t_rutl

i'm going to second the notion for a Hilleberg and prefer the Nallo GT. also check out the GoLite Valhalla 2+ ( http://www.golite.com/Product/proddetail.aspx?p=SH6137&s=1 )...very light and i really enjoy the tent...i'm a little over 6' 3" so need a roommy tent and the GoLite has the length to it...i find it similar to the BD stuff and you could cram a 3rd in should you need to...plus i like the dual vestibules

airtech evo good choice my man! pair it with a Grivel Matrix Light Hammer and you're solid and not even weighted down!! both have a good swing are great for plunging and both about 500 grams of no frills climbing bliss

Petzl Altios comfy, light and durable http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/verticality/helmets/mountaineering-and-climbing-helmets/altios

brilliant! i especially like the shot of the axe head in the alpenglow

AND completed the London Marathon...that dude's a stud hands down...

15 Deg will get you through your spring, summer, fall and some winter mountaineering here in the Cascades no prob...it'll work for backpacking but be quite warm for sure...a 30 deg would be better and lighter...for a Denali endevaur or higher altitude winter pursuits the 0 would get your through but in my opinion a -20 deg would be better...not much more weight and will get you through more situations...if those are going to be fewer and farther between than a backpacking trip...i'd keep the 15 degree and sell/trade the 0 for a 30...buy the -20 down the road should you need it!!

Well done! Eldorado is a beaut!

that slide area got the heart pumping more than the summit...you know that giant slab that peeled off? we were a few hours behind that when it happened on Memorial Day... smart move my man and well done...the weather is looking to chill a bit so giver hell again in week or two!!

RMI, American Alpine Institute, Alpine Ascents, Mountain Madness...they all have some great courses and you will NOT regret taking one...I did AAI's (American Alpine Institute) 3 Day Glacier Skills/Crevasse course as the first thing when I started out and was prob the best thing I did...if the foundation aint built right the rest will be shakey... but yes...we'll see you on the trail!!

i know

from Minus 148 (first winter ascent of Denali)...good book and always worth learning from other mistakes!! - "The bareheaded Frenchman came bouncing alone and unroped with a big grin on his face...After all, Farine had more experience on glaciers than either of them had." - "Where he had expected to see Farine there was only an empty glacier." - "There was no movement of pupils; no reaction. There was no pulse. The face was purplish. George pronounced him dead." While roping up can be a nuisance sometimes it's good not to get complacent...even if you you travel glaciers a thousand and one times never breaking through or falling it only takes once...

Brutal...

Eldorado, Klawatti, Sahale, Boston...that whole area is great late season Baker & Shuksan would be fine adventures as well that time of year...just be solid on your glacier travel!! Even Adams would get you up high...long approach but Glacier would be easier to get to that time of year as well. Enjoy!

they're back??? wow...i gave up on ever seeing an issue again brilliant!

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=47261 there are a few links out there...it was through the yellow band for fixed lines

they bolted Everest this season and i find that sad... any portion of a mountain "could" be bolted but imo takes away from an alpine experience...it's not unreasonable to think there could be some, but it would be a rare case ya do so never bank on it unless it's established beta...even if there are some reported prepare for them to be unusable and have plan B...miles from camp and at the crux of a climb who wants to find a busted anchor and have nothing to use as an alternate??? Shuksan has plenty of spots to throw a rap sling around...was up Memorial day and some are still left...but as was stated make sure your team has whatcha need to get to the rock...keeping the horse before the cart so to speak...but Shuksan is a beautiful peak and i'm sure you'll enjoy it regardless!! -T

well done!

Mt. Erie outside of Anacortes. Plenty of low-mid 5th routes with bolts up top and a short jont to the bottom...good learning enviroment...killer view...can be busy when it's nice...tourist spot due to the viewpoint...climbing guide available at the Lake Erie Grocery

we hoofed it outa there onto the ridge in about 2 1/2 hrs...the snow was good though...once on the ridge is when the fun started...3 hrs of post-holing across it, up over the notch and onto the Sulphide...

Fuji FinePix F30...taken it on all my climbs since i got it...pretty compact...quite durable...takes great pics (check my TR's for quality) but the batt is money...thing lasts like nobody's business

shuksan was pretty dang mellow

R.I.P. But good god...300 successful summits already this year? and only 5 fatalities? that beast used to be pushing 10% deaths to summits...

North Ridge or Colman Headwall on Baker, North Face of Shuksan, take a more difficult line up Adams Glacier on Adams...those are a couple that will run you into situations where a second tool would be useful if not necessary...earlier in the season the better but they've been done as late as August if you can track one down...grab a Grivel Matrix light...pair it with an Air Tech Evo or BD Venom and you'll be solid...or even your straight shaft axe will do

didn't set any but for a sling around a well positioned rock on a sketch spot...there were deadman pits where pickets have been set but I didn't lay any...we just simulclimbed it for efficiency but the snow is still good enough for pickets so that'd prob be your best bet good luck and lemme know how she treated ya!

the vis was crazy monday wasnt it?! good job doin' work