redlude97

Please delete this post. Camping there isn't legal and things have already started getting crowded with the forestland parking shutting down. Keep this info on the DL for the rest of us and/or use the PM function.

On the topic of cleanup at exit 38. In the last 2 weeks sometime a bunch of the trees under the trestle on the trail on the way up to deception before substation were chopped down. Anyone know the reason?

Seriously consider leavenworth, mazama, nason, or index instead. Driving more than 45 mins to 32/38 is a waste

Does anyone know the camping situation way up on mountain home road by the bouldering? last time I was there people where camping but I don't know the official status

quickdraws don't need to be lightweight. Instead of 10 Oz draws, get 14 posiwires or 16 freewires for the same price.

Was there on saturday but didn't venture into town or icicle. Stayed in the tumwater/castle rock area and there was no detectable smoke other than the smoke visible near the peaks.

The smoke is terrible, the particulate count hazardous. I'd recommend you wait until next July to climb in Leavenworth again. If you are in the Seattle area, please tell all your climbing friends the bad news as well. Haha I should have known this is the response I would get. I understand us city slickers are not welcome

Does anyone have an update on the conditions in L'town? Was looking to head that way on Saturday for some cragging/bouldering in icicle and tumwater. I don't think any of that is closed but is the smoke pretty bad or anything?

Yea I know most of the various free camping available, but so do a lot of climbers. I also know the ticks aren't too bad right now, I was just there last weekend and didn't encounter any. I am a yuppy seattleite, but I spend enough weekends in leavenworth to know how things go. I was more wondering if the number of people will be insane, heck the parking lot above barney's rubble was the busiest I've seen it this past weekend(Outdoors for All and SAR practice didn't help) and we still managed to have a good time

Kind of a last minute plan to head to leavenworth for some camping/climbing but I hear it can be packed. Was going to head out Friday afternoon to secure a spot in icicle if possible or tumwater. For those that have been there in previous years, do I have a shot, or will it be too packed? Any other good places to camp that aren't too far from the climbing?

Some SAR guys rolled up as we got back to the parking lot at deception around 6pm asking about an accident that occured somewhere at exit 38. This must have been it. Saw lots of sketchy stuff for the first real sunny weekend of spring at 38. Let's hope we don't hear too many more of these stories.

Anyone have an idea if 38 will be dry this weekend? Some rain up till friday but dry and high 50's. 32 at world wall should be okay but it can get kinda busy. Was thinking of heading to amazonia or peanacles

Are they still charging $5 at grasslands? I know last year we showed up and didn't pay for 2 nights and didn't get hassled. The car was only there at night though while we were sleeping. I know some people just camp on the other side of the fence to avoid the fee

high lane

You can't keep pussyfooting on both sides of the fence. You keep saying your company is producing the same products for the last 8 years and nothing has changed, and at the same time say you are using your own designs. You designed those products when still a part of mad rock, and thus it is their intellectual property, even if you yourself produced the designs. So if you really want to legitimize yourself, throw out the old line and start new. You have the facilities, and seem to still have some of the people who designed those other products for mad rock, so come up with some new products. Differentiate yourself, no one needs 2 of the same product in this market under different brand names, what is the point?

It is actually 5% on rei purchases and 1% on everything else (minus a few exceptions). That is actually not that great of a card if you are not planning to buy tons of stuff at rei. There are tons of cards out there that will give 1% for everything and something more (3%) for specifics, like gas, which we spend a lot more on. plus it looks like you have to wait to the end of the year to get your "rebates" and it must be used at rei. Really, this is a lame credit card. (as is most credit cards) Well you still get your 10% with an additional 5%, and the rebate does not have to be used at REI, if you don't use your dividend they mail you a check

I'll take it! Can meet somewhere on campus at UW

Hike out to the beach in tumwater and get on the arete over the water before the level drops too low and it becomes a sketch highball. Got on it yesterday and it was amazing!

My experience at Smith is that not one person I saw at the morning glory wall or dihedrals area rappelled, while quite a few did when in the lower gorge fwiw.

The guidebook for Exit 32/38 mention lowering almost exclusively throughout, I would tend to think they are or consulted with the developers when writing the book. What is your opinion in that case?

Thanks everyone for your 2 cents. I see that a lot of you were more general in your answers in that you always rappel even through chains. One thing that has always stuck in my head from my mentor about lowering is that developers often set chains in high traffic areas and expect them to be lowered through. The reason being that it is significantly faster to be lowered than to set up a rappel, and in very busy areas this is more convenient and a courtesy to the climbers in line behind your group. So in those cases I think that lowering is not only accepted but encouraged.

So I was originally taught by my mentor at sport crags that lowering through chains was acceptable, but that when rappel rings are placed you should thread and rappel. This has also been my experience watching others at places like exit 38/32, vantage, leavenworth, broughton and carver. My understanding that this was always the general consensus in the northwest, but was recently told it was basically BS and its perfectly fine to lower off rappel rings at anchors. These anchors are usually put in on routes that are less traveled and the rings are harder to replace. What are everyone's thoughts?

marymoor route guide

I believe dave page has the new vibram xsgrip2 for resoles. I just had them do a pair of scarpas that had xsgrip and he said they only carry the new stuff now.