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YocumRidge
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This caught my eye and I'm a little curious. Was the left crampon in this photo detached at the toe? If not, what did you determine was the cause of the crampon issue?
Regardless, that's a scary place for a tumble, glad he was able to self arrest.
At this point we decided to rope up – Brad’s crampons had developed biting issues just before he fell 10’.
My understanding there was some glitch when Brad swaped mono- front pieces for the dual ones (used on J-burg) which did not align well with the connecting bar. As you can also see, the front pieces lack the anti bot plates which he badly wanted to have on in that couloir.
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The “class 4 my ass” might be avoidable, but it is mountain goat terrain for sure.
Agree. We traversed over through the snow bowls for too long until dead ended and too late, and it was so comforting to get some relief from the exposure. Should have cut up much earlier in one of the better looking gullies leading to the summit ridge.
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FYI: Remodel Hell did not prove to be eternal, so there's now a decent bed available for those passing through Seattle in need of shelter.
The sheep couch was very comfy as I recall...
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was thinking more about pre planned stop overs between J-burg and portland. Like staying at Pat's house in seattle.
Not J-burg, Gene.
That was after Rainier when I got a plenty of sleep on the summit the previous night and was driving home at a very reasonable 5 p.m.
Hence the question, but sounds like I should have made myself stop and take naps anyway...
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Trip: Johannesburg - CJ Couloir + East Face
Date: 7/30/2012
Trip Report:
Johannesburg, the “savage peak with a high epic potential”, which is made of scheisty schist…
The seed was planted by OlegV in da winter a while back:
And later by Ivan; the good friends they are and have a good taste in this life.
I had to get up on the J-burg again and hopefully to make more upward progress than last year with Ivan on the NE Butt - his secret object of infatuation
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I somehow talked my friend Brad into driving over to the North cascades to climb some vague peak he never heard of, except for its famous 10 min approach - I am proud that my marketing skills are seriously improving these days
. The hard-to-resist 10 min approach to the base of J-burg has its price to pay for later on, however. We left PDX and arrived at the Cascade Pass p-lot at 2 a.m. After getting a couple hours of sleep we teamed up with Buckaroo who was eager to climb the CJ couloir to the col and down the same day.
The Cascade river is fairly active this year with no snow bridges left to cross on, so we took the green diagonal gully next to the old avy path down to the river rather than starting at the usual hairpin turn.
It was not clear in the morning, so here is the pic showing the 3200’ CJ couloir taken from Forbidden last year:
Starting up at the base of the couloir:
Brad passing through the constriction:
Higher up in the couloir:
Some sections were steeper than we expected. Brad is approaching one of the upper crevasses:
At this point we decided to rope up – Brad’s crampons had developed biting issues just before he fell 10’. We then simul-climbed the last section through the cornice and found some bona fide ice in the process.
Simul-climbing the last section to the col:
That took good screws:
At the CJ col looking over to Formidable:
After a 20 min break and dropping some gear at the col, Brad and I went up the East Face to the summit ridge while Buckaroo got some zzz at the bivy.
We traversed over the snow finger to the base of the infamous “white granite staircase” that supposedly represents the most solid rock on the East face of J-burg (thanks to Buckaroo for the pics):
Although we had a rope with no pro between us for a while, it was quickly packed away when I barely missed a few objects coming down on me from above. Some of those objects were kewl though. As was this piece of turquoise schist:
Myself high on the white granite staircase:
After reaching the heather benches, we traversed north and up through the snow bowls towards the east ridge:
This is where I suspect we made our first routefinding mistake and went too far north (right). I would appreciate if someone who has actually climbed the route will clue me in on this one.
We encountered some loose exposed class 3 and 4 as expected and that took a while to get used to or is it just me being retarded?
Sometimes we had bright moments too, so that our minds were able to rest for a while:
The loose class 3 and 4 transformed into the equally loose but much steeper terrain which was not expected:
This is where the best part begun. Brad, being a 5.11 climber, shouted from above: “class 4 my ass” which made me ponder my slim chances for survival. I suggested that he better rig some kind of anchor and toss me the rope if he does not want to see the blood spot down below at the col
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The anchor was 2 fixed angles in the bolder on the summit ridge. I did not realize at the time we were so close the summit ridge. The actual summit was however a long way to go and did not seem to be anywhere near the promised class 2-3 with cairns and wandering around the gendarmes. Probably because we topped out on the summit ridge too far north.
Brad on the knife edged summit ridge (the summit is behind the steep snow slope in the distance):
The best option might have been to traverse and then climb up the steep snow on the north side by the junky looking grey tower, although I am not sure if anyone has actually done that. Our estimate was another 2-3 hours. With the dodgy forecast for the next day, the descending at this point seemed like the better idea. “The descent” was a nerve-racking combination of rappels and downclimbing pretty much the same way we came up, except we did not traverse over back to the white granite staircase but took the direct line straight down to the bivy site at the col.
Room with a view:
Moon over Formidable:
Next morning we downclimbed the couloir back to the car. 4 hrs.
I will always take steep downclimbing over the extensive hiking, searching for the elusive Doug’s Direct and am not particularly looking forward to the 657 switchbacks of the Cascade Pass trail. The Sill gl. Ice cliff seems to be very peaceful these days and during the two days we were up there, we did not notice any calving or ice avalanche activity. The glaciers are steadily recessing and the previously powerful ice cliff is now reduced to this remnant:
Buckaroo took the cl.3 bypass option for the descent - the rib between Cascade Peak and the CJ couloir. The same 4 hours to the road from the col:
Gear Notes:
3 screws, 2 pickets, a small alpine rack
Approach Notes:
P-lot
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Staying awake is not the problem for me, Kev, but the ability to concentrate is.
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How do you deal with those long drives after high endurance climbs that take everything out of you? Anything to increase the mental alertness except caffeine?
I have just recently survived the car crash after ending up in the ditch but oh man, that was scary...
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7/26 - cruise'n to young warriors w/ nastia - bit of a scorcher after noon, specially for the devushka clad all in black - shiiiiiity roadwork delays on 14
Ah, Beacon is always nice! But, oh man, the freaking heat is a killer for me, I have almost passed out at work
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Very nice TR, Matt!
Congrads on your first Rainier summit.
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Way to beat the marginal weather last weekend, S!
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Apparently, FA of the Tahoma Gl. on Rainier on Aug 11, 1981 was by Philemon B.Van Trump, Alfred Drewry, Dr. Warren Riley and Riley's dog (deerhound).
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Nice, nice, nice!
Light and fast.
Yocum Ridge looks well frozen in place and is asking to be climbed. In July. Who would have thought?
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Nice one, S! Too bad about the views.
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looks like a tough guy, i'll give him about 30 seconds in an average bar fight in poland.
I went drinking with a bunch of polish friends recently. I've never seen anyone drink vodka out of full-sized water glasses before. Hardcore.
No, everclear would be better, vodka out of a normal glass- a normal tool for an average party. Nothing hardcore about it.
Vodovka? Come on, guys, he is british. Abbot Ale - as good as it gets!
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Assuming the decent weather holds through this weekend, I am looking to climb Jeff Park Gl. (including summit pyramid) on Jeff. I know the approach.
Alternatively, something on the north side of Hood. Possibly, Coe's Icefall which should still be in good shape.
Or I would drive to WA if you have better ideas but so far the Wx looks better in OR.
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As of last Sunday 06/24, it was OK on the south side below 10K, and then one foot of fresh sugar posthole over old ice above 10K, not the best thing in the world.
The north side is probably more stable and wind blown as always.
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There might be fire season in the Rockies, but it never dries out in England and my hardcore british buddy seems to enjoy it:
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I dreamt about them last night. Wonder what Freud would say aboot that.
Dan, I am not Freud, but I would say that you are ready to start climbing again
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Nick Hall...
I simply cannot believe it. It is so devastating.
A former North Cascades park ranger and then the Mt. Rainier climbing ranger (2008-2012). RIP.
I knew him well and climbed with him.
He was registered as "OrangeVan" on CC but being too modest, he did not post much.
This was buried in the MRNP forum: New ice line on the Sunset Amphitheater headwall
Nick on the headwall:
Later on Shuksan:
At Baker seracs:
Here is Nick on Beacon rock during the vid shoot for Jim Opdycke last August:
During his duty on the Emmons gl, July 2011:
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1028983
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KER, the knife edge ridge, connects the Smith Rock and the Mohler Tooth on the south side of Jeff Park Glacier. According to Jeff Thomas in Ore High, it is rated Rime :
: or 5.1 rock when it is melted later in the season. The KER is the crux feature of the Jeff Park Gl and Russell Gl routes accessible via Jefferson Park. We approached KER via Woodpecker Ridge which is not the standard way and it is NOT described in Ore High. It is however shorter than via Jeff Park. Woodpecker Ridge starts right at the TH#3442 off the road 040, going eastward and SE and then parallels Mill Creek to the north before merging with the Russell gl ridge (11a) below the Prehistoric Monster.
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Mt. Jefferson C2C via KER in winterish conditions, hmmm...
The week before the last weekend one foot of fresh snow had successfully emerged both on the approach and on the mountain itself and was quickly transforming into rime at the higher elevation.
Good and painful times were had by all last Sunday. "All" is just two of us - we had not met a single soul on the second tallest Oregonian peak that day. How weird is that
.The approach was an ass kicker ranging from postholing, jumping across the moats and tree wells to a full on north cascadian bushwhack. Not something I would like to do again. At least, not right now. Chain saws might also be helpful for making your way along the FS roads. So, come prepared.
The tools were useless on the toilet paper rimed KER. Your best bet is to use hands and excavate as much rime as possible to make holds to stem against. Do not fall - there is no reliable pro in that compound on the entire ridge.
It doesn't look too fun of the route, but is a good training for Yocum!Except the Yocum Ridge has a much more user friendly approach and is wider than 6 inches
But then again, the grass is always greener ...For those looking for the info on the Jeff Park Glacier, it is in a very straightforward solo shape right with the two shrunds easily passable either on the right or left. See pics below.
Our descent had certainly its bright sides too. The Prehistoric Monster tower decided to hit me on the head with a rime bucket that almost knocked me off my feet. Then the avy had happened down the North Mill Creek gully as a result of cornice failure in the afternoon sun. Thankfully we stayed on the ridge all time.
Jeff Park Glacier top out and the upper shrund to the left of Smith Rock (looking down from KER):
On the top of the first gendarme:
Low on KER:
Happy arrival on the summit ridge in the afternoon:
Mohler Tooth on our way down:
Fast growing baby rime:
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I second taking the chute instead of the NR all way down. As Dan mentioned, if you look up from the camp, the exit to the chute is about 2/3 up on the NR and next to the obvious chossy gendarmes.
40 deg at most. Two times I was up there, my partners glissaded the whole thing.
Also, see p.61 in the brown Beckey. The chute is the upper dotted line connecting the upper NR and lower Adams gl. via the snow slope.
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The traversing over the "gnarly rock pile" above the shrund to the base of the gullies is the crux IMO. I cried there before, what a sketch, no matter when it is done. Strong work!
[TR] Johannesburg - CJ Couloir + East Face 7/30/2012
in North Cascades
Posted
For you - yes, but you are an unicum who keeps coming back there for more...