mzvarner

looking for leightweight, obvious middle mark (bi-weave, or the little feather thing, or robust inking)and 60m. Beal joker looks promising.Thoughts and opinions?

Up for moderate trad. Get a hold of me via PM

Looking for a day of crack climbing. I can meet up tonight or early in the morning. I will be coming from spokane and have to leave vantage by 4 pm monday to work that evening. zach 509-385-8160

Trying to get a collection going of some of the great ranges. I would like to if d maps similar in quality to the national geographic illustrated trail maps and preferably in English. I'm looking for Alaska with the Ruth gorge and popular peaks with in there ( foraker, hunter, Moses tooth, Denali, ect. ). The souther ice fields of Argentina with cerro Torre, el chalten, fitz Roy, etc and the. For the Himalayas with everest and close peaks along with the Karakoram

Two big name Norwegians died this weekend along with an experienced climber from Oregon who died decending mount hood.

Trip: Chair Peak - NE Buttress Date: 2/11/2012 Trip Report: Had an exciting trip up the NE Buttress this past weekend. The route is in climbable condition, but protection is horrible at best. My partner took the first two pitches. The first involved a few steep moves with solid sticks in alpine ice and decent rock pro. He gained the snow couloir and made it to the trees with out a hitch. I quickly followed and he was off again on pitch two. Pitch two was easy snow scrambling to a rock outcropping with good pro. Again, i moved quickly to the anchor, grabbed the gear and began my lead block. The first two pieces were great right off the anchor and about 20 feet above. Then things got exciting. I attempted to place a picket in the snowfield but managed to slam it in by hand...great useless. I didnt worry too much yet because, even though the terrain was steep and exposed, the snow made for great sticks and kicks. I continued up to a rock outcropping another 40ish feet above hoping to find good pro. No luck. the rock was brittle and crackless. All the gear (cams, nuts, and pitons) were either to big or too small...now i began to worry. After yelling the situation to my partner I decided I had enough rope to make it to the 8 foot ice step where a v-thread and screws would be welcome. Upon arrival, the screws went in one inch before i spun into air. FUCK! After more yelling of the situation, we decided to do a running belay and as soon as I could get pro I would set up a belay. So another 40-50 feet up I again managed to place a picket by hand. I began to belay hear praying that there my partner did not slip because we were now a stones throw from the summit. Obviously there was no slip and things went off with out a hitch after that. I was rather humbled by the events though in light of the death of three climbers this weekend. I realized how close to a serious situation I was and how unacceptable it was. Enjoy the pics https://picasaweb.google.com/mzvarner/ChairPeakNEButtress Gear Notes: Take what you want, its going to be mental pro anyways. Approach Notes: Less than 2 miles but lots of elevation gain!

Considering heading north this weekend to give Skyladder a shot. Anyone have a conditions report they can share? Zach

Looking for some one in Leavenworth that would be interested in shuttling two climbers and gear to the Stuart/Colchuck trail head on Friday the 17th. Gladly pay gas money.

AMAZING!WHERE IS PART 2?! How far back were you guys and how many days did you stay?

KICK ASS! My GF wont boulder anything that tall

By now I know that ice is not to be expected in the runnels. I am wondering if any one knows of a good picture showing the two other variations in relations to the runnels? I would like to have a picture to compare to the mtn when standing at the lake. Thanks

@ marc leclerc- I think I might have both. I notice knee pain while descending from climbs. But while running I have laterla pain. @ W- THANKS a lot for telling me about that foam roller stretch. I had to improvise a little because I didnt want to buy a foam pad, so i am using a football instead!

DAMN! Where can i get some, there hard as hell to find. Only place i can find is on the east coast.

Are these the same replacements used for the G14 front points? http://www.mountaingear.com/pages/product/product.asp/imanf/Grivel/idesc/Forged+Spur+for+the+Rambo+4+Crampon+%2D+Pair/Store/MG/item/114170/N/1035%204294967240

THANKS! That link was very helpful. I definitely think I need to add more stretching to my routines.

W and you explain what the foam roller is? as for the knee problem, I dont notice patella pain from running, its from long descents like coming down from Muir or Adams. do you still think it is irritation from bone one bone? Zach

I just started running again so i am sure my muscles, ligaments, tendons, and bones are not used to it yet. I experience sudden onset pain on the lateral side of my right knee. It tends to occur with in 10-15 minutes if beginning a run. I also experience pain there and above the patella on long downhill descents as well. Here is my question about it 1. Would a knee brace help, and if so what kind? 2. Is the pain in two different locations related or different problems?

Thinking of making a day trip monday. Do you think banks is my best shot, or should I look more north?

wow this thread got a few replies fast. Thanks for all your input.

I climb sport, long trad, alpine, ice. Im looking for light and packable thats comfy, with lots of room for gear and takes ice clippers. Whats your take?

Looking at getting some new tools. Trying to decide between the B-rated Quantum tech or the T-rated Matrix Tech. There is less than one oz weight difference between them. I have tried the quantum tech, and curious if there is much of a difference in swing between the two.

Thinking about getting new picks. What are the pros/ cons to the 3 different picks offered by BD. I currently have the laser picks, but have modified/ filed them so they are not standard by any means.

Hey Craig, can you tell me what some of the other moderates (3-4 range) are like over there right now? zach

Hey , thanks for the reply. I am not able to get out now though. Thanks anyways.

I can leave work at 4pm wednesday and come back friday evening. Open to ideas. Denman peak, Lane Peak, Hood, Etc.