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Everything posted by summitchaserCJB
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[TR] Alpental - unknown and kiddie cliff? 1/22/2010
summitchaserCJB replied to alpinebumm's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Forgive me if I am mistaken, but fat usually means very protectable. Of course, there are always exceptions to the rule. And, with the exception of mixed climbing (using trad gear/pitons), the inverse is true (thin= usually bad ice pro). But really from my perspective Todd and I were up there like a week ago and everything was ready to go. -
I'd rather just not have to worry about the potential to drop an ax.
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Lame...just kidding that looked cool.
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There is a technique called self belay where you face the ax in the opposite direction than normal and plunge the ax in fairly hard and put one or two hands on it. It is effectively a self-belay when used correctly. It is also good to use when tired or on steep ground. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Self_belay But, as said before, this can be done without a waist attachment.
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btw that doc is awesome.
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k2. Touching the Void. Everest IMAX.
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Will Jesus make me a better climber if I pray?
summitchaserCJB replied to Dirtyleaf's topic in Spray
I could see people climbing better mad or happy. Perhaps being angry while climbing could leave people open to making dangerous mistakes (I.E.-self-destructive). -
[TR] Mt. Erie - Zig Zag moonlight 1/28/2010
summitchaserCJB replied to Wakaranai's topic in North Cascades
Good stuff. -
Will Jesus make me a better climber if I pray?
summitchaserCJB replied to Dirtyleaf's topic in Spray
Oh yes, opinions. -
Will Jesus make me a better climber if I pray?
summitchaserCJB replied to Dirtyleaf's topic in Spray
Gotta call post-modern BS on you. What are you referring to? You don't think climbing has objective reality? hmm... -
Will Jesus make me a better climber if I pray?
summitchaserCJB replied to Dirtyleaf's topic in Spray
No. -
Will Jesus make me a better climber if I pray?
summitchaserCJB replied to Dirtyleaf's topic in Spray
That is a big can of worms. First, I think it is kinda silly to say what you said how you said it. In other words, if Jesus exists and you know it to be true, then it is almost an intellectual imperative that you believe in him. This is not the case in the world today. So it is not a question of whether Jesus can make you climb harder but does Jesus exist. Okay. Now onto the hard part. Then you have the issue of prayer. This brings up the issue of God's (I'll operate from the idea of the triune God here) omniscience and omnipotence. Personally I believe that God knows what will happen in the future. There is a classic argument called the pancake argument. It goes something like this (forgive me it has been a few years so this is a rough sketch): I can choose to have pancakes today. I plan to have pancakes today. God knows my thoughts about eating pancakes. Instead, I choose waffles. So, did I change God's mind? My answer to this is no, because God knew what I was going to eventually choose. Okay, so what is the point and how does this relate to climbing? Well choosing waffles is sort of like asking God for something. Why pray? Is it possible to change God's will? Can we be smarter than God by telling him to change the course of history based on our human wills? I don't really know. But I know that God knows what will eventually happen and he can basically pick and choose what he wants to be done. That is my best summary. -
"Last summer was my first climb. When our guide met us before the climb to check our gear, one of the first things he did was take the leash off of my axe. For all of the great reasons listed above. I'd rather watch my axe go flying down the side of a mountain then having to be air lifted to a level one trauma center to have it dug out of some part of my body." I have also heard this from other experienced climbers. I don't agree. Losing an ax can mean death probably as often as being mangled by a secured ax can. When I was way younger a leash saved me from a pretty decent fall on the brothers.
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I don't know. If you are not climbing ice with two tools that are capable of being used leashless I wouldn't use a leash that attaches to your harness. It could just too easily get knocked around and hurt you in a bad fall. Just use a wrist leash. I mean, the only downside is having to switch hands on the leash.
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Just get something you are actually going to use. I think using a 4 season tent year round could work if you aren't too rough on your gear. Hilleberg makes great tents in my experience.
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Free solo speed record on the Tooth?
summitchaserCJB replied to summitchaserCJB's topic in Alpine Lakes
"If you think that's fun, you should check out some stuff at Index. That shizzle will leave you with a smile for dayzzz!" Oh Hell yes. My first lead was the lizard (stiff 5.8) and I've done all the classic Index 9's. I learned to climb at Index. Yes it is all it is stacked up to be. It teaches you so much about real trad. -
Free solo speed record on the Tooth?
summitchaserCJB replied to summitchaserCJB's topic in Alpine Lakes
Now the real question is what is your solo speed record up classic crack? -
Free solo speed record on the Tooth?
summitchaserCJB replied to summitchaserCJB's topic in Alpine Lakes
haha. Yes grade 11. What kind of insult is that? I was just curious. Whatever man... -
Free solo speed record on the Tooth?
summitchaserCJB replied to summitchaserCJB's topic in Alpine Lakes
"soloing the improbable traverse is much kewler" Yep that would be sweet. -
Free solo speed record on the Tooth?
summitchaserCJB replied to summitchaserCJB's topic in Alpine Lakes
I find it pretty fun. I just recently did it again. -
Free solo speed record on the Tooth?
summitchaserCJB replied to summitchaserCJB's topic in Alpine Lakes
I respect your opinion but I see it a little differently. It all depends on your margin of safety. If you can solo the tooth safely (relatively speaking) pretty fast I think that is cool. Not that I make a huge habit out of it. Thats just me. There are plenty of people who don't agree. -
Free solo speed record on the Tooth?
summitchaserCJB replied to summitchaserCJB's topic in Alpine Lakes
Must be tough being such a hardman Markjizzy. How do you do it? (hmm..just noticed you haven't posted any TR's...) -
best overall digital camera for climbing
summitchaserCJB replied to Ed_Hobbick's topic in The Gear Critic
Yep I have the same one. It is the lightest DSLR Canon makes. Too bad my wide angle lens is like 2 pounds. -
best overall digital camera for climbing
summitchaserCJB replied to Ed_Hobbick's topic in The Gear Critic
I use a full size Canon Rebel DSLR with an ultra wide angle lens but I am really into photography and most people probably don't want to carry that much weight. -
[TR] Winter training: more laps on Godzilla - Godz
summitchaserCJB replied to denalidevo's topic in North Cascades
Hey Devin it is Colin from Tall Timber. Glad to see your still getting out. Peace, CB