TarHeelEMT

Are you doing Sulphide Glacier? My buddy and I are doing that route, but hopefully summiting on Sunday.

Gotta agree with ya on this one J... I clove directly from my knot to the anchor - its the fastest and seems like the least complicated way. Plus, there is no extra gear required. Using a clove hitch, it's also fairly easy to adjust the length of the rope available without ever having to unclip.

Never actually thought that one out, but you're right.

Also remember, if you tie it shut while on glacier, then hike to a lower, warmer elevation... Boyle's Law is a bitch.

Me too

I remember being at REI to pick up a few biners and some slings. The salesman asked if I was planning to use them for climbing (WTF?), to which I replied yes. He then said that I should only use locking biners for climbing, proudly stating that this is what he does. I didn't really know what to say in response, so I just sort of grunted and walked away.

Can't wait. I should be up there next week.

From what I gather, it's a good idea to have a pair of tools like the flys that are good for technical climbing but also are good for "plunging." Hopefully we'll get some folks more experienced with technical snow and ice here to weight in.

I had a similar question not long ago and was able to get some input: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/880685/Second_Ice_Tool#Post880685

How long is it? Basically, will it accommodate someone 6'4"?

I'll be up there the same weekend. Seven mile hike to get to the Coleman? That sucks.

Great pictures, by the way.

How are things on the summit pyramid? Does the loose snow still on it make it relatively sketchy?

We should go climbing together sometime. Of course, my last four trips to Moore's Wall have been canceled due to rain, and the one planned for this Sunday is headed that way quickly.

Cool. Might do that instead of Eldorado.

It all depends on context. At crag climbs, it's usually because the leader was a dumbass, and he should usually have to pay for it. I'm also really cool with the 50/50 split, depending on personalities.

I'd be curious to know as well. Also, anybody know of a moderate rock route in the area that will be climbable in May? I was looking at Eldo needle, but my understanding is that it will have too much snow still on it to be safe. Looking for something in the 5.4-5.5 range. My partner has never really rock climbed before, and I'd like to take him up something that's easy and fifth class.

If you're bringing a second rope for rappelling, wouldn't you just want to use twin ropes?

I read the first couple and the last couple. No, I haven't done genepires' idea, but conceptually it's good. Guessing from your title that you're always a dick?

Genepires' suggestion is a good one. Also, is the rope new? New ropes slide quite a bit more than ones with a little bit of wear.

Phew, not sure I could afford the Quarks. I'm pretty much just abusing my financial aid package to support my climbing habit. I think I'll probably go with one of Jared's two recommendations for the moderate alpine terrain, since I'm not really looking at climbing anything incredibly lengthy or technical, plus it's more within my budget. Thanks guys.

Thanks Pete. I've thought about Banff and just might do it. I say the Cascades just because I can use this place as a resource for climbing partners. Know of anything equivalent for Banff? Dane - I've got a very basic straight-shafted Grivel with an adze that I picked up several years ago.

Thanks jared.

Maybe nothing? I'm not exactly from the area. There are a few in Nelson's Select where it is listed as a recommendation. Don't have it with me at the moment, but it's in there. I'm not limiting myself to the Cascades, per se - I would like to find something this summer that features some degree of difficult ice.

So... background: Trad climber making the jump to alpine. Did a month-long NOLS mountaineering course and spent a week with Alpine Ascents on their intermediate mountaineering course. I'm coming up on my last ever summer break and intend to spend most of it in the Cascades climbing and living out of my truck to get as good at alpine climbing as I can. Other than some basic practice ice climbing, I haven't really had an opportunity to use two tools, although this summer I definitely anticipate climbing routes where two tools will be a must. So... a few questions: My standard ice axe paired with a specialized ice tool is probably the best combo for alpine climbing, correct? I saw this: ice tool It's well-reviewed, on sale, and seems like it would fit well in the ice axe/ice tool pairing. Is this a good buy? Does it make sense to just buy one of the ice tool, or is it short-sighted to just buy one? If I get into more technical ice, I'll definitely want two of the same design, so would it be wise to buy 2 or instead get one that isn't being discontinued?