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rocketparrotlet

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    [TR] Leavenworth - Rainbow Falls and The Funnel 12/27/2009

    in Ice Climbing Forum

    Posted

    oh, sorry. thought you may have been uploading the pics to this website. if you wanna fix them you will have to resize the images and then upload them.

     

    I don't know how to do any of this...I tried to upload them to this website first, but I couldn't figure it out. I pressed the "submit" button, a new menu came up, and all my photos disappeared. You can see them okay on 30% zoom, but it would be nice if I could get these fixed. I've already spent an hour and a half to get as far as I am. (This is why I never post TR's!)

     

    -Mark

    Useless Summit Poster

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Just an observation here but you can see how well the mentoring thing worked out (or didn't) for Josh Lewis when he was outed on this site by someone from SP.

     

    Speaking of which, we haven't heard from Josh in a long time. I wonder if he learned anything from this site, or if he's up to his same old game.

     

    The mentoring thing is working fine. He's a lot more responsible than he was half a year ago. Banning him from SP didn't do crap though but make everybody angry and satisfy the admins.

     

    -Mark

    Ice Tools Wanted

    in The Yard Sale

    Posted · Edited by rocketparrotlet

    You could probably get a pair of Black Diamond Shrikes or X-15's for that amount. Just wait for them to come up on here or check Craigslist a lot.

     

    If you end up going to Second Ascent, bring me. I love that store.

     

    -Mark

    [TR] Leavenworth - Rainbow Falls and The Funnel 12/27/2009

    in Ice Climbing Forum

    Posted · Edited by rocketparrotlet

    Trip: Leavenworth - Rainbow Falls and The Funnel

     

    Date: 12/27/2009

     

    Trip Report:

    First TR, sorry if I don't get the format right!

     

    EDIT: Pictures resized, posted here: http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/586951/Ice-climbing-in-Leavenworth.html

    Giant pictures removed from this post.

     

    I went out to Leavenworth for some ice climbing the 2 days between Christmas and my birthday, making for a perfect holiday break! It was my first time ice climbing, due to a very generous invitation by Curt (montypiton). We went up Rainbow Falls (I think) the first day, where I learned technique and placing screws. I did a lot of "bouldering" (icicling?) at the bottom while Curt and his son Michael were climbing, testing out different tools and different swing techniques.

     

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    The next morning, we hiked up to The Funnel, a 2-3 pitch waterfall on Hubba Hubba Wall. The ice was more brittle and hard here, and I had to learn different techniques. I got a tool stuck on the vertical section at the bottom, and consequently fell trying to get it out. (Darn it!) When I reached the belay, I asked Curt where to stand, and he gestured towards a slightly less sloped part of the waterfall with a thin layer of snow. I remember thinking, "Wait, what? I don't see a stance...oh." It was cool to look at the anchor, built off a resident piton, Curt's freshly-placed piton, and an ice screw. I hung the backpack with our puffy coats and some hot tea and clipped my camera in to the anchor. This was all new to me, but what a fun experience! Curt brought Michael up and then led the second pitch, then Michael followed. A barrage of ice continued on throughout, with me looking up then consequently pressing myself against the waterfall repeatedly as chunks of ice bounced and shattered on my helmet. When it was finally my chance to climb, I undid the anchor and continued on to Curt and Michael at the top, noticing how small the front points on my G-12's were and how they barely scraped the surface of the ice, yet still gave me enough support to weight them.

     

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    The rappel tree, unfortunately, was about 20 feet above us. I led the short, unprotectable pitch (thinking there would be ice underneath, thus rendering it easy), but there was only powder snow covering rocks. I delicately continued up, and I hooked a small tree with my ice tool until I was able to climb onto the large tree, clip in, and belay Michael and Curt up. We rappelled back down, packed up our gear, and hiked down in the dark.

     

    All in all, this was a fun trip and I am very eager for my second time ice climbing!

     

    -Mark

     

    Gear Notes:

    I bought a pair of Aztars from Curt! It was cool getting to test gear before buying it.

     

    Approach Notes:

    Rainbow Falls is like 3 minutes from the road, The Funnel is about 1,500 feet higher. Totally worth the walk though! (Who am I kidding- I like hiking too.)

    [TR] leavenworth - rainbow falls/careno falls area 12/26/2009

    in Ice Climbing Forum

    Posted

    jeez frieh - we need to add an "embarrassed" smiley option to the posting form.

    thanks for the kind compliment - but i should really credit my discreet partners who don't give away the reality: the sketch, the bailing, the shaking (maybe even crying a little here and there) - that's behind the pictures :)

     

    If you never bail, then you won't be around very long to have the choice. We all get sketched, and a little Elvis leg never hurt anyone!

     

    -Mark

    Drury Falls mishap

    in Ice Climbing Forum

    Posted

    Webfoot (Dennis Webb) says...

    You can't fix STUPID!!!

     

    December 21, 2009 at 6:38 a.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )

     

     

    Gator (J Bone) says...

    I agree, Dennis. What were these guys thinking? "There is an element of danger. We accept that." - Being willing to risk danger is one thing, but being stupid and costing taxpayers money on a rescue mission is both stupid and selfish. Can't even blame Gregoire for this one.

     

    December 21, 2009 at 11:56 a.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )

     

     

    Webfoot (Dennis Webb) says...

    Gator--they certainly weren't thinking of the other folks that they put into a dangerous situation to rescue thier sorry butts!!

     

    I believe that the agency that has to rescue these fools, should also send them a bill for the costs associated with saving thier lives.

     

    Anyone that "takes the risk" should also be prepared to "take the bill" for ALL the expenses incurred as well.

     

    December 21, 2009 at 1:23 p.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )

     

     

    Gator (J Bone) says...

    Good point, Dennis. Do you or anyone know - do these guys have to pay anything? Or is this big rescue operation that saved a bunch of Seattle idiots just completely free to them, and everyone else has to pay for it?

    On a different note - of course these guys are going to say that they are experienced "ice climbers", but were they really? Would someone with experience be dumb enough to get into that situation in the first place?

     

    People like these make me sick.

     

    -Mark

    Possible ice climbs?

    in Ice Climbing Forum

    Posted

    I know that Snoquera Falls, a 400-foot waterfall near Crystal Mountain, freezes over in the winter. It looks like an amazing ice climb for the capable. However, I have not been able to find any information about it, besides the fact that a young woman died ice climbing there (a tragedy.) I am not interested myself in climbing Snoquera Falls, as it would probably be too hard for me, but I was curious to know if anyone else has or plans to, or if not, why not. (400 foot waterfall with vertical sections? Seems strange it's not more recognized.)

     

    Also, I'm assuming no part of Wallace Falls freezes over. Because if it did, everyone would want to climb it. Right?

     

    -Mark

    [TR] leavenworth - rainbow falls/careno falls area 12/26/2009

    in Ice Climbing Forum

    Posted

    My son likes the leashless setup on the Aztars he has better than the Cobras I got for him, so I'm selling the Cobras! Feels good to see his and my preferences validated!!! You look good! We added trigger-supports on ours. If you haven't tried it, you might experiment (don't do anything permanent until your sure you like it). Personally, I feel like supporting the index finger is like power steering for the pick...

     

    I bought one of those pairs of modded Aztars to use leashless- I guess I'm badass now...?

     

    Those climbs look sweet! If I'm in the area again soon (and I just might be in the next couple of weeks) I would like to check them out!

     

    -Mark

    Matched pair of 2009 BD Cobras

    in The Yard Sale

    Posted

    I don't see what's wrong with making a profit. If you have a problem with it, make your own ice tools. It's been done before. I briefly tested these tools and considered buying them; they are very nice, sleek, shiny, and they look just like new. Except sharper. I decided that they are just not my style and bought the Aztars instead...but $450 for a pair of Cobras is a great deal.

     

    -Mark

    The Eiger?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    That movie was enthralling. It convinced me to buy "The White Spider" by Heinrich Harrer, an account of the first successful ascent of the Eiger Nordwand (but you all probably know that). I hope to climb the North Face someday, to repeat that route. But that won't be for a long time.

     

    For now, I am looking forward to Leavenworth ice if I happen to go.

     

    -Mark

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