Doug Shepherd

Hah! Not for sale I'm afraid. Although I am on the search for the next pair of ugly pants now after using green and blue pants for the last two AK trips.

Because of big toe surgery (thanks genetics!) and continued Alaska climbing (thanks John!) I need to clear out some gear to help pay the bills. All prices OBO and buyer pays shipping from 87544. black diamond cyborg crampons - SOLD heavily used. Honestly best for a beater or loaner crampon. Comes with four other used front points. photo #1 camp quartz CR3 harness - SOLD size large barely used. extra harness lying around for friends. photo #1 mammut ajungilak altitude 3-season sleeping bag (5F) - SOLD size long (195 cm) This a great down bag that has a Pertex Endurance shell with 800 fill power down. It's the previous generation of the design, so it's a bit different from the model on the Mammut website. Always kept in a storage bag. One small repair on the spindrift collar with clear repair tape. photo #1 photo #2 photo #3 SOLE softec response footbeds - $20 size US12 unused. Awesome footbeds, I just found the gray ones work better for me. photo #1 photo #2 kayland 6001 ice boots- SOLD size US13 decent condition. I used these boots heavily and it shows. Lots of seam grip around the rand, worn down soles, but they'll still take crampons and keep you warm. Come with green super feet. photo #1 photo #2 photo #3 photo #4 kayland ice dragon fruit boots - SOLD size US 13 good condition. I like these boots, but again I can't quite get my foot in them after surgery. They come with an extra set of front points, heel spurs, and the back pieces. I have seam gripped the rands to keep them from coming apart. The pull tabs on one inner boot broke, but it doesn't make a difference. photo #1 photo #2 photo #3 scarpa phantom 6000 double boots - $200 size US 13 Good condition. These are the original red Phantom 6000 boots with Intiution liners (never molded) that are beefier than the current model, but also warmer. I've used these on some cold big rigs and always been really happy with them. I need a bigger toe box after the surgery and changed boot models because of that. photo #1 photo #2 photo #3 scarpa vapor lace climbing shoes - $50 size EU45 used for two pitches. I love these shoes, but there is no way that I'm going to be able to wear them after my surgery. photo #1 photo #2 photo #3 rab cirrus windtop - $40 size large great condition. this is a replacement for another windbreaker that I thrashed while climbing. comes with small stuffsack. photo #1 rab boreas pull-over - $60 size large great condition. stretchy, abrasion resistant, and stuffs into it's own pocket. Awesome cool weather running or rock climbing hoody. photo #1 arc'teryx squamish windshell - $50 size large good condition. Half-zip version. I've used this shell a bunch. Packs up small into it's own pocket and just works. photo #1 patagonia dimension jacket - $75 size large good condition. one hole in the mesh backing of the pocket. made with EPIC-treated fabric (like the BD tents), so super waterproof for a soft-shell. photo #1 photo #2 rab baltoro alpine guide jacket - $100 size large great condition. older version with powershield in the arms/body and breathable powerstretch pro panels underarm. photo #1

Nice job guys! It looked great last week from the valley, psyched you got on it. Those plateau's are horrible in a white-out, aye? Glad you made it back safe and sound.

Yes. I climbed with a friend last weekend who had fitted the new pommels onto the old Nomic. Said it wasn't hard at all, I didn't press for details because I don't have Nomics.

The face fabric is the choice of the company who constructed the jacket. You can bond eVent (just like Goretex) to any number of different styles of face fabric. I put a bunch of holes in my eVent jacket chimney climbing as well. It sucks but that isn't eVent's fault. It's my fault for taking an extremely lightweight hard shell up a chimney. You're right to blame the manufacturer (in your specific examples, Westcomb and Lowe Alpine) for the face fabric choice, not eVent.

What exactly wore out on your friends' jacket? The membrane or the face fabric?

Wow, that was quick. Off to a new home!

I have four Cascade and one Quad pick for the old Quarks (I think those names are right? The B and T picks) that I'm not using anymore. They are very worn, but I'm sure some handy work with a file or a trip to Dane will make them usable for a bit longer. At worst, they are beater picks for dry-tooling. Anyways, whoever PMs me first their address gets them for free, I'll just toss them in the mail.

Have you been on Home Field Advantage?

Have you been to that climb? There is NO way that falling ice would of hit Bryan even if the whole climb came down. That perspective definitely doesn't give a good idea of how sheltered the belay is. Falling on bolted mixed climbs is pretty damn common. Personally, I wouldn't want to fall on that particular climb, but have done my sharing of falling off bolted roofs when trying to pull onto the ice. That said, John needs to stop falling on pure ice climbs.

I have the Panasonic LX3 and it is an awesome camera! The HD video is takes is quite good, but is 720p @ 24 fps and you can't zoom while shooting. All of the climbing videos that I've made this season have been shot on one. The lens is the best thing about this camera and I definitely consider it a great point and shoot camera that happens to take decent video. That said, I broke down and picked up a Sanyo VPC-CG20 for 180 bucks. It shoots both 1080p @ 30 fps and 720p @ 60 fps, has a 5x optical zoom and so far seems really nice. The best feature? It weighs about 6 oz with battery and SD card. It is part of Sanyo's "dual camera" line, which shoot both photos and videos. The photos are 10MP, but are no where near the quality of the LX3. If you aren't too worried about publishing your photos and just want them for the web, etc... and want to shoot video, definitely check out the whole dual camera range from Sanyo, there are higher end models that have better sensors and more features.

The Monster 7.8mm twins/doubles are hands down the best set of skinny ropes I've ever used. I've owned or heavily used offerings from Beal, Petzl, Bluewater, Mammut, and Sterling. I am amazed at how much abuse I was able to put my first set through before I had to buy new ones, which I'm using now. The first set survived 2.5 ice/mixed seasons (average about 70 days a season), a 6 week trip to South America, a week trip to Alaska, and two alpine rock seasons. The dry coating is very very good. I got them stuck (in a pouring waterfall) rapping the sixth pitch of Broken Hearts in Cody and had to walk around to free them. They had almost completely dried out by the time we finished the walk off. I don't have any experience with the single cords, but highly recommend the twin/doubles.

The knowledge that Mark shared is hard won. No matter what you read on the internet, you need to get out and slowly strip your system down to what works. Steve was rescued in about an hour because he: 1. Had his cell phone 2. Was on Mt. Temple where there is cell phone recption 3. Was in Canada where the rescue is unbelievable 4. Had a heads up partner in Bruce Again, here's to Steve's recovery, that is what's important.

I had avoided posting in this thread, but mentioning Steve House... He had a really bad fall this past week on Mt. Temple. Here's to his recovery!

You picked two of the easiest approaches (for major routes) and also trade routes which are extremely fat this season. There is definitely big adventure to be had in the Southfork! Glad you had a good time! Head back and try out some of the harder routes next season, there's lots to do!!