rocketparrotlet
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Posts posted by rocketparrotlet
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I live in Everett. It's 2 hours to Leavenworth, 1 hour to Index, and 1 hour to Erie. Maybe I could go to Leavenworth with him next weekend for a couple of days, that would be sweet.
-Mark
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I could go to Mt. Erie. Leavenworth is way too far for a day trip, though.
Anyone been to Index recently?
Maybe I'll just go next weekend.
-Mark
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I would be going to teach my friend basic climbing skills, aid is not on the agenda.
I'll have to see, maybe we could go somewhere else instead. This weather is not nice.
-Mark
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Since I haven't been climbing in crappy weather at Index before, is it even worth it? I'm going to be taking an inexperienced climber to teach him some things, he won't do any leading, but it still requires a greater degree of caution.
Will the rock be too wet to be safe, or will it be fine? (Also, will it be any fun?)
-Mark
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Amazing trip! Beautiful scenery, great video.
In the name of speed and weight, I assume you guys never roped up. As someone who is just starting to research glacier travel, I was wondering what factors you took into consideration when making the decision. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
They went into it with the full knowledge that a single error could kill one or both of them.
I would recommend always roping up on glacier travel until you have a full knowledge of self-rescue scenarios and are comfortable facing the consequences.
I am not ready to go on glacier unroped yet.
-Mark
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I don't see the problem with it.
Would you consider all gear stores to be bad then because they buy stuff that they will not use, and then sell it at a higher price?
Seriously, nothing wrong with trying to make some cash.
-Mark
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The Nose at Mt. Erie can be overhanging-rappelled, but it's pretty short, and only a little part (~15 feet) is overhanging.
Seconds on Leavenworth, I did my first overhanging rappell there, it was very fun.
-Mark
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Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills by Craig Luebben
A very good book, he has (had) a lot of sound advice. It really helped me to evaluate my placements.
-Mark
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There's plenty of good toprope climbing at Leavenworth in Icicle Creek Canyon, think Bruce's Boulder and Barney's Rubble area.
-Mark
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I've seen bears in the Cascades twice, both times they lumbered away. They really aren't out to "get you"; bear killings are very rare. Might as well be afraid of crazy drivers or something, they're much more likely to kill or harm you than bears are.
-Mark
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Looking to buy some Camalot C4's, especially #1, 2, and 3. Maybe 4.
http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Black-Diamond-Camalot-C4s/BLD0839M.html
-Mark
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http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Black-Diamond-Camalot-C4s/BLD0839M.html
20% off Camalots! Not too bad...
EDIT: Free shipping! Also, if you have some of these you want to sell, I might be open.
-Mark
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Remember also, Simpson to this day defends Yates's decision to cut the rope.
-Mark
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If something doesn't work out, I am looking for a partner for Exfoliation Dome West Buttress this weekend.
-Mark
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I know this is last minute, but a partner bailed on me for Index tomorrow...anyone interested in heading up there? I can follow 5.9, lead 5.7, I have a rope and a rack, but no car.
-Mark
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I've placed the #0.5 a few times, it's the only piece of pro that has its own webpage devoted to it!
http://www.swarpa.net/~danforth/climb/sinkthepink.html
I also placed the #1 and the #2 once each. I've been leading for 3 months now, and I see more use out of the pink one.
-Mark
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Might be interested in the #3 C4- has it been fallen on?
EDIT: Possibly the #4 as well, I'll have to see.
-Mark
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Looking for a partner to climb the West Buttress of Exfoliation Dome next weekend. If interested, let's meet on Sunday at Index. PM me if interested.
-Mark
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Hey Josh,
Saw this thread was bumped up again.
Well, Josh is doing better (not perfect yet), but he has become somewhat more responsible from his failures. I am teaching him rock climbing in the hopes that it will be useful to him, which I believe it will. He recently turned around 100 feet from the summit of Sahale because it looked too sketchy, that seems like a responsible decision to me.
Anyway, I learned to climb from a Mountaineers course, I have mixed things to say about it, but I will not get into that now. I am teaching Josh almost everything I learned from that course, albeit in a different format, one which would have been more helpful to me.
Josh, I've got a book for you to read, it's called "Rock Climbing- Mastering Basic Skills" by Craig Luebben. I learned a lot from that book, and even though I already knew the skills, it really helped me to improve them and learn some new things.
Don't post your Rainier trip reports, especially not the first one. I'm not getting into that crap again.
-Mark
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Sucks when you don't flake out the rope and you have to deal with that crap on belay...
I learned that lesson really quick.
-Mark
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Speaking of Exfoliation Dome...
I was thinking about climbing it via the West Buttress route. I can follow 5.9, lead 5.7. It looked like all the even pitches are 5.7 or below! Think I could swing leads on it? What's the runout like? Also, could I camp at the base of the first pitch?
-Mark
Mark, there is one pitch, I think the 3rd, which is 5.8. The others are easier. If you take the even pitches, you will be fine. The climbing is not run out at all. No water at base of first pitch. Not necessary to camp. Camp at the road if you like, but get an early start and you'll be fine.
That sounds beautiful. I might just have to try that out sometime!
-Mark
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Sweet! I was very worried about you. I thought you got hurt or worse! Good job turning around. The mountain will always be there, we can climb it another time. I'll bring rock pro and lead the last part.
You'll have to tell me about it!
-Mark
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I think Catbird is right.
I was introduced to Darrington by people who had been out and at it for a while.
Three o'clock is fun and I climb there at least a few times a season but IMHO Green Giant, Exfoliation Dome and SQW are really what Darrington is all about.
Speaking of Exfoliation Dome...
I was thinking about climbing it via the West Buttress route. I can follow 5.9, lead 5.7. It looked like all the even pitches are 5.7 or below! Think I could swing leads on it? What's the runout like? Also, could I camp at the base of the first pitch?
-Mark
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You probably won't get giardia, chances are very slim. I'll bet you will all be fine. It's just a good thing to know, because there always is a chance.
-Mark
Wet rock at Index?
in Climber's Board
Posted
Yeah, I was worried there wouldn't be much chance for climbing. I'd get into ice climbing/winter climbing, but I don't have the money.
4 hours of driving is quite a lot for a single day spent at a climbing destination. The problem is only perpetuated because my friend is pretty poor, and the $20 gas cost to Leavenworth and back is a lot of money to him.
I know that Index doesn't have much easy stuff, but I'm trying to teach him multipitch trad. Index seems to be the best for this, since I don't have a Leavenworth guidebook and I've never climbed anything multipitch there myself. There's definitely enough 5.6 and 5.7 at Index to go around for a while at least.
I think that teaching is good, because it reinforces the things you have learned and provides you reasons for why you do things a certain way. (In climbing specifically, the reason is often, "because if you don't, you die.") I think that one-on-one instruction is the best way to learn, I wish I had received more of it myself.
-Mark
-Mark