TarHeelEMT

Cool. Thanks. We're definitely playing it conservatively. I've got a reasonable amount of experience and am confident in my movement, but my partner is still learning how to move in the mountains, so I am anticipating running a lot of protection.

Excellent, that's what I was hoping to hear. I'm told by a guide friend that snow cover will make my rock protection pretty much useless on those climbs. Can ya'll (guess where I'm from?) confirm that for me? My partner and I are bringing six pickets between us to protect the snow-covered areas. Should that be enough? Is it worth bringing more than a couple ice screws? I've got a 22cm for v-threads and a 16cm "just in case."

What are conditions typically like on those mountains in late May? I'm going to be in NCNP for the last week of May and would like to attempt them. I'm making a move from trad climbing to alpine and have a handful of alpine trips under my belt, but all of it is with later season climbs in July and August. How much snow is there going to be, and will it present any particular challenges that wouldn't be discussed in most of the guidebooks? Also, I'm not a skier. Is movement with just boots and crampons going to be feasible that early in the season?

I'm planning a trip to Shuksan, Baker, and El Dorado soon, and I'm trying to find a more comprehensive guidebook than the one I have. Which of Beckey's guidebooks covers those mountains? Are there any other books worth looking at for those mountains?

How is the sabertooth for all-purpose? It's one of the ones I was looking at.

Hey, I'm relatively new to the sport and have thus far been getting by on borrowed crampons, but I'd like to go ahead and get my own. I'm a little hesitant to buy based on reviews, because so many of the models require an extender bar to fit my boots (size 13). Any advice for an all-around crampon for folks with big feet?