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YocumRidge
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Thanks for the approach improvement beta and for the correction on Psycho Therapy.
I wish we were able to find at the time the passage from the NW saddle - that looks like a sweet shortcut that puts you straight down to the base of the NF. Now in retrospect, all that side hilling, loosing significant elevation on the west side and then gaining it back again in the basin were not the happiest moments of our lives while on Mt. Borah.
As for the Psycho Therapy, both lines seem to follow the same couloir before splitting below the tower: the left was nicely filled with ice, the right (named "Phycho Therapy") was dry when were up there - in October. Perhaps, it is a seasonal thing hence my confusion.
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Why bother? Might as well go with flip flops.
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Check out the 5.10 Hueco, Pat. Comfy all around all day shoes.
I am currently selling mine, but it is mens US 8.0...
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Up for sale these used once and almost like new womens SALEWA Rapace GTX mtn boots.
One of the lightest boots for summer alpine climbing available on the market, hybrid crampon compatible, Vibram soles for superb traction, waterproof and breathable, US womens size 8. Made in Italy.
Retails $280, asking $180
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Yes. North face and other things for that matter, Brian
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Trip: HOOD - Coe Glacier Icefall
Date: 5/11/2013
Trip Report:
OlegV and I climbed the rarely visited Coe glacier Icefall on the north side of Hood in two rounds for full measure.
10/05/2012
On a nice day in early October, we started at the Cloud Cap and took the around Hood trail #600 towards the beautiful Elk Cove. 5 min from the parking lot, the trail ended in cliffed out banks of the Eliot creek, not producing much confidence after the 2006’ washout. After rapping down in the creek, Oleg, a brave soul, “led” aka free soloed the other side with precariously hanging boulders to the top of west Eliot morain.
Eliot Creek crossing was very enjoyable and certainly a highlight of the entire trip:
Yep, don’t do it:
Oleg on the trail #600:
After reaching west lateral morain of Languille gl., we cut south towards the Coe:
And dropped down on Coe @ OV2 (7400’):
Things on Coe were looking good and as expected: bullet-proof alpine ice and holes everywhere.
After reaching the lower icefall, we pitched in the tent in protected spot which was a job on its own:
[video:vimeo]50950067
As always, Hood made its own fancy clouds at sunset:
Next morning we packed up and headed up trying to get through barricades to the shelf leading to the Snow Dome which was not happening as fast as it should had:
The higher we got the more we were finding ourselves surrounded by bottomless abysses. Ice features were more intricate than on Price:
With the lack of upward progress, we called it quits somewhere in the middle of icefall and made our way down on the endless V-threads.
The chess game. We lost it this time:
Eliot Creek crossing followed.
05/11/2013
With the Cloud Cap road still being closed, we settled on the standard approach via Snow Dome given in Ore High. Due to different work schedules, we started separately at the Tilly Jane TH @ 3800’. While Oleg was getting off work, I uneventfully hiked to the Snow Dome @ 9100’ and pitched in the tent by the shrund.
North Face is thin, but in. The shrund is wall-to-wall, so take you chances.
Oleg emerging on the Snow Dome:
At the camp:
Next morning we slogged down to the notch marking the start of the famous “crappy gully” and downclimbed 1000’ to the Coe below the hanging icecliffs:
The traverse to the middle of the glacier was sketchy. Here it is where you’ve got to sprint across the obvious runway made by objects falling off the hanging icecliffs.
When we thought we were in the safe spot, Oleg punched through the crevasse but climbed out of it. For some bizarre reason, I followed his example and ended up in the same crevasse after another bridge failed.
Happy to get up on the solid ground:
Lower Coe icefall:
We rope soloed the entire route as it was in more straightforward shape than back in October. Kind of disappointing, really.
Approaching the upper Coe:
Upper Coe:
Jumping over more crevasses:
Oleg on the Cathedral ridge:
Oleg on the summit ridge:
We descended the Cathedral ridge to the shelf splitting the lower and upper Coe. Getting down to the Coe was tricky as you gotta jump through the moat:
On the final slog towards the Snow Dome:
Gear Notes:
Screws and 2 pickets
Approach Notes:
Trail 600 or Snow Dome
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Price drop to $70 OBO.
Fits men's street size 6.5 - 7 or women's 7 - 7.5
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Hi Dasan!
Likewise, it was nice meeting you in Keystone. Thanks for the V-threads.
Yep, Wowie Zowie was in fat but its left side was mercilessly avalanching and threatened to kill. The right side looked more user-friendly.
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Yes.
But you can always leave in the afternoon a day before, bivvy at the stone shelter @Cooper Spur (6800') and get a few hours of sleep that way.
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It does not look like much was in before November last year, Bryan: http://forums.alaskaiceclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=789
A 19 mile wall will form up first I bet as the temps there stay way below than in Valdez:
We have also noticed a lot of long sick ice past the Thompson pass towards Glennallen: it was 5F there vs 30F in Valdez that day.
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Trip: Valdez, AK -
Date: 3/31/2013
Trip Report:
I hear there is a warm rock to climb somewhere but who needs rock if there is ice and it is already April. You just have to get there and find out for yourself.
In the end of March my friend JR and I flew into the former part of the Russian empire which our tzars so ingeniously got rid off in the 19th century. In Anchorage, we had rented a clown car ($7/day) thanks to J. Frieh’s advise:
and made that famous 305 mile drive to Valdez. Sometimes on sheer ice while passing the rigs flipped over and sitting in the ditches off the Richardson hwy, then over the passes in the blizzard, but imagine that - we slid off the road only once the entire trip!
Matanuska glacier en route to Valdez:
“Light dusting of snow” as per the local Wx forecast was a recurrent theme and Valdez happened to get 4 feet of fresh over a few days we stayed there.
No shit Alaskan transportation and accommodation.
Please note: a U-haul. Ivan used to live in one of those for a week BITD on his way back from Denali
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Port of Valdez in between the snow dumps:
200 m ice routes 5 min from the hwy in the Keystone canyon: Bridalveil Falls, Simple Twist of Fate, Keystone Greensteps, although this time anything less than vertical was generously snow covered, so be prepared to climb steeper lines or do a lot of snow excavating. Pick your poison:
We ended up climbing the bluest ice visible from the road:
Horsetail Falls 80 m (2x)
The Bight 45 m (2x)
Bridalveil Falls 185 m
Hung Jury 55 m
Horsetail falls with the wind formed caves and umbrellas (belay from the car if you wish):
On the Horsetail falls:
JR on the Horsetail falls:
The Bight:
On the approach:
On the Bight:
JR on the Bight (weird under the tree crawling top out):
Bridalveil Falls (JR is at the base, for scale reference):
On the p1 to the first cave on the left (bolts):
Starting up the p2 curtain and traverse to the second cave on the right by the “Killer Pillar” (no bolts):
On the p3 to the second cave:
The grass is always greener, and the ice on the right side of the Killer Pillar seemed better. It was not. One screw was placed for extra style points.
JR starting up the Killer Pillar:
JR midway on the pillar:
On the easy top out (p5):
On the way down, we stopped at the cave and took a minute to explore it.
Why you need to go to Valdez:
Sunlight refraction:
Feu de Glace:
JR bouldering in the cave:
Hung Jury
No doubt, the best chunk of ice I ever climbed.
From the AlaskaIceClimbing.com: "This route consists of scoops, umbrellas, and bells that extend from base to top. These formations occur as a result of the unusual wind patterns in the area of this route that blow upward. As a result, ice conditions can vary on this route and one may be required to take a circuitous route to the top."
Due to its “circuitous” nature and continuous spindrifts, we broke it up in two pitches.
JR heading up the p1:
Can you see him?
"The circuitous route". Although Robert Frost is not my favorite poet, I find embarking on the figurate path away from the mainstream somewhat rewarding:
Getting ready for the next pitch:
The real deal:
The last day it was heavily snowing again so we went skiing in the Mineral Creek.
Thanks to the local heli ski guides who pointed out Wellness Center where you can rent any kind of skis for free and for as long as you need. No Nomics though.
At the Mineral Creek:
Wowie Zowzie – 1 hr ski from Valdez:
Gear Notes:
Nomics and Cobras
Expect to make your own V-threads.
Approach Notes:
Alaska Airlines and clown car
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Looks like a nice day out, Oleg!
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Brand new with tags women's Marmot Dena jacket, one of the lightest synthetic insulated hooded jackets available on a market.
Size Medium, color: Gargoyle Grey. MSRP $190, asking $100.
Specs from the manufacturer:
- Ultralight Fabric
- Thermal R Eco Insulation
- Zippered Handwarmer Pockets - Soft Fabric to Warm Hands
- Invisible Zip Chest Pocket
- Lycra® Bound Cuffs
- Inside Zip Pocket - Secure Pocket to Store Small Items
- DriClime® Lined Chin Guard - Moisture Wicking Fabric Protects Your Face From the Zipper
- Elastic Draw Cord Hem - For Adjustability in Serious Weather
- Angel-Wing Movement™ - Allows Full Range of Motion in Arms so Jacket Doesn't Ride Up
Center Back Length (size M):
25.75in / 65.4cm
Overall Weight:
12.8 oz / 362.9 g
Main Material:
100% Nylon Double Rip 0.9 oz/ yd
Lining Material:
100% Polyester Embossed WR 1.8 oz/yd
Insulation Material:
Thermal R Eco
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Not too late to throw that last (very cool) pic in the photo contest is it? Would make a nice alpine and/or scenic entry imo.
What do you think Nastia?
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It certainly would make for one of the best contenders if not for anything, but for its rock quality.
What an amazing rock, fantastic rock, so solid and clean! Just begging to be picked, and if you don't like its location, go ahead and move it around
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Brad and Nate, Portland, OR. They made it through the three gendarmes.
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Three 30 m raps should be all that's required (though maybe one more over the schrund).
What he said - if planning on skiing the right gully aka "5".
You might wanna bring some gear to rap off (KB/angles - as the ice might not be your best option)
These guys http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=966443 climbed and skied NE face - 50 deg snow with no raps required.
My personal preference would be to climb NF and ski down Cooper Spur:
[video:youtube]
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Vitaliy on the Ravine, Hood.
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Sunset on Mt. Robson, Canadian Rockies
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Hi Rafal
.Thanks for the input. I will be there too next week and was curious about the recent warming trend.
What are our chances of getting into the Ghost in the Prius with studded tires? Too "adventurous"?
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Yep, I saw that and we had already bailed on the BS idea, Brian.
Heading to WA instead, looks better up there for a change.
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Works from my ancient Mac:
[video:vimeo]59181866
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Next time, Cameron.
How is Copenhagen treating you?
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what if all that frozen water that IS up there is just straight up fat bomber ice??
Yeah, I wish that was the case. A recon needed. May be, Ivan
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Thanks, Ben.
Not much snow on the gendarmes and not much rime either, hmmm..
Liberty Ridge Advice?
in Mount Rainier NP
Posted
These three were not that lucky though: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/616247/page/1#Post616247
BTW, welcome back, Dan!