Lafayette

Hi Gang, Hoping to gain some wisdom from the CC collective. I'm looking to continue my peak bagging that started this summer. My question is that as we get into fall and winter where can I start looking? Are the glaciers on the big mountains too broken up to be passable? Any ball park estimates on when the snow pack makes them passable again? Cheers, W

Can I get on your email list for this by any chance? I'm more than happy to play the role of dummy.

Eastern Washington, Eastern Portland, East Coast?

I could be interested. Any chance you'd like to do two climbs in the area? That's a long drive for me.

but only if your avatar name is incorrect....don't want the pistol brought out in the car.

Trigger happy, if you can make it to P-Town, you can get a ride from here.

Hey all, Anybody else out there interested in doing some climbs during the week? I know many of you might be busy with jobs/wives/life and I understand that. I'm free basically Monday-Thursday evening every week. And many weekends. I'm more comfortable doing alpine climbs, however I'm trying to learn rock. Have some experience and ability, still learning more. Cheers, W!ll

what routes are you interested in? I'm curious if I'm up to snuff. And when is your planned return?

same question hockettw at gmail dot com if available

Thanks for the information. The corollary to this question, is how does the Mazama climb grading system translate to traditional American Alpine Grading? Is a 'd' level climb a grade III or IV? I have received standard crevasse rescue instruction. Untested in a rescue situation, but still confident of my ability. Is crevasse rescue covered in BCEP? I'm weighing the cost of a $500 instruction course, vs just a plane ticket to Columbia or.... for a real climbing adventure.

Hi, Just curious if anybody has any good/bad comments about the quality of the education given by the Mazamas. They run an intermediate school from Sept-Feb that I have been considering. Has anybody out there taken it before? It's not until late in the course that they cover high angle snow. I'm just concerned if the class is advanced enough. BCEP, which is the pre-requisite, doesn't seem to teach all that much. Cheers, Will

I enjoyed the FC on the way up. But was not a fan of the descent.

This is something I have wondered about as I have both a snowboard and a rock helmet. I was under the impression that the gap left between my skull and the plastic of the mountaineering helmet protected mostly from rock/ice fall bouncing along. A protective inch or so that could prevent it from cracking my skull. Whereas my solid snowboarding helmet protects mostly from a concussion. Spreading the force from a fall out through the membrane of the plastic and the solid styrofoam of the helmet core. I don't know the proper terms to use for these but the difference being, the force contacting in a small area vs. An equal force but a much larger footprint. Think, falling backwards, tumbling etc.

Same question. Anybody know how this course stacks up vs others offered in the area? It fits my schedule, but want to be sure that it's a good value for my wallet.

WOWZA, very cool Wayne. Very very cool.

I'd just like to add that around 5 am I saw a fantastic meteor enter the atmosphere. I was facing up slope, and thought that somebody behind me was taking a picture with a flash. Turning there was shooting star hanging visible for a few seconds before splitting in two and flaming out. Curious if anybody else was out late that night and also saw it.

Trip: Mt Adams - Mazama Glacier and Headwall Date: 7/22/2009 Trip Report: I climbed with a group of five. Sven, and Steve, the most experienced were on the first rope and explored the route through the crevasses. I led the second rope, with Cory, and Monte behind me. Just as we were trying to fall asleep at the isolated Sunrise Camp (8300') we were surprised by 70 (not kidding) church camp kids between the ages of 13-16. The adolescent squawking had us awake before the alarm went off. Leaving camp we roped up as soon as we hit the Mazama Glacier a little after midnight. With full packs we planned to make the summit and descend the south ridge. The weather was very warm, I would not have wanted to leave later and encountered the crevasses when they were softer. Midway up the glacier we encountered at least a dozen, large crevasses. Five of which necessitated small leaps of faith. In the dark finding the easiest route was quite difficult. Rope troubles caused the second rope to slow down, and I had to search for the path taken. The route follows along the right side of the Mazama glacier. Taking detours around crevasses it stays mostly along the rock ridge. By the time we reached the height of the Castle, we were hit by stong pre-sunrise wind. We moved fast up the gradually steeper terrain until we arrived at the Mazama Headwall. It is only one rope length, but the overall angle approaches 80 degrees. The route stays left along a shorter stretch of the headwall, but misses two large crevasses. While steep, it is deeply suncupped. This makes for large 'stairs' but I question the ability of anyone to arrest on that type of terrain. Lead group placed two screws, I added a picket. Sven belayed me from the top of the wall. Once there we finally dropped our heavy packs and followed the trail to the summit. I hope this TR helps, it is my first attempt at writing one. Leave early, avoid the crevasses and enjoy your climb. Gear Notes: axe, rope, crampons. Used two ice screws and two pickets on the headwall. Approach Notes: Please consult other TR's on the well marked route to Sunrise camp. FYI, running water at Sunrise. Beautiful location with Klickitat ice fall and the castle to the right.

I'm looking for people any time in the first two weeks of August. I'd like to start with the standard routes. Competence, and fitness are pre-requisites.

I'd do it for fitness. Still going?

PM'd

which route?

In the same boat as Jmo. Can you keep me in the loop? I've got enough skills for it now. By mid-August I will have completed a 12 day course with AAI, and be eager for Rainier.

On the Diamox topic. My understanding is that this just hides the symptoms of AMS.

PM also....but looks like others might have beat me to it