rocketparrotlet
-
Posts
621 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by rocketparrotlet
-
-
Some stuff has come up, I will not be able to climb this weekend. I'm sorry.
-Mark
-
I'm busy this weekend, never mind.
-
If something doesn't work out, I'd be up for this. I can follow up to 5.9, lead to 5.6. Index is awesome for cragging, some good alpine routes are at Washington Pass on Liberty Bell and South Early Winter Spire, but it's pretty far north. There's great routes everywhere here.
-Mark
-
EDIT: Never mind. Misread post.
-Mark
-
Are you kidding? JL is the king of the bicycle!
Thanks! I love biking! And Mountains! So why not have both!
Not looking good for Sahale, I'd stay off that for now. Just practice your rappells and knots and we can go climb The Tooth instead.
-Mark
-
OK then, thanks anyway.
-
What's the condition of use on the link cam (has it taken any falls, how many times has it been placed, etc.)
-Mark
-
This site might be helpful to you:
http://www.nichols.edu/departments/Glacier/
The glaciologist in charge of this, Mauri Pelto, is pretty helpful, you should send him an email. He probably has some data on this, seeing as it's his entire career.
-Mark
-
I've heard mountain bikes. Just had a trip a week ago that would have been N. Twin, but we changed to Lundin because we didn't feel like dealing with bikes, too.
-Mark
-
Neither of those looks all that stable. I would recommend:
1. Reslinging the "boulder", doubled up
2. Undoing the master point and tying it closer to the clipping point
3. Tie a few overhand knots along the master point
4. Or just use 2 pieces of double-length webbing instead, if possible
The first one would work if you used a normal figure 8 as opposed to a figure 8 on a bight.
-Mark
-
I'd go for it! I'd love to get out anywhere! School starts for me on September 2nd, but anytime from now to August 31st is open, and weekends after that as well. Washington Pass is good, Leavenworth is good, Index is good, I like it all! I can follow 5.9 and lead 5.6.
425-423-9385
-Mark
-
note that snoboy's scenario is without any slack. falling with slack onto a daisy, sling, or other non-stretchy stuff will generate a high shock load and is not good for the anchor, the daisy chain or your body.
rocketparrotlet, what are you using for a personal anchor? how long was your fall onto it?
there are a few reasons OSHA approved safety harnesses have screamers attached, one is to protect the worker's body from the shock load.
I am using a BlueWater daisy chain personal anchor, rated for 24kN. I don't think it was a high shock load because I only weigh 50kg (0.5kN), and it wasn't a straight fall- it was more like I slipped, then swung a little before I actually hit the bottom of the PA; it wasn't a straight drop. It didn't hurt at all. I fell because I was tying a clove hitch to set up a belay, and I slipped.
-Mark
-
Sorry that it didn't work out because, I don't have a vehicle either, if anything changes and you need a partner, just let me know!
425-423-9385
-Mark
-
I might be game for it, if you can keep it down to lower ratings...I've only climbed at Great Northern Slab, besides that dihedral boulder at the bottom, the hardest I've done is Roger's Corner (5.9)
I would love to get out and climb some 5.9's though! I'm not good enough to lead them, but I could follow them, and maybe lead easier stuff.
-Mark
-
Sure, I'd love to go!
EDIT: I can't go tomorrow (Thursday). I'm open for Friday and Saturday though, SEWS or Index both sound great!
-Mark
-
Bump
Changed some stuff
I'm still partnerless.
-Mark
-
I may be interested if things don't work out.
geckozoo@gmail.com
I have a little bit of glacier experience, know z-pulley, snow anchors/belays, etc.
-Mark
-
Trip Report coming eventually, I have it manually written on paper, it's 20 pages long! By far my longest trip report I have ever written. I went with a guy named Dan, he was very nice and patient.
I was at a bible camp serving for 3 weeks which I had an awesome time!
Hey Josh, you're back!
Glad to hear you climbed Mt. Baker! Are you (were you) safe?
-Mark
-
I'm just learning to lead, but I like nuts the best. The cams I have (Technical Friends) have a tendency to walk a lot, and then get stuck. Or maybe I just suck with cams. Anyway, nuts are great, I should get doubles in the middle sizes. Nuts are great, hexes are cool, tricams are mostly a novelty (except rarely when you really need them, especially pinky), and cams are a pain but necessary. At least in my experience.
-Mark
-
-
I might be able to get out on Sunday, not sure where yet. The crags would always work. I can follow trad to 5.9 and alpine to 5.7, still learning to lead. I'm 16, can't drive, only got a day off, but if that works for you, awesome! I'd love to get out.
-Mark
-
And finally, regarding the umpteenth TR of Tooth syndrome, well, that TR might just offer entertaining writing and beautiful photos, or an innovative viewpoint or treatment, so why not? Reading them is voluntary, after all. In addition, that TR might be about someone's first climb. They're stoked, and they want to share that. Frankly, that keeps all our stoke going, IMO.
The Tooth is kind of a testpiece; at least it was for me. It was my second alpine climb and my first lead (I led it before any sport/trad route). I might consider writing a TR for it (or some of the other mountains I have climbed, for that matter) if they weren't so frequently climbed. It's the "umpteenth TR of Tooth syndrome" that keeps me away from trip reports.
tvashtarkatena: I completely agree with you here.
-Mark
-
I'm looking for a climbing partner for any type of climbing. My dad is moving away soon, and I will need to meet some people to go climbing with. I am interested in all types of climbing. I know basic skills such as following/leading on rock and z-pulley on glacier. I have been practicing leading at Index; I can lead up to 5.7 and follow up to 5.9. I'd love to meet up with some new people, I'm open to climbing suggestions! I love both the crags and alpine settings.
I am 16, and I do not yet have a license, so I'll pitch in for gas money wherever we go. I have basic climbing equipment and a moderate rack. PM me or email me at geckozoo@gmail.com if interested.
Thanks,
Mark
-
An overhand knot would cause a sling to lose 30% at most.
Are you sure about that? My understanding is that rope tends to lose about 30-35% due to knots, but webbing loses closer to 50%.
I've heard less- webbing loses 20-35% (an overhand knot would be on the lower end), and rope loses 15-30%. Also remember the strength webbing is rated for, compared with the strength of a bomber placement.
That's what I was taught in a Mountaineers climbing course, anyway. If you do not feel comfortable with this approach, then just do what makes you feel comfortable. More redundancy is never a problem.
-Mark
forbidden, beckey route on liberty bell, triumph?
in Climbing Partners
Posted
Is this weekdays or weekends? If it's weekends, I'd be totally open for Liberty Bell, or another climb. Got school on weekdays, though.
-Mark