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rocketparrotlet

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Posts posted by rocketparrotlet

    Question about the Top of Sahale

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    I would disagree, the upper part of the Quien Sabe can be steep and icey this time of year. The 4th class is easy going up and you can rappel easily down with 40-50 meter rope.

     

    You can solo, just be prepared for some ice from 7,700' to 8,500'and a few larger crevasses.

     

    There usually is an anchor at the top to rappel from.

     

    He's going up the Sahale Arm route, not the Quien Sabe. I lent him my glacier rope yesterday. He's going with one other person, and he says that if it gets too technical or dangerous, he will be fine turning around.

     

    -Mark

    Index Sunday

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    Really? Nobody is interested in climbing easy to moderate routes at Index?

     

    I'll even lead the whole time if you want, I'm fine with that as long as you are fine climbing 5.7! I'd be fine following harder stuff too. I just want to get out.

     

    -Mark

    The Chronicles of Mountain Dew (Month 1)

    in Newbies

    Posted

    Good job! I would also advise Second Ascent for getting gear...I'm on a tight budget, and I've gotten quite a bit of climbing gear from there for low prices...just picked up a Lowe Alpine backpack for $60, it would have cost over $200 new!

     

    Also, drinking water straight from a creek is not a good idea...it can give you giardia, which is NOT something you want. Water filters can eliminate this problem, but for a dayhike, it's easier to just pack in the water you will drink. A way to make it taste better is to mix half water and half Gatorade.

     

    -Mark

    A Grocery List of Dumb Newb Questions!

    in Newbies

    Posted

    Poly Pro=polypropylene, it's a stretchy material used for baselayers. Things like Under Armor work alright, the Patagonia Capilene is a nice baselayer.

     

    The puff jacket is similar to a normal winter puffy coat, the only difference is it weighs a lot less, you will find that ounces can make a difference (especially when they add up to pounds!)

     

    Here you go, you can buy Freedom of the Hills online: http://product.half.ebay.com/Mountaineering_W0QQtgZinfoQQprZ2439034

     

    -Mark

    Question about the Top of Sahale

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    It's not the going up that's scary, it's coming down. If you feel comfortable downclimbing 4th class, do it, but make sure your partner is ready for it. Another option is to take your glacier rope to the summit and rappel down the 4th class section, but don't belay up if you don't have pro.

     

    Of course, if you have to question your decision up there, and it worries you, turn around if you don't have the materials. Safety is key.

     

    -Mark

    A Grocery List of Dumb Newb Questions!

    in Newbies

    Posted

    This advice is great! I took a course from the Mountaineers to learn climbing skills and glacier travel, and I read Freedom of the Hills (7th Edition) to learn and refine my skills.

     

    I am very glad to hear you are out getting after your dreams!

     

    I made my first attempt on Rainier this August, but it was turned around. Oh well. If you follow your dreams, you can achieve them!

     

    -Mark

    Index or Darrington Friday

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted · Edited by rocketparrotlet

    I have Friday off to climb, how about sometihng in Index or Darrington? I was thinking G.M. at Index and some stuff at the lower wall, and there's some routes I'd like to lead there too (easier stuff). In Darrington, I was thinking maybe Dreamer or Safe Sex, or something on Three O'Clock Rock. I can follow 5.9, lead 5.7. I've got a rope and a rack, but no car.

     

    -Mark

    Sloan Peak

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    good work mark!! Your kicking ass this season!

     

    Thank you!

     

    Ok, that does it! Now I have to do this one!! Perhaps this weekend... I do have three and a half days off after all. Mark, if your willing to do this one again, let me know. Thanks for the update, and great work! This weekend was fun for me too in the North Cascades. Shame the clouds were blocking most of the views.

     

    I'd rather not do it again...I'd like to go somewhere else. Sorry.

     

    Where did you go in the North Cascades?

    Sloan Peak

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    Josh, I just climbed this yesterday. I thought about you on it a little bit.

     

    You would be able to climb it. It's not very technical, but it's just hard. I thought so anyway. Super fun though! You will be able to climb in two days like Tazz said, don't try it in one, it's too long and being extremely tired as you would be if you did it in a day would put your team members at risk. The route is very good though, the conditions are nice! We had no moat or bergschrund problems to deal with, and the river is only knee-high.

     

    I would call it a climb- easy glacier (PD-), and a little class 4 rock near the top. I went with one other person, we roped up on the glacier, but climbed the rock unroped. If you are uncomfortable climbing/downclimbing class 4 rock, you might want to rope up. Bring a light rope though, we used an 8mm 30m. Even moving at a steady, fairly fast pace, it still took us twelve and a half hours car-to-car.

     

    -Mark

    Sunday Climb-- Short Notice

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    From what I hear, you can usually make it across the stream without getting your feet wet this time of year. The early season heavy flow is mostly from snow melt, which means that the light rain on Sunday shouldn't make a difference.

     

    OK great, let's plan on it then!

     

    I'm 16, with glacier and rock knowledge. Should I bring a few nuts, or do you have that under control?

     

    -Mark

    Climbing Sunday, anywhere

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    I need a partner for Sunday, both my plans for this weekend fell through. I'd love to do something alpine, but a day at the crags would be fine too. I'm open to suggestions.

     

    I am 16, I have a rack, but no car. My belaying and following skills are solid, and I can lead easier (5.7 and below) stuff.

     

    -Mark

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