rocketparrotlet

Salamander. That name sounds familiar. Is that a climb on the wall with the weed leaf on it?

Thanks for your advice, I'll keep all this in mind. I think that I will bring all of my climbing gear, some clothes and a few belongings, and not much else. I figure most things I need I can get at Goodwill.

I found a cam at the top of the second pitch of Great Northern Slab at Index. It wasn't placed, just sitting in the dirt. Tell me the brand and size and I'll send it back to you. -Mark

I was at Index today, making the traverse from the bottom of Roger's Corner to the GNS area, and I smelled some definite funk. I was horrified to find my shoe coated in slimy brown diarrhea. This is an absolutely disgusting and selfish in an area with such high climber traffic. Go in the bathroom before you come or at least have the decency to go in the woods, a couple hundred feet away from any climbs. It's not that hard. -Mark

The scary thing is that we vote dumbasses like her into office. Look at the results of the 2010 election.

I'll probably just leave my guitar here. Shouldn't be too hard to find someone at RPI, selling all their stuff to get out of the hellhole. I'm sure I'll find something cheap up there.

Thanks for the advice guys. It was a tough decision for me to make, but I figured that RPI is 3 hours from Boston, where I used to live, and I'd like to move closer to a place I know and like. Troy is a crappy city, admittedly, but that's okay- I really liked the campus at RPI. On the other hand, Golden is a great city, but I didn't feel like I'd be spending too much time on campus there. For the people that think I should transfer, the deadline for making a decision was May 1st. If I hate RPI, I'll apply to some other schools and transfer somewhere else, but I don't think that will happen. I've got a pretty good scholarship to there too. The Adirondacks are an hour from Troy. That's as close as any climbing is to me now in Everett. I know it's not Colorado, but there's still plenty of climbing to be done in the Northeast.

Well, it was this school or Colorado School of Mines, and I did not get a good feeling from the local people in Colorado...too many hippies, even less girls (believe it or not) and I have a few negative experiences with people from Colorado, but no positive experiences. Elaborate please.

Bad experience there? I'll transfer if it sucks.

I will be moving across the country for college (Troy, NY) and I would like to bring some of my larger/heavier stuff...what's the cheapest way to move 80+ pounds of climbing gear and various musical instruments across the country? -Mark

Way to go Marc! Glad to hear that route worked out, keep us updated if you redpoint!

I want to do this route so badly. It looks amazing.

Being able to do 20 pull-ups is helpful. I find that alternating underhand and overhand pull-ups helps. Adding in knee raises can be beneficial as well as an abdominal workout. That's been my experience anyway, other people will obviously have different opinions.

Wow, I've been on that "how to aid" guide for at least an hour now. Thanks for the link. I have one question that I haven't found yet. Say you're top stepping a piece and keeping daisies connecting to aiders so they don't fall off. Your daisy chain is stretching out under you. If you move onto the next piece and it blows during the transition, you take a daisy fall. This seems especially present to me when making a hook move above a bolt. However, if daisies are not kept connected to aiders, you risk dropping an aider and more time is sucked up clipping and unclipping with every piece. What is the best way to avoid this?

I thought the full Dana's Arch was sketchy A3, with weird hook moves...does anyone have pictures of it? If it's reasonable I would like to check it out. Green Dragon was a good first wall, for me at least. It gave me a taste of aid climbing and hauling without being too serious. As for the gear, we took triple small cams, doubles in 0.5-2 Camalot, single #3, a ton of nuts in all sizes, a couple sky hooks, and a couple cam hooks. This worked well for us. Cam hooks were pretty much necessary for the second pitch and helpful on the third.

This wouldn't be the wall in the "name this wall" game, would it?

2 hours to the cliff is not too bad. Glad to hear you got some clean Darrington granite!

What is MF?

Careful of the baby rattlesnakes, they don't have venom dosage control and a bite is much more likely to be severe/lethal than an adult rattlesnake. (It sure is cute though!)

Not sure how dry it would be today, but Rattletale was dry (except for the last pitch) and so was everything on the LTW.

Looking for a partner for Index tomorrow. Have rope and rack, lead 5.9, follow 5.10. I'd also be up for an alpine day trip.

I found Midway to be kind of difficult at the top. Maybe it was because I was pretty run out and kind of nervous, so I did it weird.

That's funny, they are the other kind of shoe I have. I don't really like them on slab. Also, I just had them resoled, and they are stiffer than before, unfortunately...

Looks Index-like...also, what model of shoes are these in the picture? I have a pair that I got used and I want another one. Great slab shoes.

I'm looking for some Darrington partners for this summer...none of my normal partners really want to go there for some reason. I'd love to check out some of these walls I haven't been to, like the Comb Buttresses and perhaps Dark Rhythm on Exfoliation Dome. Anyone interested? -Mark