mzvarner

I would love to get up to Banff, only problem is school. I will be taking two lab classes and not usre that i will have enough time to take the required days to get up to Canada. And that is a good poitn made about the high amounts of snow forecasted. I didnt consider that things would not be climbable. So where are other decent ice climbing locations that are semi local?

I asume that for hard packed snow (alpine ice?) you can either place a pretty solid ice screw or pound in a good picket How do you protect steep semi-consolidated snow? Do you carry a bunch of pickets and take the time to dig a deadman? Or do you climb close to the rock wall and hope you can find spots for nuts, cams and pitons?

what are some good beginner alpine routes? I have had very little exposure to steep snow and even less exposure to pure ice and even less to mixed climbing. I was thinking that things like the North face of Lane peak, Chair peak, maybe some of the steeper routes on Colchuk might be good places to start. Also some of the mellow routes on Hood like Reid headwall and Leuthold coulior. Then for ice i was thinking any thing WI 2-4 should be ok like Hubba Hubba? What are your thoughts and when do you think these would be coming in?

ya im not worried about weight, in reality avi probes, even the long ones are light. I was just curious.

Hey John, What was the South side like? Schrund conditions, Old chute is is steep and icy, or is the boot track you mention in referance to the South side route?

Any one know what the shrund and conditions are like right now on the standard route? Im thinking of heading down in a few weeks.

What is a good length probe to own? And what is with all the different lengths? Is it all dependent on the depth of snow pack and how much weight people want to carry?

Ya I just got an E-mail back from BD about their Mercury mitt. I asked-"Recenty I came across a review saying that the shell [of the mercury mitt] its self does not have the BDry (only the thick insulated liner), therefore not water proof only water resistant,is this true? and is it possible to get some more info on what the BDry is (similar to Gortex, Event, ect.)?" "the bdry, which is our proprietary gore-tex (basically), is on the liner, as the shell has a lot of leather. I usually treat the leather with snow-seal as well, which makes them double water-proofed."-Adam Smart

Cool, but correct me if im wrong since i have never been to AK and dont have a plethora of experience here either. The snow in AK is not nearly as wet as what we tend to get here in the Cascades. Any one have any issues "here"?

Any one have any experience with these? I am debating on these or the BD Mercury Mitt. Aso how is RAB and sizing? I know that for BD if they say medium i actually need a large. http://gearx.com/rab-modular-mitts.html?feed=P_Base_28914

Just how dry is it? Is it comparable to gortex, MH Conduit, eVent?

Cool! in searching your blog, I found what I was looking for. Here is a link for any one else that might be wondering the same question. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/02/old-school-technology-on-modern-ice.html

F#$K YA! just what I have always wanted! But seriously, will it make them less secure or rigid?

What are the consequences (good and bad) of cutting the little flimsy aluminum piece off the front bail? Mine gets stuck in weird positions and makes puttign them on a little weird at times because it does not want to shift.

Cool!Thats a lot of beta. I guess i was beign very optimistic when i said i want a system to cover ALL that terrain. But any ways, lots of advice. Thanks

I am trying to nail down a good system, here are my theories. I am trying to get a system that works nicely for both a weekend in Hylite or Lake Lousie and climbs like Chair peak, Mt. Stuart, Kautz, etc. Pretty much anything in the cascades. I have noticed that my hads DO get cold easily and can be hard to warm up as well. #1- I use two ice gloves (I have the MH Hydra and am considering the BD Punisher or OR extravert). I would climb to the belays with the opposite set in my jacket so they would be warm and dry. I would also carry a big warm glove or mitten for camp like the BD mercury. #2- I use an "ascent" style glove (BD glisade or OR Arete i think the arete would be beter, the inner liner is removable there fore i can use the glove in a few different ways and carry only an extra liner to swap out) Am i getting closer to a good idea? what works for you guys?

thanks Chris... I felt like such a tool for this post. Right after i made it, i saw that thread...lol

So whats the difference? i just got a set of vipers, and was just curious what the pros and cons to the diffent tooth styles, thicknesses, etc. what seems to work well, for each discipline?

I dont want to start a war here, but i like the climbing at Dishman. I spent three hours cleaning a route there earlier this summer (Body Scarfer .12b i believe). All it needs is a little TLC and its good to go. Idk to much about the history there.

So I want to play with dry tooling a little bit. I have not climbed very much ice or mix. What is the proper ettiquete? Can i dry tool crappy moss covered climbs at local crags, Is there a "dry tool" crag in WA?

F@#K! Non of the cool stuff ever comes to Spokane

I dont plan on doing routes that consider a ton of hammering, but I would like to have a few pitons to bail off of or use in an anchor. What would make a good assortment for the cascades? Also, what is a good number of ice screws for a begginer to have and of what sizes. These would go to montana, canada, and here in the cascades as well. Thanks

what are your ideas about alpine climbing in the cascades with them. Seems like it is a good way to double up on cams and save weight. Not to mention cheaper to bail off of if the need comes up. And what are the pros and cons of each brand

I am starting to get into alpine routes now. I'm still pretty new, and looking to lead things under 5.9 for a while, however i will follow just about anything. My schedule allows for four days off in a row, which is great for climbing just about any where. if your interested end me a PM.

SWEET!