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rocketparrotlet

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Posts posted by rocketparrotlet

    Sloan Peak

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    good work mark!! Your kicking ass this season!

     

    Thank you!

     

    Ok, that does it! Now I have to do this one!! Perhaps this weekend... I do have three and a half days off after all. Mark, if your willing to do this one again, let me know. Thanks for the update, and great work! This weekend was fun for me too in the North Cascades. Shame the clouds were blocking most of the views.

     

    I'd rather not do it again...I'd like to go somewhere else. Sorry.

     

    Where did you go in the North Cascades?

    Sloan Peak

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    Josh, I just climbed this yesterday. I thought about you on it a little bit.

     

    You would be able to climb it. It's not very technical, but it's just hard. I thought so anyway. Super fun though! You will be able to climb in two days like Tazz said, don't try it in one, it's too long and being extremely tired as you would be if you did it in a day would put your team members at risk. The route is very good though, the conditions are nice! We had no moat or bergschrund problems to deal with, and the river is only knee-high.

     

    I would call it a climb- easy glacier (PD-), and a little class 4 rock near the top. I went with one other person, we roped up on the glacier, but climbed the rock unroped. If you are uncomfortable climbing/downclimbing class 4 rock, you might want to rope up. Bring a light rope though, we used an 8mm 30m. Even moving at a steady, fairly fast pace, it still took us twelve and a half hours car-to-car.

     

    -Mark

    Sunday Climb-- Short Notice

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    From what I hear, you can usually make it across the stream without getting your feet wet this time of year. The early season heavy flow is mostly from snow melt, which means that the light rain on Sunday shouldn't make a difference.

     

    OK great, let's plan on it then!

     

    I'm 16, with glacier and rock knowledge. Should I bring a few nuts, or do you have that under control?

     

    -Mark

    Climbing Sunday, anywhere

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    I need a partner for Sunday, both my plans for this weekend fell through. I'd love to do something alpine, but a day at the crags would be fine too. I'm open to suggestions.

     

    I am 16, I have a rack, but no car. My belaying and following skills are solid, and I can lead easier (5.7 and below) stuff.

     

    -Mark

    Sahale Mountain

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    Are you kidding? JL is the king of the bicycle!

     

    Thanks! I love biking! And Mountains! So why not have both!

     

    270726.JPG

     

    Not looking good for Sahale, I'd stay off that for now. Just practice your rappells and knots and we can go climb The Tooth instead.

     

    -Mark

    Cordalette - shorten up tie-in point off boulder

    in Newbies

    Posted

    Neither of those looks all that stable. I would recommend:

     

    1. Reslinging the "boulder", doubled up

    2. Undoing the master point and tying it closer to the clipping point

    3. Tie a few overhand knots along the master point

    4. Or just use 2 pieces of double-length webbing instead, if possible

     

    The first one would work if you used a normal figure 8 as opposed to a figure 8 on a bight.

     

    -Mark

    Weekday Alpine Partner

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    I'd go for it! I'd love to get out anywhere! School starts for me on September 2nd, but anytime from now to August 31st is open, and weekends after that as well. Washington Pass is good, Leavenworth is good, Index is good, I like it all! I can follow 5.9 and lead 5.6.

     

    425-423-9385

     

    -Mark

    Redundant personal anchors?

    in Newbies

    Posted

    note that snoboy's scenario is without any slack. falling with slack onto a daisy, sling, or other non-stretchy stuff will generate a high shock load and is not good for the anchor, the daisy chain or your body.

     

    rocketparrotlet, what are you using for a personal anchor? how long was your fall onto it?

     

    there are a few reasons OSHA approved safety harnesses have screamers attached, one is to protect the worker's body from the shock load.

     

    I am using a BlueWater daisy chain personal anchor, rated for 24kN. I don't think it was a high shock load because I only weigh 50kg (0.5kN), and it wasn't a straight fall- it was more like I slipped, then swung a little before I actually hit the bottom of the PA; it wasn't a straight drop. It didn't hurt at all. I fell because I was tying a clove hitch to set up a belay, and I slipped.

     

    -Mark

    Index Friday

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    I might be game for it, if you can keep it down to lower ratings...I've only climbed at Great Northern Slab, besides that dihedral boulder at the bottom, the hardest I've done is Roger's Corner (5.9)

     

    I would love to get out and climb some 5.9's though! I'm not good enough to lead them, but I could follow them, and maybe lead easier stuff.

     

    -Mark

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