleaner and more eco-friendly. The new brass balls anchor is not in a place where people frequently rappelled and therefore changes the nature of the crag. This shouldn't be taken lightly as many folks enjoy climbing these areas because of the traditional character they offer. Just my opinion.

I know one of the older pitons is no longer there. Was this on the traverse itself?

Thinking of heading up this weekend. Anything in good shape lately?

It's the ultimate jacket design, Hardshell on the hood,shoulders, and arms, with softshell everywhere else. I HAVE NOT been able to find a single manufacturer of this type of jacket. Too many companies are trying to sell these "softshells" that are really waterproof / breathable. They obviously are selling jackets to people who never get active in these jackets. The closest I found was some "Guide jacket" that Eddie Bauer only carried for a season and a half and it wasn't waterproof everywhere it needed to be. I lost that jacket and have been cursing that day ever since.

Mark, I just had ankle surgery in February. I cannot recommend more highly Dr. Blahous from the Sports Medicine clinic in seattle. I too had a shit ankle from a fall 12 years ago. He took a lot of time to diagnose the problem effectively and nailed the surgery spot on. He is was also the ankle surgeon of the year in 2010 from the Washington Academy of Orthopedic surgeons or something Every other Dr. I had seen mis-diagnosed me. If you want, PM me and we can chat on the phone. -Adam