Lafayette

a hot day for spantiks

When the child is real little their waist is so small that the harness doesn't 'lock' down above the illiac crest. The fear is that if they flipped backwards there's a chance they could slip out of the harness. Hard to have happen, but ya never know. That's why a chest harness or a full body can be necessary with the lil guys and gals.

I'd plan for the cold, and hope for the warmth. I've found October weather can change quick.

I gave the J-Park a go on Wednesday night (9/22). Just a quick conditions update for ya... Went straight up the middle to 9200 feet. The bridges were sphincter tightening, but the snow was steep and solid. The first Bergschrund can be passed on the climbers left through a patch of snow that shows some signs of rock fall. We didn't do this, instead going directly through the first berschrund zone. This is around 8800 ft if I remember correctly. The second bergschrund is where we met our match. It is possible that another team, with a different skill set can still make it up and through. There's a wall of solid glacier ice, with a snow cornice overhanging the top. It looked like you might be able to traverse it all the way left to negotiate around the cornice. I gave it a try, but no luck. I don't know if it goes, but it might be possible to get onto the rock ridge on climbers right and traverse above this upper problem. There is a pretty big moat/ice/rock chute on this side but there could be a bridge across. It was a solid hike, fun times, but no summit. So it goes...

The Petzl lit rates the Meteor helmet between -4 deg F and 95 deg F. Does anybody know how the foam behaves outside this temperature range?

emailed, lets do it

So I would like to share a small spreadsheet that a buddy and I mocked up in excel. We're just a couple of geeks and thought it would be an interesting experiment. I was looking for a way to objectively measure the 'cost' in calories of each piece of gear, and especially all those extra personal items. While not important on weekend hike, as the trips goes to 2 or 3 weeks that 1/2 lb book can require a large amount of food and fuel. What this spreadsheet does is allow you to enter your body weight, trail grade, mileage, and gear to compute how many calories you'll be burning. It makes a number of assumptions to keep it on the simple side. If anybody has any ideas or improvements I would be happy to hear them. https://spreadsheets.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AuSAKF-Mz6i3dENWRGU5elNhYTRxTjExT1pvRk5uYXc&hl=en_US

Hi, I will be driving from Portland to Skagway/Haines Alaska. I plan on leaving the third week of April and taking about 4-5 days. If there's good weather I'm definitely stopping to climb in Squamish for a couple of days. I have a Subaru Outback wagon with room for 2 more people depending on gear. If anybody needs a ride I'm looking to split gas and driving. If you're headed up further I can drop in Whitehorse, YK. Cheers, Will

That is a perfect distinction

Once upon a time.....well it worked last January. I can't say I know the guy well, but we correspond via FB. He said he recouped some of the traveling costs back. It's by no means a get rich quick scheme. As for traveling I took 6 months off in college. Went back and finished and found the degree has helped me stay on the move. Up to 6 continents, and an absurd number of countries. Most of the last 5 years have been on the road. That little slip of paper has opened some cool doors. Would it have been possible without it? Maybe, either way I look forward to seeing the path you choose.

FWIW: I've seen three different people with Toyota pick ups planning on selling them in Argentina. Apparently there is a high demand, and maybe a high import tariff where a solid truck bought here can be sold for a tidy profit in Argentina. The story I heard is that it is at least enough to cover some of the gas money, and airfare home.

You'll have some of the best work days of your life. I'm sometimes incredulous that I'm actually being paid to hike and climb in such beautiful areas. But as the other posters alluded to, you'll also pack your belongings and your life into a suitcase. It's the double edged sword of travel.

FWIW I just emailed the Denali NPS staff and was told...."the mountain use fee for Denali and Foraker is $200, and will definitely remain at that level throughout the 2011 climbing season. No need to rush in order to 'lock in' at a lower price if you plan on climbing this next season."

ouch

Thank you for the informed replies. It is definitely something that interests me. But will not be in the cards in the near future. I was also curious to hear from people that are actively practicing the sport. Besides it beats having Boadman and I build a really really big zip line. Just because my post was brief, does not mean that I do not understand the extraordinary risks involved. If I do choose to pursue this I will likely post online, watch a couple of videos on you tube. Only after this extensive training regimen will I start hucking myself off buildings.

Hey, Just wondering if any of yall base jump off climbs. I'm curious to hear how you got started doing it. Seems more interesting than rapping off. Cheers, W

Adding to the general theme. Go for it. Be sure to take off for long enough until the economy recovers. I graduated 4 years ago, so I'm about the same age. I put off regular 'work' and got lucky with a couple of jobs. I've now been able to travel to 6 continents, and a bunch of countries. The travel can become addicting, but after scratching the proverbial itch I have matured to the point that I am now ready to settle down. Maybe after your trip you will be ok with coming back to the desk jockey position. Enabling you to savor the pay check, good food, and stability that home has to offer. By traveling now, you will be investing in yourself and your future career. There are also a number of organizations that are looking for engineers in third world and sustainable applications. Allowing you to spend time abroad and simultaneously filling in resume space. PS when you give up your engineering job, can I get it? Good luck, happy travels

Hi, Just wondering if anybody has any information on the NF Tempest Tent built 1996-1997 it's Single wall /Single door Expedition Tent?

What is the purpose of some bot computer program creating this?

I looked up the HMI course because it seemed like a unique adventure. I contacted the HMI coordinator and he gave me the email address of brit who had completed it recently. Unfortunately, I can't find his email at the moment. The brit guy had some experience going in and said that while it was very different, it was also enjoyable. He did say that you need to be careful about the safety. Indians tended to use runners, and slings longer than most climbers in the States would.

Trip: The Ecuador Adventure - Date: 12/9/2009 Trip Report: This is part one of the South American Adventure. A TR of Aconcagua will follow… Step one: locate wind. Step two: pick up caution. Step three: throw that shit out. Like All good stories this starts at the bar.... I met Mike in between rounds of whiskey shots at a Government Camp dive. We were both finishing a first aid course that weekend when fate threw us together. Mike’s plan was to climb some peaks in Ecuador, then head to Argentina and try out Aconcagua. For the previous couple of months I had been trying to find a partner to do the same trip. Badgering friends, and even trolling online climb partner postings. I crammed my junk into a freshly purchased duffle bag and was on a plane to Quito 9 days later. Somehow, I had managed to finish a number of finals, and term papers in a tiny amount of time. Mike and I are both solid intermediate climbers. We headed south not to put up new lines but to climb some mountains, test ourselves at altitude, and have a great time. After acclimatizing on Rucu Pinchincha, Illiniza Norte, and Imbabura. Imbabura is off most climbers standard itinerary. It should be included as it's a more interesting acclimatization hike. In the small town of La Esperanza is the kindest hostel owner operating Casa Aida. Don’t tell my Mum, but Aida cooks the best pancake I have ever had! On the day I left, I ordered two of her delicious breakfasts. The climb is another straightforward walk up with beautiful vistas of the agrarian community. Leaving Quito after a heavy night of boozing our first real climb was Cotopaxi (19,347). With less than a 100 feet to the summit we turned around on the final stretch. The snow was exceedingly soft. Worried that the sun would hit it and make the descent more treacherous we called it a day within sight of the summit. The undulating snow slope next to the standard Cotopaxi route To get to the Cayambe (18,996) summit we crossed through an ice cauldron. We were sheltered from the wind in this huge natural auditorium, but the route was exceedingly difficult to find. Guides had told us that a serac had recently collapsed and drastically changed the normal route. Group ascending Cayambe. Lastly, we topped out on the 20,561 ft Chimborazo. We had met up with a british climber and the three of us split a truck direct from Quito for a $100 each way. Chimbo is a pain in the ass, and I dragged ass from the altitude. On the way to Chimborazo's Whymper summit. Mike during a gear explosion at SAE 60 bucks gets you a membership to the South American Explorers. In addition to being a wealth of travel information, they have a locked garage that can be used as a gear storage in between trips. Ecuador is an amazing country that is treat to visit. Friendly people, delicious food, and excellent travel infrastructure. The country is bisected by the North-South pan-American highway. Jump on a bus heading in your direction and get off at the nearest town. From there it's not too difficult to hire a truck to the refugio. Refugio's generally run 20-25 bucks a night, and include propane stoves, and running water. Gear Notes: We did the standard routes up these mountains. Nothing too difficult. To include climbing details would plagiarize the Bradt climbing guide that we used. White gas can be used to refine cocaine. It isn't allowed to be imported into Ecuador. Searching can sometimes find white gas in hardware stores but at exorbitant prices. The cannisters available at local gear stores don't have threads to make them compatible with a Jet Boil. Approach Notes: A long plane ride

Testing a photo post

Joe's Donuts in Sandy.....although usually bought pre-climb and left in the car. Stanich's on Freemont street if leaving Rocky Butte

With a buddy I attempted Leuthold's on the same day. Got to the base of it about 4.30. Unfortunately, we made a wrong turn in the dark. Ended up traversing the top of the Reid and eventually over to west crater rim. Any chance you saw two sets of fresh tracks and where they diverged from your route? I need to hike back out there to identify exactly which couloir I was in.

I think ClimbMax is doing a thing where it's like ten bucks to try out different rock gyms on Wednesday nights as a social/trial climb type of event.