Steve Roberts

Any guesses on how long this route will stay in (without a headache of crevasse navigation like later in the summer)? I was hoping to do it in July this year...

Perfect - Thanks Chris!

Where is the rocky right variation in this photo? to the right of the climbers bag?

Hope I don't catch too much shit for digging this up... I have a near new pair of Freney XT I am trying to make work on my foot How do these boots compare, size wise (and where) compared to the Nepal EVO? I have the Nepal EVO as well, and it fits me well, but the scarpa I get heel lift, even with orthotics and using several overhand knots as I lace the boots. Anyone remember these boots?

What do you have remaining?

Thanks for the info! We went for it but didn't know about the advanced permit vs first come first serve. We arrived 7:30am Saturday and all 6 permits for this side were taken. We camped at Lake Anne, made for a long day 2. Unfortunately didn't do the SE ridge because I was concerned about wet rock after some rain and the summit pyramid being in the fog the entire morning until 7-8am or so. However if we waited till later in the morning we could have done it, by the time we topped out of the gully a guide and client had done the ridge, leaving at 8am from the base. They encountered wet rock

Ah that's disappointing - especially since I was hoping for a dry summit pyramid to do the SE rib...

I am planning on doing this route this weekend - but the weather calls for 30% chance of rain Saturday- around the same time I would on the trail to the chimneys. Anyone with experience with the forecast want to chime in - is it still worth it to try out?

Thanks - I enjoyed your report

Awesome report! why will it be more difficult to pass the upper seracs?

Anyone get on the ridge this long weekend?

Did you get a good look at the North Ridge route? Or any zoom pictures?

Excellent info, thanks! It sounds like its a balance between icy conditions and glacier navigation as the dates get closer to the end of summer. Ill keep checking for trip reports as it gets closer to being in prime shape!

I read a few trip reports from years past and most people seem to climb the north ridge May-June/Early July. Summitpost also mentioned that it's iciest from May-June. Has anyone heard of any recent reports on the North Ridge? Or predictions when it may become prime shape? Thanks in advance!