summitchaserCJB

Well..I'd say it depends. Like for instance the Torre traverse is explicitly a traverse of the Torre mountains. So if you didn't summit that wouldn't really count. Feck- Summiting and traversing are different. Summiting is just traveling the top of something, and doesn't require use of all routes. If you say you are going to traverse a range of peaks some would assume you should actually do that, some not.

Will, Andrew, Todd and I went up to Chair, again. I didn't want to add a new TR but I wanted to add some photos. I also got hit by a rock on the shoulder after rapping down the gully. It was probably a fluke, but something to keep in mind. The conditions were good, but that should be changing with the snow. Snowshoes aren't currently required.

Ok. Just checking.

What has changed since Thursday in terms of snow conditions? Is there a massive stamped out trail?

Is that a joke? There is a TR from today.

Trip: Castle Rock - Saber, Damnation Crack, and Angel Crack. Date: 2/22/2010 Trip Report: Todd and I headed over to L worth for the day. We wanted to hit up some multipitch but one look at Midnight Rock and we decided otherwise. We first headed up Saber to warm up. I've had my eye on Damnation for a long long time. I decided to do it, despite the fact that it was 30 degrees when we left the car and the route was in the shade. I made it up with no serious problems. Gear isn't really too big of an issue on that route, surprisingly. You just need a comprehensive rack including small cams and nuts. Seriously a great route and a test of the leader's ability. We headed a few feet over to Angel Crack because Todd hadn't led it yet. He did pretty well and led it a couple times. I also led it clean. We headed back to this side at 3:30 pm. Todd has a few picture of me leading Damnation. I took some video of him leading Angel. Maybe he'll cross post. Gear Notes: Full rack for Damnation. Small cams and one number 2 or three for the upper section for Angel. Approach Notes: Walk up the trail.

Bump. Hey Todd.

I'm not- I get them for free. ... I like the reds.

" but you're on a WIDE open face with lots of different lines to be had." Indeed. We weren't a slow party (by my standards at least) but another team opted to take a line like 100 feet to the left of the standard line before they even started the route on Thursday. They went basically the same speed as us but we had three people so they summited ahead of us. Like Spiderman said, if you have issues, start earlier or pass the team.

Lawrence- I do pretty much the same thing and it works pretty dang well.

Nice. Definitely on the tick list.

Nice photos. They look familiar.

haha nice.

Ya man. Good times.

JoeR- probably at worst reckless endangerment if you could prove it was excessively dangerous.

Trip: Index Town Wall - Them, Roger's Corner, Breakfast of Champions, ect. Date: 2/19/2010 Trip Report: Also included in this TR is the Lizard (may also be called Aries or somesuch). Will, Todd and I decided to hit up Index Town Walls today. We first were going up to the Upper Wall area to look for some geriatric-named route but we stumbled upon another route. We didn't know what it was but it looked stiff. I guessed in the 10b range and the guys thought that was close enough. I volunteered to lead it because I felt strong today. Abnormally strong. So I led it pretty dang well. I was pretty happy for leading it, especially on-sight without knowing the grade. Todd seconded it and said it was 5.9+-5.10b (depending on the section). Turns out it is called "Them" and is rated 5.9+ and it is located at the wall of 10,000 insects. I love Index ratings. Then we went back down towards the car to find more climbs. Somehow I thought that I might want to lead Breakfast of champions. So we headed over to Roger's Corner and watched a guy style up Sagitarius. Will took the first pitch, Todd the second, and I made it as far as the first half of breakfast. I definitely laced the crux but was too pumped to finish up so Todd did it. I was pissed seconding because I discovered that right above my high point was a perfect jam that was just my size. Next time that crack is mine. After coming down from Breakfast we walked over to the sickle crack. Here Will led up to the base of the lizard chimney. I soloed up there as well and got ready for the lead. I have done the lizard before so the lead wasn't too hard. Just stay out of the crack. I had some pretty good pro there as well. I moved the belay to the right about 40 feet to a hanging belay to get started on a somewhat thin finger crack that is rated 5.7. Todd took the lead while we hung out at the belay. Soon we gathered our stuff together and did the raps down and scrambled home. Gear Notes: Rack. Doubles in some sizes. Slings. Approach Notes: Good luck finding wall of 10,000 insects. We found it by accident.

Wow I'm never gonna climb there.

We did the North face (See title). Ya the decent route is the same- you are coming from the summit no matter what. One 60 would work. You could actually down-climb the rap gully if need be. It is off 3 equalized pins.

I think the 16 works, but not everywhere. I think it was the 19 or 22 I had to rack and grab a 16. I just like the shorter ones on ambiguous ice because I can place them without worrying.

I think 4 or 5 but we brought 7.

Right on.

Trip: Chair Peak - North Face. Date: 2/18/2010 Trip Report: Tood, Peter and I headed up to Chair today to hit up the North Face because we heard it was fat and wanted some nice alpine ice. The going was tough up there and we regretted leaving our snowshoes in the car. After post holing a million times we made it up to the notch where we geared up. I took the first pitch. Nice stuff. I set up the belay and got the guys up. We saw some other guys to our left at this point. Todd decided to take the next pitch of alpine ice and snow up to some trees. He pounded up there and belayed us up pretty quickly as a soloist came up behind us. We sorted out our ropes and I swung onto the third pitch. I consider this one the crux. Nice sustained water ice, good pro, pretty exposed for me but it was solid. I ran that pitch a full 200 feet so the guys had to simulclimb while I set the belay (I found this out later). I pounded a pin because I wasn't gonna trust the no-body-weight pickets, and belayed the guys up. Todd led out and hand belayed us up to the summit after sorting out the rope. After hanging out on the summit we headed down to the left of the false summit to the rappel. From here it was a slog down to the lake and out. Gear Notes: Screws, mostly short. 2 pickets are nice for belays. A couple flat pins are nice. Nuts? Probably no. Slings. Approach Notes: Bring flotation.

"I propose an Accident thread forum where accidents will be debated by people using their Real Names." Kinda like the culmination of the ideals of so many passionate realists. Sounds too regulated and sterile to me.

Looks cool.