Alpinsanity

I have this cam. The sling says Wild Country. It's an off-set. Can't find it online. Anyone know what it's called, and how old it is roughly? Got it from a guy who got it from a friend.

I still have a copy of "50" if anyone is looking for one. PM me with an offer if interested.

I've got a copy of "50 Climbs" in pretty good shape, if anyone wants to make me an offer on it.

I just finished pressure washing my 60 degree roof. Used an ascender, with a prusik underneath it. That way, is was easy to ascend and, to go down, I had a back up while releasing the ascender to lower it. Worked great. Always had a slackless device ready to catch a slip. Hope this helps.

EXACTLY!

I loaned my partner a pair of lightweight shell pants. He proceeded to shred the side of the leg open with his crampon. Missed his skin, fortunately. Taped it up for the rest of the trip, and when we got back, offered me a down vest as compensation. Since he had two of them, I abliged. I think the barter/trade system works well for these situations. Whatever a person has to offer. And, if they have nothing, well then that's okay too. The partnership is always worth more than the gear.

I'll make the best of it. Thanks again for the beta.

Thanks for the info. How long were you on the ridge itself? What do you feel it went at? It's such a short approach, and such a long line, that I might have to check it out for myself. Oh yeah....I am blue collar.

"The route is enjoyable, and generally sound." Beckey quote. Was it really that bad? I recently posted, asking for beta on the NE ridge. Didn't get much of a response. Now I see why. I do have a strange passion for veggie climbing, but the pine needly dirt sounds ghastly. I am having second thoughts, although I did somehow enjoy the standard route on the Main Peak of Garfield. What kind of pro would you recommend?

I've taken a real good, up close look at it. Looks fun, just haven't heard anything about anyone being up there. Would love to join you for a run at it. PM me if you're interested in another partner. Experienced, of course.

I had the good fortune of meeting Jimmy Hinkhouse and Scott Hall in 1993. In 1994, had a failed Rainier summit attempt with Jim, but a couple months later, summited Rainier for the first time, with Scott as leader of my rope team. Great guys. I'll never forget 'em.

Has anyone here climbed the Northeast Ridge of Sperry Peak, next to Vesper? If anyone has, I would love to hear about it. Thanks.

Wow! Now that would be the buy. Wish I could afford it.

Very impressive. Really nice TR. My vote is also for Nooksack.

I know someone who was arrested with an ice axe. ...for "brandishing" a deadly weapon. Couldn't remain calm in a heated situation.

I also don't feel that two more bolts are going to take anything away from this already peppered line. Oh, and B movies are the shit. I'm going.

Thanks for the conditions report, and the simul-beta. Sounds like the way to go, definitely. Correction: "Plenty of slings and biners" But...aren't they considered gear? Anyone else interested? Send me a PM.

Thanks kevbone. I also heard that you can descend the ridge itself. Is that feasible...or even worth it?

Exactly the kind of response I expected. Seriously, I don't personally know anyone that's been up the thing. Does it suck, or what? This is the first info I have asked for here. Go easy on me.

With all the talk about this route, I really think I need to go check it out for myself. Who's with me? Someone who has been up it already would be a plus...obviously. But anybody's welcome. I have been up Garfield twice before, and the face looks great. I have 14 years of climbing behind me (mostly alpine), and have plenty of gear. I live about 15 min. from North Bend, off of I-90. Beta is also appreciated. Thanks.

Climbed at Banks a few years back. Dirty, but great stuff there. No route book, no anchors to speak of. We cleaned and pioneered a thin crack route with a small mossy slab crux that was around 10c. Super fun. Didn't DWP though, due to fall hazards. Belayed right out of the boat. Named it "Mossra". Ended the day with 60' cliff jumping. Good times.

I see my pic is too large. My apologies. First time posting one on here. What is the ideal size for this site?

Here's my shot of upper JPG in late July 1998. Check the bergschrund/crevasse at the top. We climbed down into it, then up the other side. Which was quite a bit taller, and almost vertical on the left . Overhanging on the right. Sweet. Sorry for the poor quality. Scanned it from a standard photo.

My closet call was just after crossing an ice bridge to gain the base of the entrance chute to Mt. Stuart's North Ridge. I was on steep, hard but crumbly rock, and could not move fast at all. Fortunately, I heard it before it got to me. A super loud whizzing sound (like a UFO in bad sci-fi), really strange. All I could do was duck and hang on. It went right over my head, about 6' up. About the size of a basketball at least. Could have taken my head off. Scared the hell outta me! Needless to say, gaining the ridge was a relief. Out of harms way for the duration of the climb. Why do we do this? Sorry for steering away from the topic, but uncontrolled hazards are always fun to talk about.

Any routes you are pioneering are much easier to be cleaned when wet. Cock push-ups? One is all you need.