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Posts posted by rocketparrotlet
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Looks awesome! Great job on the FA! Have you climbed the route with the big waterfall to the left of it as well?
-Mark
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Good TR Josh, and what a trip! That was a long day, and I'm glad we went.
-Mark
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I'm looking for a partner for Exfoliation Dome this Saturday. The weather looks great!
-Mark
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Me too, Eldorado is top on my list for this weekend.
-Mark
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Looks awesome! I'll have to get on this when the weather clears up.
EDIT: I'm looking for a partner for tomorrow March 6th (probably the best weather we'll see for a while), PM me if you're interested.
-Mark
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I had a frog jump onto my hand while climbing. Twice. Once at Mt. Erie and once at Index.
A couple of days ago I watched a climber take a fall on ice. I had never seen/taken a leader fall before. He was slowly and methodically working up a steep section on Bow Falls in Canada, and he was pulling a bulge at the top of the hard part. Suddenly I hear, "FALLING!" and he just peels off the route. His ice tool was left hanging there in the ice, 20 feet above him. He had to walk out 3 miles on a sprained ankle. Luckily we got his tool and pro back.
-Mark
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alright. Want them all?
Yeah, I'll take them all. I need to build my cam rack up.
Will these need to be re-slung or are they okay?
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How are Darrington and Index looking now?
-Mark
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I'm interested in the cams.
-Mark
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Your scout group is much cooler than mine.
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Are there any screws remaining? I'd be interested in the Express and the 360 screws.
-Mark
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Awesome video and pictures!
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Do you lead mixed?
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Index in condition? How quickly does the GNS/Lower Wall dry up after rain?
-Mark
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Will do. We probably will end up doing something else soonish. I think we saw your tracks. We even followed them for a while near the summit. Didn't seem worth the risk considering I had no pro available and it was dark with a 30 foot runout.
Yeah, that was probably our tracks. We turned around as well- scary mixed with no pro sent us back just short of the summit.
-Mark
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Well good luck on that route, make sure to report on how you summit if you are able. We turned around 50 feet from the summit because of scary mixed.
Tell Todd I say hello.
-Mark
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Major stokage! That's intense.
-Mark
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I can't get my pictures to download...
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So Snoqualmie Pass ice is in? When we were up in McClellan Butte North Couloir, there were a couple 8-foot high flows and the ice seemed pretty rotten.
Is there any WI2-3 in?
-Mark
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I can't wait until Exfoliation Dome is dry!
-Mark
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I saw that the OP mentioned that the screws were pretty much worthless, that doesn't make much sense if the ice was fat and the temps were below freezing. Good to know there is ice though, I might take a trip soon!
-Mark
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Snoqualmie Pass ice is fat right now? How protectable is it?
-Mark
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Anybody in the Everett area interested in practicing z-pulley? I need to brush up on my skills, it's been a while.
-Mark
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Plan for McClellan's Butte this Sunday so far:
-Rocketparrotlet
-Stewie
-RokIzGud
-Josh Lewis
Sound right?
As for gear, I will bring a harness, a picket, carabiners, slings, a small rack of nuts (just in case), and I can bring a shovel. Anything else?
So what rope should we use? I have an 8mm 30m glacier rope and a 10.2mm 60m rope. We could use somebody else's rope as well. Just wondering what length rope you would prefer, I would be good with either.
-Mark
[TR] FA-Black Spider-Center Drip-Mt Hood 3/6/201
in Ice Climbing Forum
Posted
Sorry I wasn't able to read it straight from the video.
Maybe in a few years when I know what I am doing, I will give it a shot! Such a beautiful route you put up. Congrats!
-Mark