mzvarner

GREAT ADVICE! I have thought about doign the aiding thing, but just have not had "the time to waste" but now that summer is here, i have tons of time. Thanks again to you all.

So a little over a year ago i fell and had gear ripp and was pretty messed up (ya im the tool from spokane...now we can move on past that part). Im just now getting over my fear falling again (on bolts) how can i push my mind into being comfortable on gear. I went to the Royal columns at Tieton and had to down climb a (the book says dirty) 5.7 around a roof. I need advice, I know what "good gear" is ( to bad i had to learn the hard way) But I can not get myself to fall on it. HELP!

thats what i was planning on doing, is going to one are, im just wondering mhat other options i have.

my 21st is in August and i have 4-5 days for a trip. I need ideas. I looking for some mellow trad (totally hapy with anything in the 5.5-5.9 range) or lots of sport in the 10-12b/c range. on the list now is -going to WA Pass/Mazama -Lake Louise -blodget canyon, MT -city of rocks? -smith (to hot?) thanks

Im looking for good comprehensive guide books (in english) to the following... Patagonia All over Alaska (mainly Ruth Gorge) Bugaboos Potrero Chico Thanks for the help

any one know how the SW couloir is right now?

Awesome video! It is great to see some logistics in Alaskan climbing. One day I will have the time, money, and skills to play with the big boys too. GREAT WORK!

Being back in school made me realize I can't afford to buy the freze dried/ dehydrated meals all the time now. However I'm tired of taking just powdered mashed potatos and oatmeal. What kinds offiod are you guys taking? I use the reactor stove so prefer to take "just add water" meals. I also have a vaccum sealer. Also I'm looking for a tag line. I am currently using the Edelwies laser 9.6x 60m. I'm looking for a lite line I can keep in my pack until it's time to rappel or maybe use for some lite hauls.

So I use the La Sportiva Miura VS for sport and bouldering. I'm looking into a trad shoe I'm thiking maybe the katana lace up or the TC pro ( how do these climb.) Any suggestions

I totally agree they are unsafe,and I would definatelly stay away as much as possible. However, I am sure there will be some times when it is the only way up. Thanks Dane. Any other suggestions.

My girlfriend is looking for a double boot. Trying to stay away from plastcs, but I have not seen any specifically for women. Does she just need to try on some spantiks or baruntse or am I just not looking hard enough?

What is the proper way to tell if it is safe to mess with then how do you go about tunneling thru or climbing over it?

depending on conditions and what happens with school this week thinking of going to ski the south side route. what time should i leave the car if i'm wanting to do it car to car?

Very cool link, thanks for that.

Thinking of doing a two day climb/ski of south spur. Wondering about ski crampons, Do i need them? Or ar snow conditions generally pretty food for just skins?

you take amazing pictures. looks fun

im looking at getting a set (edelwiss oxygen). i know that with half ropes each rope its self is rated, so falling onto one strand is ok. you are also able to reduce rope drag by staggering your clips. however, do you have to stagger your clips or can you clip both strands into individual pieces if there is no rope drag, or is this increasing the force put on the piece if it were to catch a fall?

how are conditions looking on it now (12/3/09). im wanting to skin/board it.

im wanting to get out, if some one has ideas or needs a partner send me a pm or email. im off monday thru thursday.

I was thinking of going to Mt. Baker in about three weeks to set up a top rope and start messing with some ice climbing. However, with the closing of highway 20 i think im lookig for another option with out the crazy drive. I have heard you can do the same thing some where on Mt. Hood. Any suggestions would be cool thanks.

So i hav made up my mind, and im going to go back to school. i have doen about a year but needed to take a year off to try to figure out what i wamt to go for I still dont know what i want to go for, bu ti do know i cant stay were i am now. So what jobs are out there that mesh well with the climbing lifestyle. thanks

i have the reactor, but am looking at the PCS. Its lighter, boils the same amount of water and it does it faster. you can even get all kinds of extras like a hanging sytem or frying pan. Whats the rest of the community think?

i know its spring i was just saying its on the list as well.

My goals as a climber are to do light and fast ascents in all aspects of climbing. This includes Mountaineering, alpine climbs, and summer rock. One thing i have been pondering for a while is which is best, gore-tex or softshell fabrics. I own a set of both, but have yet to really use the goretex. Any ideas, and im considering new softshell pants, so any ideas on those too would be good.

So my two main climbs i want to do this year are, triple Coulours on DT and the North face of Grey Beard. the closest to alpine climbing i have done is the DC on Raineir, and then i tried an M6 locally (GOT WORKED). I have never done just ice climbing. So where do i start and how can i reach those goals?